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i need some fuel tuning help on an afc-quickly

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96talon4g63

15+ Year Contributor
32
0
Mar 22, 2006
Dumont, New Jersey
ok, so i had my car tuned at turbotrix yesterday, i go to pick it up, it runs fine all the way to the parkway. i get on the parkway, and it suddenly wont go anywhere, im giving it gas, and it's not moving, i pull over, wait 5 minutes, and it wont rev passed 3k and you can hear its giving too much air or fuel. so i had the car towed home, i called turbotrix and they said to adjust the fuel curve - or + 10% and im not sure how, can somebody help me.......?
 
IC coupling popped off...happened to me like 5 times. Same symptoms. Looking for boost leaks is the best 1st step.
 
agreed, dont touch your settings untill you have tested for a leak (or a poped off coupler).
my bet is on the coupler. and if they just tuned it you should not need to adjust it 10%.
 
i checked every coupler on the car, every vaccuum line, and no leak whatsoever, when i woke up this morning, i jumped in the car and it ran, i took it for about a 5 minute ride on 23 psi and had no problems, i got home from the beach about an hour ago, i start it up and there it goes again, it sounds like its starving of air and running too rich, it wont go past 2800rpm, ive had boost leaks before, it doesnt seam like that's what it is. whatever it is, when i started it this morning when it was ice cold it ran fine, then in the afternoon, for some odd reason, when the temp got a little warmer outside, it runs real rich and bogs at 2500rpm
 
Coolant temp sensor????? and also if they tuned ## S-AFC write down teh settings for each interval then zero the settings out and see if that does anything, make sure u write all the settings down be 4 u zero it out, dont wanna waste money on a tune just to start all over again!
 
NMFDChris1G said:
and also if they tuned ## S-AFC write down teh settings for each interval then zero the settings out and see if that does anything,

That's about the worst idea I've heard in a long time. WTF The only thing that will happen by doing that, will be running pig rich. With 720cc injectors and a SAFC set at 0 across the board, he will end up with a FT malfunction CEL very quickly, most likely foul his plugs and the car will be running like crap. Please don't post about things you have no experience with.

To the original poster: Did you actually perform a leak check, or just visually inspect your couplers? Also, I'm guessing that you have a logger?? Could you post up a 3rd gear pull logging timing, rpm, knock and O2 voltage. Prior to making the pull, please verify that your TPS is approx 100% at WOT. Also, make sure your IAT, CTS and FT's look normal at idle. Once you have verified that the sensors check out, then go ahead and make the pull.
 
96talon4g63 said:
i checked every coupler on the car, every vaccuum line, and no leak whatsoever, when i woke up this morning, i jumped in the car and it ran, i took it for about a 5 minute ride on 23 psi and had no problems, i got home from the beach about an hour ago, i start it up and there it goes again, it sounds like its starving of air and running too rich, it wont go past 2800rpm, ive had boost leaks before, it doesnt seam like that's what it is. whatever it is, when i started it this morning when it was ice cold it ran fine, then in the afternoon, for some odd reason, when the temp got a little warmer outside, it runs real rich and bogs at 2500rpm

When you say you checked everything, that doesn't say you actually did a boostleak test.
Running rich and bogging=boostleak.
 
Could it possibly be a dead or malfuctioning O2 sensor? It sounds exactly like a blown off IC pipe or huge boost leak, but it doesn't make any sense that it'll run fine sometimes and then crap out for no apparent reason. I'm interested to see what this ends up being!

Just out of curiosity (not trying to hijack the thread), aren't 720cc's a little too big for an safc?
 
the only reason i would say its not a boost leak, is because at some points the car ran fine after the tuning. like i said, yesterday i woke up and drove the car for about 5 minutes, with no problems, then 8 hrs later i tried and had the same problem, it sounds like its starving for air. i asked my mechanic (Jeff Hill) if i should tow it back down to him, he said try swapping the ecu out for another of the same year (96) would it matter if it was a 97 or a 98 or does it have to be a 96. i can usually take what he says to the bank, he knows his stuff but before i go crazy looking for a 96 ecu, can someone tell me if any other years would work( for instance 95-96 or 97-99) or does the ecu swapping sound like a bad idea??? I think im going to end up going stand alone soon anyway,, because my set up could definately use it. but i wanna fix the problem in hand first
 
i need to get a wideband, either aem or innovate then im probably going to get a stand alone, either autronic, or aem ems, what do you guys think?? because tuning and electrical has been my flaw, i need to learn how to do my own tuning, or at least be able to look at my unit and be able to tell what the problem may be
 
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