Rebuilt engine questions

[TurboTJ]

I just finished rebuilding my engine and I have a few questions. It started up on the first try but the check engine light came on. I could not find the port to connect my scanner too. Does anyone know where this is? The clutch catches about an inch off the floor (its a competition clutch stage 4 with sprung hub). Is this ok? I have an oil leak coming from the timing cover. Is there anything simple that this could be or do the pulleys and timing cover need to be removed?

96 talon TSI AWD 5spd (98 block)
stage 4 competition clutch
ares pistons
eagle H-beams
topline crank
greddy timing belt

 

[95blackGsTurbo]

No idea what a stage 4 competition clutch is but I can say it is way overkill for daily driving. The port is under the dash on the right side. As far as the clutch engaging fast, most aftermarket clutches will do that. You can also try adjusting it by moving the adjustment rod located on the clutch pedal. The leak from around the timing cover is going to require you to take the timing belt and cover back off and reseal it. Make sure you use CopperCoat gasket spray on every part you can to ensure it seals. And torque to proper specs. Also with the clutch, do you have a link or something to refer too? Is it street disc or puck?

 

[TurboTJ]

Here is the link to the clutch
http://www.competitionclutch.com/view.phtml?f_cat=Sport+Compact+Clutch+Kits&is_makeable=1
Its the stage four with the sprung hub
I also did the balance shaft eleminator but I made sure to plug the hole made by removing the balance shaft pulley.

 

[95blackGsTurbo]

Did you seal the plug to make sure it stays in. With some sort of RTV. Also you may have cracked the cover as well. Also the 6 puck is going to be part of your clutch problem. Hard fast engaging. I'm leary about clutches that don't list actual pressure plate pressure's and use percentage's instead.

 

[TurboTJ]

seal looks good. what cover are you talking about? Timing? Its a pretty big leak. More than just a seep. Kinda a constant dripping. Seems to only happen when the engine is on which makes me think it is a pressurized source.

 

[95blackGsTurbo]

Definately gonna need to take the cover back off at least. The timing cover.

 

[nightspeed87]

maybe its missing the cam seals behind the gears? Mines were missing when we put my head back on, and had to take it back apart again, and as far as the clutch try bleeding it. But my clutch is doing the same thing ( and its a worn out stock clutch ) and it has like no pedal pressure up top of the pedal travel just on the bottom. I think maybe I have a problem with the master cylinder? Or clutch pedal spring? I may replace them both to see if that helps, but on a old engine I had put a centerforce dual friction clutch in and it didnt gain proper pedal height and feel until like 100miles so maybe it just has to seat?

 

[lookin4dsm]

I also did the balance shaft eleminator but I made sure to plug the hole made by removing the balance shaft pulley.

Did you plug the hole by installing a shorter bolt with rtv on the threads? Also, check the o-ring behind the castle plug for the rear balance shaft. Make sure the castle plug is snug.

Mike

 

[TurboTJ]

I actually had a local race shop build me the short block so they installed the balance shaft elemenator. Looked like they installed a shorter bolt and it didnt look like it was gonna leak.
As far as the clutch goes, I also replaced the clutch fork. Pedal pressure remains until the top of the pedal operating range. I have only put a little under a mile on the car since I rebuilt it. The last thing that had me a little sketched out was a metalic noise while the engine was running. Sounds like a cam bearing not getting oil or something??? (I do have oil pressure) Is this typical for a rebuilt engine? Could it just be the rings seating or something? Thanks for the help.

 

[drivemusicnow]

Did you seal the plug to make sure it stays in. With some sort of RTV. Also you may have cracked the cover as well. Also the 6 puck is going to be part of your clutch problem. Hard fast engaging. I'm leary about clutches that don't list actual pressure plate pressure's and use percentage's instead.

Very few clutch companies list the pressure plate force. The commonly reffered to "2100, 2600, 2900, 3100" ACT clutch pressure plates are not actually as obvious as they may seem. I believe the DSM community is pretty much the only one that knows them by they're old style of product labelling, and this does not reflect the current actual pressure plate force.

Plus, I'd say anyone short of an engineer (or a very avid technical enthusiast) could do the math to calculate the difference in holding torque between two clutches, even if they had the MUs, MUf, pressure plate force, Surface area, and RPM that they were trying to calculate it from. I'm not saying to just trust the company, but unless you can do the math... there is no point of knowing a virtually unquantifiable number.


As to the original poster, Please look in the vfaq for the clutch adjustment method, it should not be 1 inch off the floor.

You also absolutely need to fix/check the oil leak, and your timing belt SHOULD be replaced if it is oily. Oil on a timing belt = shortened life. I personally would probably just change it at like 30-40k miles instead of immediately, but that is me. I'm a cheap bastard.