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teamitr

15+ Year Contributor
100
0
Jun 14, 2005
Riverside, California
Ok so my car was bogging down when i would release the gas while driving or reving the engine, so i did a boost leak test and got everything patched up, so i rev the engine again and it bogs again. so i order the recurculating kit and intall it, so i try it again and it still bogs. so i'm sitting in my ride all mad and i look at my afc setting and i notice that at 1000 rpm my settings are at +5% fuel. and everything else its at an avarage of -20% (keep in mind that i have 580 inj "siemens 3102") so then i think to my self why is it that in idle i have a positive setting in my afc?, if i really have 580 inj it should be like at 22% just like the other settings. ( wot was tuned with wideband at 11.8). and I remeber that the low settings were tuned with a logger fallowing the reading of the 02 sensor and the ltf %, and according to those it would show that at idle i needed fuel till i got to +5% on the afc and the ltf was at "0" and my idle sounded fine.
So then after remembering all that i looked at my logger while at idle and the 02 reading was at .04 at normal operating temperature. now if i reved it the voltage would jump around but then it would go back to .04 and stay there and not move. ( but when i'm at WOT the voltage reading is at .98v) sot then i say #### it! and i changed the afc setting on idle at -22% i let it sit for 30 sec and i look at the logger and the 02 sensor still shows .04v, so i go ahed and revit and guess what MY CAR DOES NOT BOG ANYMORE, it just goes down to 1000rpm and then it drops back down to 800/900 rpm range.
So what i'm wondering is that if at idle my 02 sensor is not working. and while crusing for some reason it begains to work, also when i lower the afc setting to -22% eventhough my 02 voltage does not change, my logger showed that the ltf was at like -17.
So should i replace my 02 sensor?
and is -22% the right number to be at in the afc no matter what the reading is on my current 02 sensor?

Thanks for ## time.
 
i got both.
and also i would like to add that even after i did my boost leak test and fixed everything my gauge is still showing me 38 to 40 vaccum. it is a blitz duel turbo timer boost gauge. culd it be that it's giving me that wrong reading?.
 
donmagicjuan said:
Just to clarify, did I interpret your original post correctly to mean that you are now recirculating your BOV? If your AFC settings were dialed in for a vent-to-atmosphere setup, that would explain the +5% at idle.


Ok well i just hooked up a boost gauge and same thing the vac is at -30.
and as far as the afc setting goes there is no way that the settings for a vent to atmosphere could be at +5 at idle because as you realese the air from the bov you go into a rich condition so if that was the case it would have to be in the minus part of the afc.
and yes now i'm recurculatig.

Changing the subject a lil, I was going to adjust my tps and when i go to put the .45 mm feeler gauge on the throtle stoper i notice that i do not have one the screw that goes in there is missing so i wanted to put a screw on it but i was wondering if i just screw it in until it tuches the throtle stopper?.
 
teamitr said:
...as far as the afc setting goes there is no way that the settings for a vent to atmosphere could be at +5 at idle because as you realese the air from the bov you go into a rich condition so if that was the case it would have to be in the minus part of the afc.
If your vacuum is strong enough at idle to hold the BOV open, extra unmetered air will enter the engine, thus requiring a positive offset in the MAS signal to zero the fuel trims.
 
teamitr said:
Changing the subject a lil, I was going to adjust my tps and when i go to put the .45 mm feeler gauge on the throtle stoper i notice that i do not have one the screw that goes in there is missing so i wanted to put a screw on it but i was wondering if i just screw it in until it tuches the throtle stopper?.
If memory serves, you adjust the screw one and a quarter turns past the point where it just touches the throttle linkage, but I believe it's on the vfaq page if you want to be sure.
 
donmagicjuan said:
If your vacuum is strong enough at idle to hold the BOV open, extra unmetered air will enter the engine, thus requiring a positive offset in the MAS signal to zero the fuel trims.

I understand that but i'm not venting to the athmosphere. so that would not really apply to me.
 
donmagicjuan said:
:mad: Grrrrrrr.... You said you WERE venting previously, which is when I can only imagine your car was tuned with the AFC. Prove me wrong.

well i guess u missed the part:
"Ok so my car was bogging down when i would release the gas while driving or reving the engine, so i did a boost leak test and got everything patched up, so i rev the engine again and it bogs again. so i order the recurculating kit and intall it",
 
teamitr said:
well i guess u missed the part:
"Ok so my car was bogging down when i would release the gas while driving or reving the engine, so i did a boost leak test and got everything patched up, so i rev the engine again and it bogs again. so i order the recurculating kit and intall it",
Exactly. And did you change the AFC settings AFTER installing the kit?
 
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