Idle problems

[whiteturbo]

Alright, ive searched, but this is more a desperate/angry/upset post. So i purchased a 1g fwd laser turbo, it has b16g with all the supporting mods. My first problem is, lets say its in neutral and i give it some gas, it revs then the idle gets real low. Im talkin the 700-800 rpm. (as stated on the Apexi S-afc. It then will idle poorly and rich (autometer a/f ratio gauge) and then it takes a little time until it regains normal idle. Should i bring it to my "normal" mechanic, should i just read up and just try to tune it with the apexi unit? Or should i bite the bullet and take it to a shop like turbotrix etc. and pay a large amount of cash. If i then shut her down, it will take 3+ cranks to get her started up. My mechanic says my radiator seems to be bent at the bottom, does this mean it could be a direct cause to this problem? Next i think my problem is the shifter bushings. Some times i put it into first but it just grinds and isn't all the way in. I have to place in neutral and push the clutch in again. Is that my own fault or is somthing needed to be replaced?
this is my mod list ftw:
Wiseco Pistons
Eagle Rods
ARP Head Studs
3 Layer Head gasket
Ported Head with 1mm Oversized Valves
264 Web Cams
t-belt, oil pump, water pump, balance shaft
removal done at engine build.
Walbro 255 Fuel Pump
RC 550cc Injectors
Blaha Air Intake
Dejon Tools Intake Pipe
Upgraded Turbo Outlet Pipe
MHI EVO III Big 16G
95 Ported Exhaust Manifold
Tial 38mm External Wastegate with Dump
Ported O2 Housing
2.5 Full Exhaust with Apexi N1 Muffler
Upgraded Intercooler Pipes with Crushed 1g BOV
thanks for the help.. im just really uneasy about this situation.
andrew

 

[Auto RS T]

Get a logger to tune your car with the AFC. Use this link for tuning. You can do it yourself with these tools. No need to pay anyone. I don't think any average mechanic could tune an AFC without knowing how the unit works and what it is actually doing when you adjust the settings.

http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/showthread.php?t=58403

You will also need an Aftermarket Fuel Pressure Regulator. The stock unit is being overrun at idle and cruising and is not able to control the amount of fuel flow.

You can test the Idle Speed Controller to see if it is going bad also, this could be an additional cause of your low idle. There is a resistance test to check the coils inside the ISC but this link will show you how to check visually also.

http://vfaq.com/index-main.html

The bent radiator should not cause the car not to start. It is part of the cooling system and a bent radiator would not affect start up.

The shifting problem could be your fault or it could possibly be bad synchros. Does it grind when you go to put it in gear while still moving?

 

[98gst14b]

is your bov recirculated?

 

[dsmclipse97]

could be the cams if they are too aggressive. i dont know anything about "web cams." this would not effect your shifting which is a different problem

 

[whiteturbo]

it seems to be recirculated crushed 1g bov. All this is helpful, but what can i do to make this run decent for the time being? As for the trans i will give an example: i will come to a stop at a light, it seems if i have the clutch in while waiting, then go to put it into gear it will grind when i try to take off. I take it out of gear and reapply the clutch and put it into gear. Is it that im possibly not placing the clutch in all the way from the get go??? It seems like if doesnt go all the way in. but sometimes it seems like it just cant? is this making any sense or do i just suck at standard. Also i doubt this is relevant, but on the boost controller you can have a display of mph and boost and throttle % etc etc, and it seems a decent amount off. Could this be a problem? i doubt it is. Im just trying to get this thing running as good as possible before i put more money out. THanks
andrew

 

[whiteturbo]

could this all be caused by a bad boost leak?

 

[1990talon]

700-800 is not that low what is your base idle

 

[1990talon]

when reving dose it rev up fine? or does it sputter? does it only go to a certian RPM? or what?

 

[1990talon]

Also try bleeding your clutch.

 

[1990talon]

Get a logger to tune your car with the AFC. Use this link for tuning. You can do it yourself with these tools. No need to pay anyone. I don't think any average mechanic could tune an AFC without knowing how the unit works and what it is actually doing when you adjust the settings.

http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/showthread.php?t=58403

You will also need an Aftermarket Fuel Pressure Regulator. The stock unit is being overrun at idle and cruising and is not able to control the amount of fuel flow.

You can test the Idle Speed Controller to see if it is going bad also, this could be an additional cause of your low idle. There is a resistance test to check the coils inside the ISC but this link will show you how to check visually also.

http://vfaq.com/index-main.html

The bent radiator should not cause the car not to start. It is part of the cooling system and a bent radiator would not affect start up.

The shifting problem could be your fault or it could possibly be bad synchros. Does it grind when you go to put it in gear while still moving?

I didn't read this sorry I missed that you don't have a AFPR you need one.

 

[whiteturbo]

ok, so the trans i believe is my fault, im just inexpierence and need practice. I took her for a nice light drive, just cruising, not passing 3500rpm (when i hit full boost) and it did fine, but then all of a sudden, at around 2800rpm in 3rd, it just stalled, i'm in the middle of traffic and quickly pull to the side. It then does not start up for another 2-3 minutes. After that it drives fine. It freaks me out that inexplicably it stalls. Do you guys think if i get an AFPR my stalling will go away? How difficult is it to install this afpr? I just want to fix this problem before i cause an accident or somthing worse insues. Im sorry im such a newbie, but i dont know what to search for and really want to get this fixed asap. THanks
andrew

::edit:: my idle is just below 1000, but when it idles at 600-800 the car is shaking pretty rough. I just want this car to run as well as possible. thanks

 

[Auto RS T]

This should give you an idea about the AFPR install.

http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/showthread.php?t=186032

It is really not that hard, make sure you relieve the fuel pressure first by unplugging the fuel pump and starting the car until it stalls out from lack of fuel.

