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2.3 stroker setup

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DSM97GST

15+ Year Contributor
66
0
Feb 28, 2004
cali, California
i have a 6 bolt 1990 eclipse gsx i got the 2.3liter stroker kit wiseco pistons eagle rods .20over i have the entire shortblock almost put together got all the clearance issues taken care of. and my man question is how important is a ported head in my case? what stage head should i get i want to get hks272 cams. my other mods include 650cc injectors, afc2, walbro 255lph,aeromotive fpr,balance shafts eliminated,act2600 clutch,fidanza flywheel,unorthodox crank pulley,hks electronic boost controller and tt magnus sheet metal intake and hks cam gears.
mods still to buy-slowboy front mount with blow thru setup gm 3inch mass air and translator, fp 3052 turbo with o2 housing and 44mm wastegate koyo radiator and a header. any thing else i should add water injection would be good and a small shot of nos

i just wanted to get an idea of what you experts think of this setup my goals are around 400whp and to be a daily driver and a bad ass street car. how much hp can my fuel setup support.let me know if im missing anything. thanks alot
 
I wouldn't worry so much about the porting as I would springs, valves (oversized preferably) guides, seals, and retainers. The porting will really not give you much benefit.

Great choice on turbo, IMO (and Jayrolla will disagree with me, as he did in the last thread that we discussed this in) but tuning a 400AWHP setup with an AFC and a MAF-T is going to be a pain. I would highly suggest going with DSMLink before drop the money on the MAF-T. If you still want to vent your bov, and feel that the MAS is too much of a restriction, then you can get that later.
 
and Jayrolla will disagree with me, as he did in the last thread that we discussed this in

You sure it was me, I hate the Maf-T. Im all about Dsmlink for anyone looking for more than 350whp. Safc is fine for 350 or under. Also I hate the gm-maf, I love the 2g maf and im looking into the evo maf. I would also reccomend dsmlink.
 
i have a 2g mass air laying around what does dsmlink do exactly will it allow me to vent to the atmosphere without a mass air or ?
 
In order to vent to the atmosphere (properly) you have to switch to a blow through setup (GM MAF-t that I know of) or a stand alone ECU (AEM) DSMLink is the way to go. If you get the GM MAF-t don't tune with it, just tune with the DSMLink. Or SAFC, the shop I take my car to is not fond of tuning with the MAF-t, and they have yet to lead me down the wrong path.
 
ok so ill get that stuff then tune with dsmlink or my afc2 the turbo im looking at is either the fp3052 or the fp3065 anybody have them?
 
One of my friends has a 2g GSX with a FP3052. I don't know the specs, beyond FP's website, but I do know how it sounds and feels when in the passenger's seat. It is awesome to say the least. From the outside when he gets on it, it is amazing.
 
I strongly advise against 650's on a 3052 or 3065. I'm marginal on the 50 trim with a stroker setup as I push close to 45 lbs/min at 25 psi with Comp 200's on 650's. That's on a stock 2G head and stock intake. I'd run 950's so you have room to grow into big boost without driving IDC's through the roof.

Considering that your cam choice isn't aggressive, save the money that you'd be spending on springs and retainers. It's not like you're running any of the FP "x" cams where the higher lift necessitates better head hardware. Also, you're only going to be revving this thing to 7200-7400 so it's not like you'll be overstressing the stock parts.

Your tuning solution needs some work. AFC's are garbage and the MAFT setup would do, but not as your only tuning device. If you want to use an MAFT to deal with the higher airflow the motor will be putting out, I'd pick up an EPROM ECU with a Keydiver chip. Have the chip mapped for an 11:1 A/F with lower timing so that you can still lean out a bit with the MAF-T and not get the timing too far out of range since injector compensation becomes a non-issue. You can buy a complete chip and EPROM ECU setup from DSM Chips for the same money as an AFC and have room to eventually grow into DSM Link. If you can spring from DSM Link now, that woudl be even better although you'll still need to pick up an EPROM ECU.

