loud knocking sound

[danny_l_2005]

ok i just finished installing my 14b on my 2g. Before i even installed it my t 25 went out on me too much shaft play. While it still had shaft play my oil pressure went from normal to low. But everything worked good except the turbo which made the car smoke bad after a month with my oil pressure low. Ok just finish installing the 14b its been a month since I took the oil out so the car was without oil and coolant for a month. pressure is still low at idle the pressure is just barely on top of the line low. going 50 its in between low and medium, at wot which i did for a several seconds barely went to medium. Before the oil pressure at wot was like even a little bit higher than 3/4 now i don't know why its been lower than normal. Ok today after priming the turbo 2 15 sec crank to build oil pressure, I took it for a test drive (don't have wg actuator yet). I would go to more than 2k rpm and i would here loud knocking sound i think i came from my lifters it was kinda loud. Loud enough to hear it going 50. I never had this sound before and like i said my motor had no oil or coolant for a month. My new oil is at full capacity on the pan. Does any one know why i can hear those loud knocking sound? Oil starvation? need new oil pump?

 

[92awddsm]

ok i just finished installing my 14b on my 2g. Before i even installed it my t 25 went out on me too much shaft play. While it still had shaft play my oil pressure went from normal to low. But everything worked good except the turbo which made the car smoke bad after a month with my oil pressure low. Ok just finish installing the 14b its been a month since I took the oil out so the car was without oil and coolant for a month. pressure is still low at idle the pressure is just barely on top of the line low. going 50 its in between low and medium, at wot which i did for a several seconds barely went to medium. Before the oil pressure at wot was like even a little bit higher than 3/4 now i don't know why its been lower than normal. Ok today after priming the turbo 2 15 sec crank to build oil pressure, I took it for a test drive (don't have wg actuator yet). I would go to more than 2k rpm and i would here loud knocking sound i think i came from my lifters it was kinda loud. Loud enough to hear it going 50. I never had this sound before and like i said my motor had no oil or coolant for a month. My new oil is at full capacity on the pan. Does any one know why i can hear those loud knocking sound? Oil starvation? need new oil pump?

Well, after driving a month on a blown turbo, the particles from the worn turbo bearings probably circulated through the engine destroying the main and rod bearings. Now, the knock you hear is probably from a rod bearing that has spun due to the wear. I wouldnt even crank it up until you pull the pan and see if thats the problem. And even if the oil pump went bad, by the time you hear the knock, its too late for just a simple fix.

 

[danny_l_2005]

the loud knock is coming from the head not from the block i can hear it coming from the valve cover i think its the lifters but what do i know? this is why i asked if its might be low oil pressure that does not feed my lifters or cams enough so it sounds loud knocking noises after 2k rpm sometimes 3k rpm and above. Also when i took out the oil a month ago it did not have a small particles in there my t25 and bad seals and shaft play which made it smoke. does anyone else know what might also be the problem?

 

[danny_l_2005]

Ok so lets say if i destroyed my main and rod bearings what do i have to do to fix this? Is it expensive to fix? What do i tell my mechanic to look at? will i need a rebuild? before i even took my old turbo off a month ago i didn't have this problem. would of having my car sit for a month with out oil or coolant had also make a cause of the problem?

 

[olmytsi]

Lifters tick, they dont knock.

 

[RotaryRyan]

You sound like you are having the same problem as me. My knocking sound is very noisy under load. if i get up next to a wall while driving its very noticeable. Or if i fluctuate rpms in neutral.

Now, first i tried the lifters. i bought some 3g revised lifters. They did nothing. So i have decided that it is some bearing down there. See, my balance shaft bearing blew a while back and the metal shavings went everywhere (is what I'm thinking). Now its causing these bearing(s) to go.

My solution??? Well i bought a 6bolt and I'm dropping that in.

BTW, my sound sounded like it was coming from the head too, but Ive prettymuch decided its not. the sound can trick you.

