HELP!! My dsm sounds like a Subaru WRX

[shadowdrag]

OK, I'm out of ideas. My car sounds like a Subaru WRX, it will not go anywhere. It will start up and idle, but if you drive it. It will stutter, back fire and die. I did all the research I can, and got nothing. I replace Power Trans and coil pack with used ebay dsm parts and still nothing. Cylinder 4 and 2 plugs pulled during idling and no sparks, pull 3 and 1 and engine lowers down.

Both coils were tested.

Coil 1: (mine) = primary= 0.000 Ohms and secondary = 12.5 and 12.6 kOhms
Coil 2: (ebay) = primary= 0.000 Ohms and secondary = 12.9 and 13.0 kOhms

Both power trans are working good during 1.5 volt test.

The manuals just state that if the reading are not within the specified value, replace the ignition coil, but the manual does not say if both values differ, replace..

So it does seems that I am within specs, I'm I right.


Thanks for any inputs.

 

[Jeff822]

Check for loose/blown off intercooler pipes and holes in couplers, i know when my intercooler pipe came loose and didn't blow off all the way its sounded similar to a Rex, thats the only thing i can think of off the top of my head.

 

[shadowdrag]

Check for loose/blown off intercooler pipes and holes in couplers, i know when my intercooler pipe came loose and didn't blow off all the way its sounded similar to a Rex, thats the only thing i can think of off the top of my head.

All holes and pipes are secure and tight and there is no boost leak also. Any others.

Thx

 

[drivemusicnow]

You should be proud of how it sounds!

j/k anyway, do a compression test.

Just trust me and try it.

Take pictures of the spark plug tips and post them here, keeping cyl numbers and sparkplugs together.

 

[shadowdrag]

You should be proud of how it sounds!

j/k anyway, do a compression test.

Just trust me and try it.

Take pictures of the spark plug tips and post them here, keeping cyl numbers and sparkplugs together.

Its a brand new motor with only 1k miles on it. Compression last checked while fully function on all cylinder under normal temp= 180 across.

Just check it yesterday and cylinder 4 and 2 went to 175 and 180 in 3 and 1. There is no spark coming out of cylinder 4 and 2 while the engine is idling and aslo engine has no reactions.

 

[brenden3010]

Thats why. The car makes that noise if a cylinder doesnt fire. I know a guy with a 240 whose car sounded like that due to a bad spark. Make sure the spark isnt arching through the rubber piece that goes around the plug- you will be able to see a faint burn mark on it. This happens if you spill oil around the boots or get water in there.

 

[shadowdrag]

All sparkplugs, wires are all replaced and pulse on each injectors are good. I also swap out my 550's and put back my stock 450's and still the same issue.

 

[MagikalMexikan]

I'm going to take a guess and say that you might have bent valves by the sounds of it, but it does not seem possible that this might be the issue since you said that you just acquired the new motor correct? Also where did you buy the motor? Is it used? Hopefully I'm mistaken because bent valves are not fun to replace nor are they cheap.

 

[shadowdrag]

I'm going to take a guess and say that you might have bent valves by the sounds of it, but it does not seem possible that this might be the issue since you said that you just acquired the new motor correct? Also where did you buy the motor? Is it used? Hopefully I'm mistaken because bent valves are not fun to replace nor are they cheap.

The dealership install new cylinder head and new short block. That was what I was thinking also, bent valves. But how can this happen, the motor is not even broken in yet. It turns on and idles, no clicking sounds, or ticking sounds, just that when I give it a rev, it sounds like a WRX and back fire and die.

 

[drivemusicnow]

If you have good compression numbers on those cylinders, it most likely is not bent valves.

YOu already found the issue, somewhere in the sparkplug system you're losing the spark in cylinders 1 and 4. you tested the coil and it seems fine, so what about the resistor pack, or ECU?

 

[shadowdrag]

If you have good compression numbers on those cylinders, it most likely is not bent valves.

YOu already found the issue, somewhere in the sparkplug system you're losing the spark in cylinders 1 and 4. you tested the coil and it seems fine, so what about the resistor pack, or ECU?

I was reading thru the whole Clinton and narrow it down to the resistor pack. I don't know where this is located? The ECU is fine, I even swat it out with the stock ECU and motor sounds the same. I was thinking maybe a faulty fuel injector relay or some relay.

 

[shadowdrag]

Just wasted my time taking out the resistor pack. Tested it and it was good. What else??????

 

[oldman]

Swap coils and see if the problem moves to 2 and 3.

 

[eldiabloz13]

well my 91 tsi did this. It was the plugs and wires. Also from venting the BOV.

