1g oil water cooler , 2g oil water cooler? oil in my coolant?

[vsalas793]

i have 96 gst 6 bolt swap. im running a water oil cooler on my six bolt swap. its my 2g water oil cooler. i know that on magnusmotorsports.com its says to use a 1g water oil cooler. is there a diffrence in between 91-94 water oil cooler and 95-99???????? my motor came with air oil cooler housing but i switched to water cooling housing because i didnt want to spend 500 on greddy air radiator kit. but currently i have a 1g 92 water oil cooling bracket and 2g water cooler. The reason is that oil is going into my coolant system and i dont know from where??? after a week of 10 miles per day. i loose about a quart of oil into my coolant system.
-no smoke coming out of my exhaust
-runs 270 to wheel currently tuned
-aem ems reads 197-205 coolant temps
-car runs smooth and nice. no ticking and no water in the oil


i have a new head gasket mls cometic and arp head studs torqued to 100 lbs. with the arp lube.

 

[Wildeclipse2000]

If you are having your oil mix with your coolant, stop driving the car. It doesn't seem right that you are seeing those temps if there is oil in the coolant. If there is oil in the coolant, you must be changing the oil in this thing everytime you drive it.

What was your reasoning for getting rid of the 92 water cooler on that housing? These are know as water mixers, due to the common problem of the oil and coolant mixing.

If I were you I would go back to the external air cooled oil filter housing. You don't have to go out and buy some expensive Greddy piece. Just get a $50 -$70 cooler from any local parts store, as they work just as good.

 

[slugsgomoo]

you're better off running no cooler at all than the water/oil cooler. Obviously a thermostatically controlled air/oil cooler is ideal, but if you don't have the money for that yet, the safe thing is to just run sans cooling.

My oil cooler thermostat doesn't allow the oil to cool until 180* which means we can assume that it is hotter than that. With the water cooler, the water temp is 190-205* most of the time, which I don't think is that beneficial. The only thing most of the guys around here will say for the oil/water cooler, is that it brings the oil to temp more quickly, if you don't want to wait for the car to warm up.


Here's a bit of information that i posted on another board about my original setup that used a 90 housing with the built in thermostat. My new setup uses an N/T or forward facing housing and an external thermostat. It's more than adequate (maybe even a bit overkill) and not very expensive to do right. You don't need a "greddy" kit to do this, when using a B&M cooler and some AN hardware will work just as well.

I've ordered stainless lines, fittings and an oil cooler from summit, and with shipping it's $150 (obviously you need the 90 filter housing). One of the guys on DSM IRC just put this EXACT same setup together and reported that it was easy and works great.

here are the links to all of the parts. You need two of each, except for the hose and cooler, obviously.

-8AN to 1/2" NPT $4.95 (x2)

-8AN to 16mmx1.5 $6.95 (x2)

-8AN thread to -8AN hose 90* female $13.88 (x2)

-8AN thread to -8AN straight female $5.88 (x2)

-8AN Stainless Braided Hose 6' $24.95 (x1)

B&M 8x11x1.5 Oil Cooler $59.88

Total: $148.15 + handling

I would definitely suggest adding some more $$ to that and ordering two pieces of hose. You'll probably need about 10'

 

[95TalonOwner]

Another way that oil gets in the coolant is if you tightened the oil filter too much, you can crush the delicate oil filter housing which will then allow the oil and coolant to mix.


from vafq:
SIDE VIEW - This is the "worth a thousand words" shot. From here, you can see and imagine how this thing works. Coolant flows in and out of the pipes at the top of the pic. Oil flows all through the inner chambers, and the coolant and oil attempts to match temperature. You can see how the center is hollow for the oil filter shaft to go through it. It is hard to see on this pic, but the base of the unit at the point where the shaft goes through it is not as low as the outer rim. Let me attempt to explain. When you install the unit, the rubber seal will squish down and the attaching shaft will apply the torque to the outer rim because the outer rim will hit the mounting surface first. If you keep tightening it, the center section will crush down and eventually bottom out on the mounting surface. At this point, you have probably crushed or distorted all of the inner fins and your oil and water will be mixing. This picture is of a unit that has been crushed and distorted. It doesn't take much
distortion to damage the integrity of the tiny inner chambers. Click the picture to see the big version, and if you look close on the bottom surface, you can see a slight curve where the rubber o ring was compressed too tight and bent the unit.

You must be logged in to view this image or video.

 

[vsalas793]

thanks guys for the tips. im going to try the external oil cooling way.

didnt get this question answered which is there a diffrence between 1g and 2g water oil cooler.

meanwhile can i run with out water oil cooler.

 

[Defiant]

you're better off running no cooler at all than the water/oil cooler. Obviously a thermostatically controlled air/oil cooler is ideal, but if you don't have the money for that yet, the safe thing is to just run sans cooling.

I completely disagree. The water/oil cooler/warmer is far better than not cooling, and is excellent for real-world street use.
For racing, go to a conventional oil radiator.
But use something for a cooler.

 

[slugsgomoo]

I completely disagree. The water/oil cooler/warmer is far better than not cooling, and is excellent for real-world street use.
For racing, go to a conventional oil radiator.
But use something for a cooler.

I'm not going to suggest that running with no cooler is better than doing an air/oil setup, since it would be ridiculous, but given the risks of the water cooler on the DSM, I don't think it is worth it.

When I put my motor together, I was pretty concerned since I didn't have a non-leaky oil/water setup and I wasn't ready to go to oil/air yet, so i started researching what the downsides were to running no cooler.

From everyone I talked to locally who actually beats their car, and has monitored this due to the very same question, I came back with "let the car warm up to temp, and don't worry about it" Several people were logging oil temps lower than they did with the coolant setup, perhaps due to the outrageous temps in the coolant system during a track event. Honestly, your oil that is left in the oil pan does more for cooling the oil than the 200* water in that tiny disaster underneath the filter.

It's not as if I went about this in some entirely irresponsible manner- I've got a built motor & head that would be rather expensive to replace if I #### them up due to doing something completely retarded.

I definitely wouldn't do long oil change intervals unless i had an air/oil setup though. It seems irresponsible.