 

[danny_l_2005]

its more really like a really loud tick but how do i find out if i spun my rod bearings? and how bad is that will i need a rebuild or just buy new bearings and replace the old ones? well i don't have enough money to buy a 6bolt and drop it in. what can rod bearings worsen? should i look at my new oil i dropped in today for any metal shavings? this is my dd and i need to fix this fast

 

[huafist]

You'd better not so much as even CRANK it until you figure out what the problem is. The only way to check the rod bearings for sure is to drop the oil pan and pop the caps off to look.

 

[kikkinbac]

Ok so the car sat with out the oil for like a month which means you had nothing to lube the bearings when you started it up again you should have primed the engine before starting it as now you might have tore up some bearings due to lack of oil on start up. best thing to due is pull the pan not just look at the oil on the dipstick. the particals that would be in there would be sitting at the bottom of the pan. when you changed your oil what did it look like?

 

[Defiant]

the loud knock is coming from the head not from the block

You think. My money's on a scrapped balance shaft bearing.

 

[ddavisaf]

its more really like a really loud tick but how do i find out if i spun my rod bearings? and how bad is that will i need a rebuild or just buy new bearings and replace the old ones? well i don't have enough money to buy a 6bolt and drop it in. what can rod bearings worsen? should i look at my new oil i dropped in today for any metal shavings? this is my dd and i need to fix this fast

If you're really concerned about your car, which you really don't seem to be, you would pull the pan. The first reply you had on here from 92awddsm said to pull the pan. Why do people ask help then either ignore it or argue it? ESPECIALLY when they don't know what the hell is wrong with their car......

The only way you will even be able to start troubleshooting is be pulling the pan. If you're knocking as bad as you're describing then there will be debris in your pan. Get a catch can with a screen on it to catch the falling objects and keep an eye on the oil to see if it sparkles (metal shavings).
Your car will get worse if you don't fix it. And like Defiant said, I would be on Balance Shaft Bearings. To find out, drop the pan

 

[danny_l_2005]

i can't remove my oil pan as of right now because i live in south texas like two miles close to the mexican border and hurricane emily is passing through so its wet outside alot of wind alot of rain so when im gonna have do this will be probably this weekend when its dry. So I take out the oil then the oil pan and look at the rod bearings. How should they look like? defiant how do i check if my balance shaft bearing is ok? if its the messed up should i do that balance shaft removal?

 

[danny_l_2005]

how would you prime the bearings on the engine? because i cranked the engine for 2 15 second cranks to prime the turbo does that prime the engine too? or was there another way to prime the bearings

 

[danny_l_2005]

ok as today my driveway was dry i took off my oil pan and as of you guys expected i do have copper color metal shavings on my pan also there is little chunks of pieces of copper. So now what do i do? How do i inspect my rod bearings or my main bearings? Do i have to do a rebuilt or just change the bearings? Im gonna let my local mechanic to do this as i don't have much experience to do it. Will it be expensive as of fixing this or should i just go a get a new used motor?

 

[ddavisaf]

If you're unsure as to what to be looking for then you're doing the right thing, taking it to a mechanic. I don't have any pictures, but I'm sure other people do and they'll post them as to rod /main /balance shaft bearing wear.

Unfortunately, it will be a little pricey. Dealerships charge a minimum of 500 to pull a motor and 500 to put one in.... usually. Some places are different, I know, don't start posting your areas prices.... anyway. It's alot easier to work on your BS bearings with the motor out of the car so be prepared for that. While it's being done, get a BS Eliminator Kit, it'll save you alot of headache in the future...
As to your question of priming.... the way to prime a turbo is the same for priming a motor.

What you should probably do is try and get us some pictures so we can personally see how badly damaged the motor is. That's the only way we can really offer advice on a rebuild or a replacement.

 

[Dream On]

To me, it would sound like a good time to drop in a 6 bolt.