 

[shadowdrag]

Swap coils and see if the problem moves to 2 and 3.

I swap the coils and nothing happens. While the engine is at idle, I can unplug all three sparkplug wire straight out from the coil pack and nothing happens, but when I unplug number one from the coil pack, engine lowers.

From unpluggin the wire out of the coil pack, sparks are all blue. When I unplug from cylinder 4 no sparks at the engine but sparks at the coil pack.

I'm about had it. I did all and nothing is working.

Plugs, plug wires are all been replace at this time. Remeber this is a new engine, so all boost is turn back down to 7psi.

 

[absolute_DSM]

Swap coils and see if the problem moves to 2 and 3.

x2..

 

[da_reeseboy]

Did you replace the plugs and wires after it started firing wrong, or is this a problem that has shown up after new plugs and wires? You might try putting the old plugs and wires and plugs on if they were ok.

- Jesse

 

[pikul21gsx]

I'll keep reading your thread, i have a similar problem, the 2 cilinders on the midle don't work, i dont know what is it, the coil doesn't receive the signal for those two cilinders, i change my coil for a brand new and still doesnt work, i also change my power transfer unit to a brand new cause that was giving me trouble las time, i have no idea what's wrong, im starting to think that is my ECU, good luck with your problem dude.

 

[shadowdrag]

I'll keep reading your thread, i have a similar problem, the 2 cilinders on the midle don't work, i dont know what is it, the coil doesn't receive the signal for those two cilinders, i change my coil for a brand new and still doesnt work, i also change my power transfer unit to a brand new cause that was giving me trouble las time, i have no idea what's wrong, im starting to think that is my ECU, good luck with your problem dude.

Yes, thats exactly whats happening. My cylinder 4 and 2 doesn't receive the signal to the motor. All else checks out find, not wires, not coil, not power trans, not resistor pack, and also not the ecu.

The motor runs, but motor jerks when timing cuts out at everytime I try to drive it. When I pull the plugs, every new plug that I've put in for less then 2minutes gets saturate wit gas or oil. It turns out dark, and also, when I go to pull the plugs out, smoke comes right out of the well.

 

[drivemusicnow]

Yes, thats exactly whats happening. My cylinder 4 and 2 doesn't receive the signal to the motor. All else checks out find, not wires, not coil, not power trans, not resistor pack, and also not the ecu.

The motor runs, but motor jerks when timing cuts out at everytime I try to drive it. When I pull the plugs, every new plug that I've put in for less then 2minutes gets saturate wit gas or oil. It turns out dark, and also, when I go to pull the plugs out, smoke comes right out of the well.

Well thats a bit of a change to the story... If the plugs are fouling that quickly, something else is the problem...

Are you sure that your keydiver chip is correct? ie, corrected for injetors and such? I don't really want to suggest it, but if you're fouling the plugs that quickly, you're probably going to have to pull the head to see if you have an effed headgasket, or possibly bad valve seals.

There is now way that that much oil should be in the cylinder. What is your oil pressure? Also, try pulling off one of your FMIC couplers and see if there is a bunch of oil in there. That will indicate/disprove a turbo seal leak.

 

[jonk00000]

You Have The Plug Wires To The Coil Pack Backwards !!!!!!

 

[shadowdrag]

You Have The Plug Wires To The Coil Pack Backwards !!!!!!

No its correct. I have this set up for like a year now, I'm pretty sure its not the ECU or backward wiring. But yeah, once I put in a new plug and idle the car. 2 minutes later, plug pulls out dark and oily.

I think something is wrong with the valves. The first thing that happen to my car when I first got it back from the dealership was P303. Plugs were pull out oily also. Some one told me that it was normal and now this.

 

[andymoraitis]

Jerry,

I know this sounds like a stupid thing to check, but did you swap plugs 1 and 4 and then 2 and 3 on the coil pack? The chip has CAS inversion but the wires still need to be swapped on the coil to work properly.

Just a thought,

Andy

 

[shadowdrag]

Jerry,

I know this sounds like a stupid thing to check, but did you swap plugs 1 and 4 and then 2 and 3 on the coil pack? The chip has CAS inversion but the wires still need to be swapped on the coil to work properly.

Just a thought,

Andy

Yeah, plug wire are correctly placed, (outside in, inside out) just like how you tought me. I'm thinking that the cause is from having bad valve clearance, my boost gauge vaccum is stuck at -12 while car is idling. Ever since I got the car back, its misfire once a while. I drove it back to the dealership and they just say to drive it a little more. Anyways, I about had it, I'm towing it to the dealership today. I'll keep you all posted.

 

[siceclipse]

are your plugs gapped correctly???
.028-.032???