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Quick question [Merged 5-7]

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drmcstroks

15+ Year Contributor
100
0
Jul 23, 2004
crete, Illinois
Did you start a thread and title it "Quick Question"? This is the bin it got thrown into.

Use
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Titles.

Is there a way to tell the difference between a bad MAS or a bad TPS? I really dont want to replace both so any info would help.
 
symptoms are: car hesitates, jerks a little and makes a (dur---dur-dur-dur) during acceleration, not at 4k, but anything over 10lbs boost in any gear. it only happens for maybe 2 seconds but it sounds terrible and its making me lose to my buddies' rsx which aint kool :p

oh ya... i do have a CEL for a defective cat (cause i dont have one), but other than that no codes
 
You should probably try changing you plugs and wires if they are not new already. Sounds like it could possibly be a "dead spot" in your TPS. Boost leak check couldn't hurt either.:talon:
 
boost leak test came out negative, i have changed the plug wires before which did fix the problem for about 5 months but now its just doin the same thing as before so im back to square one. as for the plugs themselves, they look good (and gaped at .028) so i dunno. and my full setup is in my profile and is up to date.
 
How long did you hold 20 psi during your boost leak test?
What kind of spark plugs are you using? If you're still using those denso plugs, then get rid of those and put in some NGK BPR 6ES plugs.
If you're still using the hacked MAS, try replacing the honey combing.
Try Adjusting your TPS.
Ohm your coil pack's primary and secondary coil's resistance.
 
when i took the honey comb out and adjusted the screw it got a little better, instead of acting up at about 10psi it went to about 15psi. ill get the plugs when i get home (im at WIU for the weekend.) the ones i have now are the damn $65 denso iridiums and they dont seem to be fouled, but ill change em anyway. about what should the the primary and secondary coil resistance be at? held like 22 psi for about 15 minutes then i just disconnected everything.

ps when the car started acting up, it also started running REALLY rich during heavy acceleration.
 
my experience with other plugs has been that they run alright for a little while, then start to get worse.

Test the TPS. I believe the idle voltage should be .5 volts (+/- .02 volts), not 0. At least those are the numbers for a 1G.

It should move smoothly up and down. If it hangs at the wrong voltage it is not working properly.
 
Just out of curiousity, do you have the 2nd o2 sensor connected into the exhaust or is it just hanging out there??

If possible to eliminate different problems, if possible if you have a local DSMer that has a 2g with the 2g maf, borrow it real quick and change it out with yours. If it still acts up then you know its not the MAF.

Personally to me it sounds like a spark issue but could be many other things.
 
the only thing i dont get is... the plugs and wires i have on now only have 15k miles on them so why would they be bad? those plugs were $60 so ima throw a fit if they're bad already LOL. and the other thing i dont get is how come the car started running really rich all of a sudden.
 
Anything but NGK's has the potential to run like crap. I did a tune up just after buying my car and, not knowing any better, put in Bosch Platinums. They ran pretty well for almost 1K miles, but then started causing problems. They looked absolutely fine, but as soon as I switched to NGK's my car ran much better.

It's a cheap test anyway. Less than $10.
 
make sure, if you care is pretty much stock, get the NGK BPR6ES and not the BPR7ES. Had a friend do that before put the 7's in a pretty much stock car and it ran like total crap.. you dont need the colder plugs till you get some serious mods on your car.

let us know how it goes.
 
i got the plugs and i feels like it made the problem worse. and the old ones didnt look fouled, there was a little buildup but nothin that should be causing this problem. when i get the new wires i have a feeling it will fix it cause thats what i had to do the last time i had this problem, the thing is i dont wanna get get new plugs/wires every 6 months so i dunno.
 
I managed to cut the rear motor mount out and the new prothane kit only has an insert for that mount. Will a 92 awd rear motor mount be the same since mine isn't reusable anymore or are they different?
 
I just had some Prothane Engine Motor Mount installed on my talon, A friend told me I should have also done the transmission mounts too is he correct?


thank you
Paul
 
It's not complete necessary but it does help to balance everything out. If you install one side prothane, it shakes more violently then having both sides installed.

So to your answer your question, it's not necessary but it does help.
 
ok guys... i replaced the plugs and wires, ohmed the coil pack (within spec), checked for boost leaks (a couple around the bov but thats it) and i still have the problem. bad injector maybe? i really dont know.
 
oh sorry... i did fix the leaks and it held 25psi for an hour, then i got bored and disconnected everything. the tps voltage seems normal, i forgot the exact numbers, but it did move smoothly up and down. btw... i turned the boost down to 15psi and it seems like it helped a little. it only really seems to happen past 11-12psi of boost.
 
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