a few engine building questions.

[pachood]

long story short, i went through a few "long blocks" which turned into scrap metal. so i decided to do it right and build my motor from the ground up and wont bother with a high miles donor motor and get screwed...again.
i just brought everything in for machine work.
-i had a touch of rust on my inner 2 cylinders, (since this motor had the injectors sold off, with no hood covering them..about a gallon of water in the pan) i went to check on my stuff today, and he honed the block, but didnt completely rid it of a little rust pitting in the cylinders..he said they SHOULD NOT be a problem..but has anyone ever had ANY problems with..just a little, that you can feel?
-i had my crank polished..nothing fancy
-block inspected and didnt find any problems..
-also, tomorrow, my head job should be finished..just the normal with decking.
i have EVERYTHING to rebuild my motor, mitsu main bearings, acl rod bearings, mitsu rings, yadda yadda.(mitsu water pump, belts, tensioner etc) BUT i didnt go with a fabulous head gasket. i went to auto value and bought, well, what they had. same with the head bolts. is it super important to go with a multi layer head gasket and arp studs? this will set me back pretty far on a college, low on job hours budget, but if its a must, the build will just have to be pushed back further.
im not planning on building this thing to make insane numbers, but i know some day when im out of school and have a little more money i will, and why not do it right the first time? ( i tried to stay away, but i have a big 16g on the way already)

i have been reading as much as possible and doing as much searching as i can, but i still come up with questions before i get buried in more problems then i can afford. i want my galant to run like a champ for as long as i can.

my buddy rebuilt his 6g72 tt motor, but i have never done a full rebuild myself, i have done as much reading around here as i can find, but ANY advice, or anything is highly appreciated..even pointing me in the right direction to parts you think i may REALLY need.

thanks for anyones help!

 

[AgntorangeDSM]

this may or may not help really but its my 2 cents i guess, i just got done rebuilding my motor and its only a stock 16g but i went with a 200 dollar headgasket by perma tourqe and also put arp's on. i did all of this even though its over kill but think about it, your in there you may as well get it done and done right the first time. now if i upgrade theres is no doubt in my mind or questioning that the motor will handle it.

 

[absolute_DSM]

rust = the devil.

I know for sure you dont want any pitting on your cylinder walls. Thatll cause a compression issue right away on a turbo,

Sounds like youre tryin to go cheap on this.

Im not gonna be the only one to recommend saving your money. If youre still into engines in the future then hop on the bandwagon. Your future is more important than your want for speed RIGHT now.... just my thoughts...

 

[anubis]

buy a cheap beater car that's good on gas. i had to rebuild two 4g63's while i was in college because i wanted to have a DSM - not a good idea. i bought a geo prizm my senior year and was kicking myself for not buying one sooner. i have no desire whatsoever to modify it - other than free ricey stuff for the sheer entertainment value. i also get 40mpg and it's a four door so makes moving easy - although i think i could fit more in my dsm with the seat down and the hatch shelf out.

it definately sounds like you're getting into an expensive project here, but you're trying to be cheap. you might as well get an mls evo headgasket if you're going to run a 16g - you can get one for under $100. you're definitely going to need an overbore which also means you're probably going to need new oversized pistons. arp headstuds are proven. are they necessary for a simple rebuild? probably not. you'll probably be ok with the ones you got as long as you torque them down properly to spec. did you plan on replacing all your timing components? you're going to want to do that too.

 

[FORMONTOYA]

buy a cheap beater car that's good on gas.

I'll definitely agree with this. If you're modding a car the first thing you should buy is a daily as projects last longer and cost more than expected, and after it's done, you're going to break the new "toy" at some point..........NOTHING BEATS A SECOND CAR.

I personally have a discrepancy with the use of the MLS gasket. Sure they can handle more boost, and if you need it.....you need it, but the OEM composite has carried many people well into the mid/high 20PSI range. Plus in using the MLS gasket the deck has to be damn near perfect to get a good seal whereas the composite is more forgiving of slight imperfections (plus it's cheaper too)...............

Your call.

DO NOT REUSE ANY OEM CRITICAL FASTENERS (head, main, rod bolts), THEY ARE TORQUE-TO-YIELD AND CAN NOT BE RE-USED ONCE TORQUED DOWN PROPERLY.

Replace all timing components, seals, bearings, oil pump. With the use of the 16G, ARPs are not critical, but are definitely nice to have..........if you decide to upgrade the turbo later (and who doesn't), you might wish you would have done it now. If you go with ARPs on the mains, make sure your machinist line bores it.

Get a shop manual!

That's my 0.02.

 

[pachood]

rust = the devil.

I know for sure you dont want any pitting on your cylinder walls. Thatll cause a compression issue right away on a turbo,

Sounds like youre tryin to go cheap on this.

Im not gonna be the only one to recommend saving your money. If youre still into engines in the future then hop on the bandwagon. Your future is more important than your want for speed RIGHT now.... just my thoughts...

well, im not REALLY trying to cheap it, i have a low budget, but i have been trying to get the best stuff i can..trust me..i'v probably had my galant (which had a timing issue ..bending exhaust side, bashing pistons..etc) that i havent driven sitting on jack stands for..oh i dont know 5 months while saving money/getting screwed over.

im NOT building this car to go fast NOW..i dont plan on taking it to the track (or abusing what so ever) til after summers out and im working full time...im not planning on doing anything "performance" til then..other then my act 2600 clutch that im starting to have second thoughts about..

i had a talk with the machinest when i picked up my motor today..who told me if i bought the head gasket there, it was a fel pro(all my parts are out at my buddies shop..heated shops=)..so i should be fairly safe there..im going to go pick up a set of arp head studs.

..i basically have a used car dealership out front..last year i put a new 420a in a avenger that had thrown a rod, so i sold it off and in the deal i got a 93 ranger thats been rolled..i barely dump enough money in it to change the oil..but it hauls my quad. i also have a 64 plymouth im trying not to tinker with til im done with all of this...

the galant WILL NOT be my daily driver.

i have EVERYTHING new from mitsubishi (other then the rod bearings) from the rings down to the oil pick up...like i said in the first post..all timing stuff, tensioner, belts and so on.