How do I make / buy / use / troubleshoot a boost leak tester? [merged] - Page 18

Mytrn2brn · 01-29-2007, 12:45 PM

Oh the LICP that will make thing much easier. Please keep the help coming as you can see i could use all that I can get.
I start at the TB and work my way back. Also i thought i did pretty good building the tester but if you guys know a better design that the one in the FAQ"S i guess i'll try to put together another.

Thanks Guys

Mytrn2brn · 01-29-2007, 12:53 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by romeen

Here it is:

Boost Leak Check Device, an alternative

Works perfectly. I did use a higher pressure guage.
Good Luck.

That's looks petty good and it looks like it going to cost more that $8 bucks to make oh well if it works better. I have seen all the part for that one at Home Depot but the gauge, where can i get that gauge. well back to work.

romeen · 01-29-2007, 12:56 PM

By far the best way to identify the location of the leaks is to spray soapy water over all couplers, joints, etc. and look for the telltale bubbles.

romeen · 01-29-2007, 12:59 PM

Mine cost $14 but worth every penny. HD had the guage as well, it was intended for use in natural gas setups. But I later stumbled upon a cheaper one at ACE Hardware.

Mytrn2brn · 01-29-2007, 01:03 PM

Had the soapy water since the beginning.

Another $14. well if it work

FORMONTOYA · 01-29-2007, 01:05 PM

I personally have not been to concerned with having a gauge on the test piece. If you set your regulator on the compressor to your test pressure, then it will not be a concern as to "if you're going to over pressurize the system" unless the set point is way up there (but 15PSI is NOT too much). Once a good regulator is set, it will not allow any more pressure than the "set point" to enter the system.

I test mine to 25PSI and it will hold more than long enough for me to check the boost gauge to see how fast it might be falling. I (and you) will know if it's leaking or not without looking at a gauge. My tester is nothing more than a 1-1/2" PVC cap with a tire stem in it (cost $3), it fits inside of a 2-1/4" coupler. I use one of the coupler clamps to attach it.

But it's definitely your call as to how you want to make one.

96gstdsm · 01-31-2007, 10:42 AM

Ok i'm going to make a boost leak tester. What size coupler do i need to fit up to my stock t-25? Would i need to change it if i upgrade my turbo? Or are the inlets the same size? I am going to upgrade to 14b, t-25 or evo316g shortly as my turbo is starting to whine, unless i am lucky and the boost leak test shows it is just a leak. It just connects up to the turbo correct? Just take off the intake and then attach there?
Please let me know. Thanks alot.
--Ryan,

deletrius · 01-31-2007, 02:11 PM

i believe it is 2.5", and the evo3 and 14b use the same size inlet. and if you can do this test then you can go out and measure it yourself. but anyways http://www.vfaq.com/mods/ICtester.html Yes, you take off your intake pipe and put this over the turbo inlet.

romeen · 01-31-2007, 05:03 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by deletrius

i believe it is 2.5", and the evo3 and 14b use the same size inlet. and if you can do this test then you can go out and measure it yourself. but anyways http://www.vfaq.com/mods/ICtester.html Yes, you take off your intake pipe and put this over the turbo inlet.

The o.d. of the compressor inlet on all the 16G turbos is 58mm which is about 2.25". The 14b has a smaller compressor inlet. I'm not sure about the inlet of the T25 but I think it is smaller than 2.5". Better to just go ahead and measure it.

96gstdsm · 01-31-2007, 08:54 PM

Ok thanks alot guys. Yeah i didn't have time to check it earlier as i was at work and just wanted to buy the parts online to make one. Yeah just read the vfaq article. My bad. Was in a hurry and couldn't think at the moment.
Guess i'll hit up home depot in the morning.

kenamond · 01-31-2007, 10:38 PM

The T-25 and FPB28 inlets are 2.125" OD. A 2.5" coupler is okay for both.

There is a superior boost leak tester design out there if you're interested (more expensive, though)...but I have to go find the link.

kenamond · 01-31-2007, 10:49 PM

Here's one alternative. I know there's another but I haven't found it yet...

Boost leak test how to with boostpro.net tester

kenamond · 01-31-2007, 10:54 PM

Here it is!

Boost Leak Check Device, an alternative

The nice thing about these is that you don't need to have someone watch your boost gauge for you.

PieEyedPiper · 01-31-2007, 11:15 PM

It is my opinion that you should not pressure test at the turbo inlet, but rather, at the intercooler inlet. Also have the oil cap off, as per oldman's suggestion.

pro's
-cuts out the middle man (turbo) which can stop you from building any pressure due to bad seals or just seals that don't really seal until there is oil pressure from the engine running
-will not exacerbate leaking seals on your turbo

con's
-you can't test your lower licp for leaks, but I think a little common sense can overcome that

romeen · 02-01-2007, 02:06 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by PieEyedPiper

It is my opinion that you should not pressure test at the turbo inlet, but rather, at the intercooler inlet. Also have the oil cap off, as per oldman's suggestion.

pro's
-cuts out the middle man (turbo) which can stop you from building any pressure due to bad seals or just seals that don't really seal until there is oil pressure from the engine running
-will not exacerbate leaking seals on your turbo

con's
-you can't test your lower licp for leaks, but I think a little common sense can overcome that

You do have a point although I have never had a problem testing at compressor inlet.
Instead of removing oil cap I disconnect PCV from VC but leave it hooked to IM. That way I can tell if my PCV is leaking (which never happens on our cars, right?

) and I wont accidentally pressurize my crankcase.

TSIMonsteR · 02-01-2007, 11:39 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by DSMunknown

So what? As long as the BISS hole is plugged up, I see no reason to worry about an old o-ring (or wasting time trying to find one that fits).

The cap costs $3 from Advanced Auto Parts... cheaper then a bottle of RTV and lasts basically forever, unless lost.

PieEyedPiper · 02-01-2007, 12:54 PM

Thats a good idea too.
I'll have to try that, just be careful not to crack your VC with overtightening the PCV.

deletrius · 02-01-2007, 01:01 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by romeen

The o.d. of the compressor inlet on all the 16G turbos is 58mm which is about 2.25". The 14b has a smaller compressor inlet. I'm not sure about the inlet of the T25 but I think it is smaller than 2.5". Better to just go ahead and measure it.

Quote:

Originally Posted by kenamond

The T-25 and FPB28 inlets are 2.125" OD. A 2.5" coupler is okay for both.

There is a superior boost leak tester design out there if you're interested (more expensive, though)...but I have to go find the link.

That's what I was thinking, just couldn't say it correctly. Thanks

snowborder714 · 06-09-2008, 09:49 AM

Yes, it will work, but line from the bov to the intake manifold should not be teed in to. You should be getting your boost source from the turbo, the j pipe, or the lower intercooler pipe.

jw_55_55 · 06-09-2008, 01:28 PM

Well i made a boost leak tester out of a 2.5"-3" coupler so it would fit on my turbo. Now the problem that i am having is im not seeing any boost on my boost gauge when im trying to pressurize the system. i have no boost controller just running of my ext. gate.
things i have tried-

-bump the starter to move the valves

-spray soapy water on all couplers to see if i can see anything leaking out

-also checked to see if my bike pump was pushing air through the coupler which it is

so what do i do next to trouble shoot??