Replaced clutch & flywheel and now clutch wont disengage, please help!

[jrpmp69]

I just replaced a completely worn ACT 2100 lbs clutch and cracked stock flywheel with another ACT 2100 lbs clutch and Fidanza flywheel and now the clutch wont disengage at all. I bought a longer slave cylinder rod but it didnt seem to have done anything except not allow the clutch to fully engage. I tried adjusting the clutch pedal and seems to have worked a litle bit but now i need to step on the pedal past the disengagin point till it hits the floor in order for the clutch to fully disengage, so now i have problems taking off because that litle extra that i push the pedal comes out fast and causes the car to hop and almost stall. I was wondering if any of you have experienced this problem after replacing the clutch and flywheel and if you can help me fix the problem or even figure out what the problem is?
Thanks.

 

[szewczyd]

I am in the process of putting a spec clutch and fidanza flywheel in my car and now you got me very nervous. I am going to use the stock slave cyclinder rod if I can, I didn't think I had to get a different one, Anyone please help us out, am I going to get myself into any trouble?

 

[jrpmp69]

Does anyone know the difference between the flywheel for a 7 bolt FWD and a 7 bolt AWD? There might be a problem if they sent me the wronf flywheel.

 

[procircuit1250]

AWD flywheels are smaller than FWD flywheels. If you have an AWD flywheel on a FWD car, then when you tried to start it the starter motor would just spin and not catch the teeth on the flywheel.

 

[ThunderValley]

I'm having the same problem as you. Replaced a leaking slave cylinder, adjusted clutch pedal and bled the system several times with no luck. After researching the problem, I have come to the conclusion that my clutch fork is bent or the ball it rides on is worn out, most likely both, not allowing full throw of the fork to disengage the clutch. You can check this by seeing if the fork can move any further by "prying" on it when a buddy pushes in the clutch for you. If you can't move it any farther the ball is worn or the fork is bent. Good Luck

 

[johnsheehan2006]

Everyone says (and i have to do it to mine right now also) With any ACT clutch you have to shim the pivot ball out 1/8-1/4 inch. Im not sure why exactly but everyone ends up having to do it. So if all else fails give that a try. Good luck

 

[AL92]

Can you take out the pivot ball thru the fork boot or do you have to pull the trans off the engine to do it..? Sounds simple enough but in reality would be a huge pain in the butt.And does using a longer slave rod do the same thing as shimming the pivot ball?Since its much easier to throw slave rod extension on there.

 

[oldman]

All you guys having the same problem needs to double check the following.

1. Your bleeding prcedure/method, assuming you have already bled the system, proper bleeding is crucial after a clutch install.

2. All 1G guys needs to check the clutch pedal for wear. Step on the clutch and allow it to come back up by itself, if you can pull it up more after it stops, the pedal assembly needs to be removed and welded.

3. Check the conditions of your master and slave as well as the rubber clutch line, upgrading to a SS clutch line should be part of a performance/heavier clutch install.

4. Extended slave rods as well as shimming the pivot ball are just bandages and should only be used as a last resort after all else failed. Using the extended rod, shim on pivot or welding a nut to your matercylinder for further adjustments can all facilitate early death of the slave cylinder and should only be used in extreme cases. If you absolutely must use the slave extended rod, bleed the system with the stock rod then carfully swap the extended rod in without allowing the slave cylinder to retract.

Hope this helps somebody, good luck guys.