With respect to using a header, I don't think it's necessary. A cast ported 2G or SBR manifold will do fine and be more durable for more frequent driving. The 44mm wastegate is also overkill and a manifold mounted Tial 38mm will hold plenty of boost. I'd also save the pennies you'd spend on an EBC and pick up an MBC from someone like Buschur. Their MBC's are slick, work well and mount to the valve cover. Depending on how much boost you want to run, you can also run the maximum spring pressure in the Tial and then shim it with a couple of 2" flat washers. Mine holds 25 psi from 2nd to 5th gear with no boost controller and I only hook up the MBC when I'm looking for more than that.

To address the question about porting, a mild port and polish job will do fine. Strokers move much more air than a similarly equipped 2.0 so anything that will increase VE will help. The port work doesn't need to be overdone though as an excessive amount will actually reduce velocity. Just have everything cleaned up and you should be good to go.

Hope that helps,

Andy
 
thanks alot for all the info, i already have all the stuff except the cams,and all these mods still to buy-slowboy front mount with blow thru setup gm 3inch mass air and translator, fp 3052 turbo with o2 housing and 44mm wastegate koyo radiator and a header. any thing else i should add meth injection would be good and a small shot of nos. my plans are 20psi maybe a little more. i plan on buying dsmlink when i get enough money and eventually get the car dyno tuned somewhere in norcal? u think i should get 950s huh anyone want to buy my 650s
 
You don't need nitrous on that setup. The 3052 will spool plenty fast on a stroker, but I don't think you should limit yourself to 20 psi. You'll definitely want to ditch the idea of an undampened crank pulley since those are a no-no. Get an OEM harmonic balancer or a Fluidampr. Since you'll be running a 3052, I would recommend at least 850's, but you're going to tune with Link or a Keydiver then going larger doesn't hurt in case you upgrade to a larger turbo down the line. If you really only plan on running 20 psi though, 650's at base fuel pressure will support around 47 lbs/min maxed out and you may be OK for now. Log it once it's together and see.
 
I agree with ANDY. Get rid of the unorthodox crank pulley. It will only cause you problem in the very near future.

I know of two people that used the safc and broke the 500hp range. But, both of them had chipped eproms. One was chipped by Keydriver, and the other I am not sure. Both of them were using t67 from precision.

Other than that, it sounds like you heart is in the right place.
 
DSM97GST said:
thanks alot for all the info, i already have all the stuff except the cams,and all these mods still to buy-slowboy front mount with blow thru setup gm 3inch mass air and translator, fp 3052 turbo with o2 housing and 44mm wastegate koyo radiator and a header. any thing else i should add meth injection would be good and a small shot of nos. my plans are 20psi maybe a little more. i plan on buying dsmlink when i get enough money and eventually get the car dyno tuned somewhere in norcal? u think i should get 950s huh anyone want to buy my 650s


do some more reading, it sounds like your mixing honda performance with dsm performance with some of your goals here. You dont need some of the stuff you said.

Listen to what andy said he had some good points.
Why limit yourself at 650s, at least go with 850s.
And Nitrous is just another variable youll need to tune around and they
already told you tuning isnt so good with maft. If your just doing that to vent
then just dont go thru the trouble to get the gm maft and just vent.
Id run a evo8 mass if I were you, can read up to like 600hp. ( Which I plan to use. )
The eprom + keydiver chip is likely your best, cheapest, easiest option which is
something else ive done on my car. Now what compression is your pistons?
If you have anything too much over the stock 1g compression ratio you will be
dealing with some timing issues since 1gs have too much timing advance. Another reason
to get link and or a chip sooner to adjust that. I believe wisecos sell their pistons at a 8:8.1 ratio, much higher than stock 1g 7:8.1, I know an idiot who almost blew his engine
because he stroked it and put forged wiseco pistons ( 8:8.1 ) but didnt know that was the compression ratio and couldnt figure out why his 1g was knocking so much ( stock timing maps. ) Some stroker cams will really allow that engine to breathe, Id say thats a mustif your trying to get the full stroker effect. Headers on a turbo car are only for drag racers trying to squeeze out every hp. Theyve been known to crack so keep that in mind.
Other than that Ive covered everything , read up more though because this stroker for you can become a nightmare if you dont know what your doing.....
 
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