 

[danny_l_2005]

well here are some pictures i took a little while ago of my oil pan if the pictures don't come out let me know

 

[GSTinCO]

well here are some pictures i took a little while ago of my oil pan if the pictures don't come out let me know

Man those metal shavings in the pan don't look so good. Time for a 6 bolt?

 

[danny_l_2005]

why is it always a 6 bolt. Don't i have less chances to crankwalk on a 7bolt using automatic than standard? My car is auto and i would not like to go with a 6 bolt because if i buy a used 6 bolt i don't know what is the condition of that motor. I would not want a engine that has alot of mileage on it which i would later need to rebuild. I am looking to rebuild my motor. Should i buy a rebuild kit from SBR or Machv or should i just buy the parts i need such as the main and rod bearings, bs bearing and oil pump? In total how much would it cost to buy rebuild kit and labor?

 

[92awddsm]

why is it always a 6 bolt. Don't i have less chances to crankwalk on a 7bolt using automatic than standard? My car is auto and i would not like to go with a 6 bolt because if i buy a used 6 bolt i don't know what is the condition of that motor. I would not want a engine that has alot of mileage on it which i would later need to rebuild. I am looking to rebuild my motor. Should i buy a rebuild kit from SBR or Machv or should i just buy the parts i need such as the main and rod bearings, bs bearing and oil pump? In total how much would it cost to buy rebuild kit and labor?

Well, an engine doesnt care if its auto, manual, 6 bolt or 7 bolt. It can crankwalk regardless.

You can rebuild a 7 bolt and be goood but then again, it can cw. Its a 50/50 chance that it will happen. As far as the rebuild, you will need the kit(Im sure you already priced it), a crank if it was a main or rod bearing(you still havent determined if it was this or bs bearing), and about $150-500 in machine work. Then, you would either have to asseble it yourself or pay another $200-500 for assembly. Also, the r&r of the engine will probably cost $300-700, depending on where you go. Now, what is it worth to you? evidently, its screwed so now you have to start making decisions on your own.

 

[danny_l_2005]

ok so before i start deciding on buy a rebuild kit and fixing it how do i make sure if its my main and rod bearings or the bs bearing. So what do i have to do to see if its my bs bearing? I don't want to buy the kit and go through many trouble and money just to find out that it was only the bs bearing

 

[rkarkosh]

My motor did the same thing this spring. I thought the clatter was from the head but then it threw a rod and I learned better. The front balance shaft had lost a bearing which cause low oil pressure like you described, then fine metal shavings circulated thourghout the motor destroying rod and main bearings. I think the bad news here is that your engine is toast. Pull the timing belt cover and remove the front BS belt and try wiggling the BS. If the bearing is lost the shaft will have lots of play. A warning here for all new DSMers - the first component to receive oil in a 4g63 is the front BS. If the front BS loses a bearing the oil will flow out the oil journal back to the pan which will result in very low oil pressure. Low oil pressure should always be taken seriously. Do what I am doing and when you rebuild your motor replace the BS's with an elimination kit.

 

[danny_l_2005]

so how do i actually inspect my rod bearings? Do i take off the the rod caps one by one and inspect them?

 

[Arod]

If you spun a rod bearing you will be able to tell without taking anything off. Just grab onto each one and try to move them back and forth. One of them will probably move a lot more than the other ones, that one spun the bearing. The crank will need ground down and possible welded if it is really bad and by the looks of the pan it will be really bad you shouldn't have been driving the car like that!! You will also want to have the block hot washed to get the crap out of it.

 

[hellotbone]

If you spun a rod bearing you will be able to tell without taking anything off. Just grab onto each one and try to move them back and forth. One of them will probably move a lot more than the other ones, that one spun the bearing. The crank will need ground down and possible welded if it is really bad and by the looks of the pan it will be really bad you shouldn't have been driving the car like that!! You will also want to have the block hot washed to get the crap out of it.

Crank Grinding = Bad