My new engine just broke. please help! cant rev past 2k without bog

[CorrupTTalon]

if you can figure this out youre awesome!

background:

2.3 stroker
nearly stock head
stage three turbo
running nearly NO boost

i do have moble1 syn in it, and im breaking it in.. i have learned that is bad and now im throwing 40weight generic organic crap in.

ive never hit fuel cut but from what ive heard thats what it sounds like.

problem:

it ran decent all day, i put about 15 miles on it. and had it idle for some time. anyways i pull out of a drive and take off on a main road and once i hit second i was at about 5k rpms the thing stops and i hear a noise in the engine.. i immeditately pull over and inspect. it was running like the MAF sensor was unplugged. but nothing had changed.. and it was running like crap.. spitting and sputtering.. i couldnt accellerate past 2k rpm without it bogging down. so i shift it like a baby and was able to get up to 45mph to get it home. pull the plug to find all four BLACK and my pretty new alluminum shiny pistons black and a little WET.. im guessing its running rich because its sputtering and bogging and thats what the wetness was on top of the pistons. it also poofed when i shut it down, not a backfire but im guessing it was fuel left over that exploded in the hot exhaust

anyways if you read that, you are awesome. do you have any suggestions? im gonna do a compression test tomorrow, and pull the pan.. the dip stick looked fine.

thanks in advance

 

[sheldon]

What size injectors do you have? What are you using for tuning? We need to know a little bit more. I would start with a check for boost leaks and a compression test. Also unplug the maf while idleing and if nothing changes then the maf is bad, but if not at least you ruled that out.

 

[CorrupTTalon]

thanks, i kept the fuel and engine managment stock for now. im running 8-10 pounds of boost on a 60mm inducer/80 exducer turbo. stock injectors. if i hit a fuel cut would it run like crap after? i would assume it would run fine except for that one instance of hitting fuel cut..

when i unplgged the maf it almost ran better.. haha

i have NO guages so i feel lost..

 

[lenny 15]

first off, you absolutly MUST get some tuning devices and gauges and things or however much you just spent on your turbo and motor will be blown. you will have a messed up turbo and a blown motor. then, if you dont know how to tune it, get it tuned. that is what i think is your problem, bad tune.

 

[spyderturbo007]

first off, you absolutly MUST get some tuning devices and gauges and things or however much you just spent on your turbo and motor will be blown. you

Um.....can you please explain why he must get some sort of tuning device??????

The way I see it, he isn't running larger injectors so there is nothing to compensate for.

To the original poster:

Do you have a logger? Am I getting this right saying that you don't have a boost gauge?? Did you do a leak check?

I'm not familiar with turbos being labeled by their inducer / exducer size so could you break that down into a "normal" designation, such as T28, T25 ect.

 

[andymoraitis]

Sputtering, inability to rev, blackened plugs, etc sounds more like an intercooler coupler coming off and the MAF reading hideeosly rich as a result from the loss of metered air. Give the thing a proper boost leak test and let us know what you find. If you built this motor and don't have a method of logging or monitoring boost, leave it alone until you do. Running without any metering tools is simply irresponsible.

Look to simple things first,

Andy

 

[spyderturbo007]

sounds more like an intercooler coupler coming off

I thought the same thing at first, but I didn't see the normal "I heard this really loud bang from under the hood and thought I blew up the car"

 

[chetvram]

sounds like same thing that happened to me. I heard this loud pop and my buddy asks me if I got a new BOV. Nope just blew off a coupler.

 

[Ultimatedsm]

Just do a boost leak test and a compression test to find out if your intake tract and your engine is good to go. That way you will know for sure right. Thats a pretty large turbo and I recommend getting some larger fuel injectors at least 650cc's with some kind of tuning device.

I don't recommend an SAFC if you go 650's because it tends to advance the timing too much when you want to lower it, specially at 18-20 PSI of boost when you want your timing around 14-15 degrees at top.

Some advice to you is get your supporting mods before your turbo setup, that way everything will run great and safely.

 

[CorrupTTalon]

thank you for the replies.

i of course checked the piping for somthing blown off

and i kept the fuel stock because i didnt want to get into tunning it just yet.. i was going to run it like it was stock and wake it up later when im ready for fuel. reason being i want to go haltech..etc..

so i agree with doing the simple things, i dont want to call myself lazy, i had actually planned on not having any sweet dataloggers...etc.. the thing started right up the first time and ran great.. im investigating it today to find out whats wrong. ill check over everything once more, do a compression test first, then pull the pan..etc..

 

[95talon_in_ma]

Since it was running fine and you ruled out leaks, I'd check the timing. Did you keep all of your cam gears stock? Or did you get the adjustable ones?
Is the CEL on? If so, get the codes and start from there.
Unplug the battery to reset it. If it runs fine when you start it back up, I'd look into the puter...

good luck..

 

[CorrupTTalon]

thanks for all the help guys, i appreciate it..

something else has happend and i have some knock... so i think the new engine is toast..

is the sound of the valves hitting the pistons a different sound that some sort of knock? my oil looks clean of deposits from the dip stick so i dont think its a bearing

 

[fwdturbobov1996]

Stage 3 turbo. hahaah. Trim? Brand?

 

[PRESSURIZED]

thanks for all the help guys, i appreciate it..

something else has happend and i have some knock... so i think the new engine is toast..

is the sound of the valves hitting the pistons a different sound that some sort of knock? my oil looks clean of deposits from the dip stick so i dont think its a bearing

Sounds like your timing belt tensioner (or related part) is/was failing and letting the car jump timing.

You probably jumped a couple teeth at first, which explains the bogging and the rich condition etc.

Then it jumped again possibly letting the valves tap the pistons.....

Either that or something is broken in the shortblock.

 

[PRESSURIZED]

thanks,im running 8-10 pounds of boost on a 60mm inducer/80 exducer turbo.
..

....

 

[CorrupTTalon]

the turbo is custom from turbo-concepts here in michigan.. bored and double sealed..etc..

so i never know what to call it. excuse my ignorance

and the original problem turned out to be the coupler.. it was a hard one to spot though.. i had to take a few things out to really see it.

anyways the knocking is scary and i hope its just jumped timing.. i atleast have an extra set of valves. all the timing is new.. every component.. even of course the tensioner.. would leaking oil on the pump side make the belt jump due to lubrication on the gears and belt?

also where do you guys get your dataloggers? are these just obd read outs to a laptop?

 

[spyderturbo007]

also where do you guys get your dataloggers? are these just obd read outs to a laptop?

www.pocketlogger.com

Great little program that runs on a Palm. It's available for both OBD-I and OBD-II.