We can't be positive it will go away but it is definately a good start.

 

[whiteturbo]

could it be a combo of possible bad spark plugs/wires and the abcense of the afpr? One question is why now is it just starting, i drove it during the weekend and it was fine. I bring it to the body shop and it doesnt seem the same. Of course i cant do anything about this. I think im just gunna freshen it up with new oil and other refreshments for the car. thanks

 

[whiteturbo]

alright, so i havent driven it in a good day or so. This morning i take her out. At first when i turn it on, the idle is at 1200rpm! This is definately incorrect. THen i decide to take it slow. I drive it nice and slow always shifting before 3000rpm. i come to a few stop signs and my idle drops back down to 1000rpm-800rpm. At this point im relatively happy it has not stalled out and it is running pretty well. I then give her some boost and it handles it quite well. I drove for a good 25 minutes and it ran well. So what do you guys think? first it idles low and stalls, now it starts off idling high. I still havent had a chance to get spark plugs, afpr, and other small things. thanks for the help...

 

[steve]

I took her for a nice light drive, just cruising, not passing 3500rpm (when i hit full boost) and it did fine, but then all of a sudden, at around 2800rpm in 3rd, it just stalled, i'm in the middle of traffic and quickly pull to the side. It then does not start up for another 2-3 minutes. After that it drives fine.

The ECUs in 1G cars came from the factory with defective capacitors that leak over time and damage the ECU. One of the symptoms is random stalling. Another is the inability to maintain a steady idle. If ignored this will progress to the point when the car stops running.

Pull the ECU and have it checked for the capacitors leaking. Do this before you start messing with anything else on the car. Every single one of these ECUs has either had the capacitors leak or will.

Steve

 

[grnchevyz]

As for the clutch, check your master and slave cylinder...easy to check. Under the clutch pedal, under the carpet, if you see deposits, chances are your master cylinder is about to puke. I had the same shifting problems on my GSX. Turns out the master cylinder went.

 

[whiteturbo]

alright, well i have not driven the vehicle much, so i decide to take her for a small spin. i stopped at a store. I let it cool etc. Icome back out and i crank it up. well i crank it and it starts, but then the idle will not get up. It studders. It then wont stay on, it will just die... it makes a clicking near the firewall/right behind the radio area. I waited some time, and it started. Now i def. almost know that its the absence of the AFPR. Anyway, im driving it home within 10 minutes of the startup issue and im traveling about 40ish, and my car starts minor clicking in the same area, and my tach just dies off. I downshift and the engine still revs then cuts off. I am entering a turn, and my power steering cuts and i almost side swipe a car. It doesnt start for a good 4+ hours (still havent tried just pushed it home) When i tried to start it, i poped the hood and i could distinctly smell gas and DEF. thought taht it was recieving to much gas due to the absence of the afpr. Also when i tried to start it i got a LOUD backfire but it still wouldnt crank. I'm ordering the afpr soon and i don't think it is a good idea to run it. Just so i dont go insane, please tell me that if my ecu isnt messed up like STEVE stated, that i need an afpr. THanks and im sorry for the long post, im just frazled. thanks
andrew

 

[sniver]

The clicking is the relay near the computer, and that clicks on and off when the capacitors are not able to hold charge enoguh to mantain the proper voltage for the ecu to work, i do believe. This happened to me about 3 months ago and sure enough the ecu was beyond repair and I had to buy a new one. Your probally going to need a new computer, but you can open yours up and look for the leaking capacitors and decided you want to try and fix it or just get a new one. And then you'll still need the afpr.

 

[whiteturbo]

so if my car does have the leaking capacitor, should i buy a used ecu or do i have to go new? im sorry for the lack of intelligence in my posts.
thanks
andrew

 

[steve]

You have three choices. repair the one you have, buy a used one, or morgage your house for a new one.

Steve

 

[whiteturbo]

::UPDATE::
ok, ive taken the car to my mechanic. So he first just trys to get the car running he changed the plugs and other small things, like new fuel filter etc. So then i tell him about the ecu and how they all can possibly have leaky capacitors. He takes out teh ecu and no leakage what so ever. He says he looked under a magnifying glass and there is no leakage what so ever. Now im kind of freaking out. He states that he had 5 minute spurts of the car running fine, then just dieing out. Should i just change the capacitors anyway? I started off in the right direction and now im just rolling down the hill, this is my daily driver (i know dsm and daily driver in a sentance i must be crazy!) Does anyone have suggestions? SHould i just put the afpr on asap and maybe my problems go away? Im really starting to understand why you dont purchase modified cars as first cars.... If anyone has some helpful suggestive input i would REALLY appreciate it thanks.
Andrew

 

[whiteturbo]

could this be a bad fuel pump?
Also could a large boost leak (though i dont think i have one) cause this?
Im really running around here not knowing what the problem is.
Also my mechanics book on this car states the n/t has a spark plug gap of .028-.030 and for the turbo .038-.043 !!! isnt that the opposite??? thanks
andrew

 

[1990talon]

Gap ypur plugs at .028

 

[whiteturbo]

alright i ordered my afpr, we'll see what it does.

 

[Jeff99GS]

Change your ISC (Idle control Motor)....The car is stalling cause the ISC is dying. When it goes bad completely it will short out the Capacitors in the ECU and they will leak acid on the ECU board, thus burning out the ECU. If you wait too long you will need a new ISC and ECU.

The ISC is what causes the Capacitors to leak (smoking the ECU)....stalling is a good sign that you need a new ISC. Just change it, its easy