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Eliminating Wheel Hop on a gs-t?

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hdawg06

Probationary Member
9
0
Oct 8, 2005
s, Kansas
What mods would I need to eliminate wheel hop on my GS-T? I run the following:

Small 16g turbo-Ported with 34mm wastegate flapper
Walbro 190 fuel pump
Steel braided oil feed line to turbo
2g install kit
Hallman MBC
K&N intake (FIPK)
Dave Brode Upper IC pipe with 1g bov
2.5" Archer racing Downpipe and Mach V test pipe
2.5" catback with SS Dynomax UltraFlo muffler
ACT 2100 clutch
Apex-I S-AFC fuel controller
Stock Injectors(Sigh).

I run about low 14, high 13s and have major wheel hop when launching. I also deflated my front tires to 18psi, but that didn't help much. Is there any suspension mods that might be good and not too expensive to elimate the wheel hop from this car, and please don't say buy a GSX
 
How much would they cost? Also, since I would probaly not be able to install them myself, how much does the install cost?
 
$60-$70 for the motor mounts, if you go to a shop they will likely charge $100-$150 to install them, the two important modifications to prevent wheel hop to me are poly motor mounts and poly control arm bushings, then the car will spin the tires/slicks like if it was on ice:D
 
Launch at a lower RPM or buy a GSX! Just kidding. When you break traction on launch you're only spinning one wheel. The best solution to your problem would be a good suspension system w/ poly motor mounts and this...http://www.slowboyracing.com/more.php?id=1241&
If that combo doesn't fix your problem...well...buy a GSX!
A Quaif LSD or even a KAZZ would be your best solution but they're quite expencive.
:dsm:
 
How much boost you gona run? If below 18psi or so then Motor mount inserts should eliminate all if not some wheel hop.

If you plan to boost 20+ psi I suggest on your next clutch job to get LSD. This way you don't pay twice for labor because they going to have to open the tranny for the clutch and they can drop in that bad boy.:thumb:

Also BFGs Drag radials can eliminate wheel hop without needing inserts or LSD but nobody can afford drag radials on everyday use :p But I still recommend em with LSD + Inserts but use em for track days only so they last you for long time.
 
I currently run 16psi. I think I will turn it up higher when I get my bigger injectors and a bigger turbo. My turbo atm is alright, but I really want to beat my friends WS6 T/A, but keep on losing by about 1.5cars. I think that the wheel hop will really give me the edge over him, because he burns rubber from 1-2nd gear.
 
sometimes stock motor mounts can be a pain, if you cant get them out, burn them out with a torch...and im not kidding. my 1g motor mount inserts are 2 piece, and has a metal cylinder that goes through them. i dont know the case on 2gs, but likely the same? can someone clear that up?
 
I dremeled the inside metal ring in the motor mount, cut a V in it and it popped right out. Of course that was after the mallet and screwdriver to the rubber. hehe
 
Good adjustable shocks helped out a lot as well. (KYB AGX) and Eibach sportline springs. Helps stop body weight transfer. As for the motor mounts you want to press out those outer rings when removing the mounts. I had my friend do it at work here so it was free but any machine shop can do it quite quickly.
 
Upper shock bushings , motor mount incerts and lower control arm bushings.
http://roadraceengineering.com/eclsuspension.htm

Thanks for the link, Dave. From the above link, what do you guys reccomend? The Energy Suspension bushings? Or the even stiffer Prothane Bushings? Road/Race says the Prothane kit includes more suspension bushings than the Energy Suspension kit. Well, I don't know if I to change all the suspension bushings. Really, I only want to change the bushings that will help my tires hook up for straight line performance. Obviously, this means all the motor mount bushings, but what suspension bushings should be included as well? Not trying to thread-jack, but I'd love to hear everybody's thoughts on this...
 
sometimes stock motor mounts can be a pain, if you cant get them out, burn them out with a torch...and im not kidding. my 1g motor mount inserts are 2 piece, and has a metal cylinder that goes through them. i dont know the case on 2gs, but likely the same? can someone clear that up?
When I did mine on my 2g it also had the metal ring on the inside, but the outside piece is aluminum so you have to be a little more careful with them. On my aunt's 1g I just used an air hammer, LOL.
 
Well with my last year setup: evoIII @ 18-22 psi, urthane motor mounts, Tokico lowering springs, Tokico Illumina adjustable shocks & Quaife LSD I have never once had wheel hop on the streets. Now at the track is a completely different story, no matter what I did I would always get massive wheel hop in second at around 5000 rpms or so & that was with feathering the throttle. It was a very cool day when I went to the track so Im hoping that had something to do with it plus my tires werent great. I guess I will find out in the spring when I give the new turbo a run & have new tires. Hopefully I will see an improvement, if not I would say slicks or drag raidals are going to be the only way to get rid of it. A dual stage boost controller will also do wonders (mine was back for repair again when I went to the track, so that didn't help things either)
 
Thanks for the link, Dave. From the above link, what do you guys reccomend? The Energy Suspension bushings? Or the even stiffer Prothane Bushings? Road/Race says the Prothane kit includes more suspension bushings than the Energy Suspension kit. Well, I don't know if I to change all the suspension bushings. Really, I only want to change the bushings that will help my tires hook up for straight line performance. Obviously, this means all the motor mount bushings, but what suspension bushings should be included as well? Not trying to thread-jack, but I'd love to hear everybody's thoughts on this...

If this is your daily driver then I would not recommend the complete Prothane kit. Although they work well for the intended purpose they dramatically increase ride harshness.
 
If this is your daily driver then I would not recommend the complete Prothane kit. Although they work well for the intended purpose they dramatically increase ride harshness.

See thats what I thought... I don't want to make the daily grind unbearable (this is my daily driver), so I'll be going with the Energy Suspension bushings. Do you think I should get the Energy Suspension bushings for just the front or all four corners?
 
I filled my motor mounts with window weld and pieces of a cutting board. But I can't seem to find the link for you. It ran me about 15 bucks. I have no wheel hop now. The car however vibrates like mad at idle now, mirrors all shake. I dont mind it but some people probably would.
 
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