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Brake Pad Problem

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fwdturbobov1996

15+ Year Contributor
1,504
8
Feb 27, 2004
Blue Springs, Missouri
Ok changed the pads today. Well I've done it many times before on previous dsm's. Well the drivers side caliper was a pita to get open to slide the pads in. The passenger side opened up just fine.

Slipped in new pads
Compressed pistons
Bleed the breaks.

Well now the drivers side is rubbing, constantly. I dont even roll on a hill, the brake is engaged. Could the fact taht the caliper was a pita to slide up and down and now its putting extra pressure on the pad at unwanted times? Anyone had a caliper fail?
 
I have also heard of the pistons compressing and locking up in DSMs. It seems that is not all that uncommon if you look around for it.
 
Well my buddy said I just ruined my rotors and pads. I forgot what term he used. But the brake pads need new surfaces to press against and if not, they will just mess up. Oh well, big brake kit would be nice.
 
fwdturbobov1996 said:
Ok changed the pads today. Well I've done it many times before on previous dsm's. Well the drivers side caliper was a pita to get open to slide the pads in. The passenger side opened up just fine.

Slipped in new pads
Compressed pistons
Bleed the breaks.

Well now the drivers side is rubbing, constantly. I dont even roll on a hill, the brake is engaged. Could the fact taht the caliper was a pita to slide up and down and now its putting extra pressure on the pad at unwanted times? Anyone had a caliper fail?

They fail all the time. That's why the parts stores have them on the shelves. Replace it or rebuild it.
 
If you look at your brake calliper pistons (that you screwed in to open them up), make sure the two trianle-shaped raised areas are lined up so that they will not run against the brake pads when you swing the calliper back down. A friend of mine and I did this one day and it took us quite a while to notice that it matters exactly what position the pistons are in when you stop screwing them in.
 
Did you regrease the slide? Also, if rust is a problem in your area, it get past the rubber seal and makes the piston stick.
 
Also when I make a hard right turn it makes a grinding sound. As if the pad is low and the warning thing is screeching. On the old pads it was very very loud, on the new pads its not that loud, but still noticeable. I think I'm just going to go ahead and order a new caliper.
 
This is on a 95 tsi awd. Someone else also mentioned that it could be the line not workign properly and trapping fluid in and causing pressure to be put on. Well I was looking at mitsubishioemparts.com and they have the pistons for like 50 bucks and the whole thing for like 120. Just going to start replacing stuff and we will see what it is.

Ill take it back apart on sunday, only day I have off, and I will look for these triangles you speak of. All the otehr cars I just pushed in and away I went with no problems.

Thing is the noise happened BEFORE I changed the pads, changing the pads made it better. Which means, something broke/ is in the process of failing. Just need to figure out what.

I'll need new pads after this too, going to cause lots of wear and tear. Glad they come with a " lifetime warrenty " LOL
 
I would look to the rubber boots. If they're torn, then the sliders can get rusted up, and then the caliper is seized. Happened to both my rears, so I just replaced them last weekend. I think your new rotors and pads should be fine though, just don't drive it anymore until you rebuild/replace your calipers.
 
Well my buddy is parting out his 95 awd. He has a almost brand new Wilwood ( sp ) 13 inch big brake kit. 4 piston calipars, pads, relocation brackets and all hardware ( minus the lines ) for 500 bucks. Might as well upgrade now
 
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