DSM Jeff
15+ Year Contributor
- 558
- 6
- Jun 23, 2003
-
~,
Connecticut
Full 2g Auto Swap for a 6 bolt. I will not separate! Please check this link, Auto pictures by Built2Drive - Photobucket for pictures of parts, of everything installed, ect. This should be everything needed to go from 5 speed to auto, including nuts and bolts. From what I gather autos are the new hotness when going to the track. These parts may need some inspection, but is a great start to get you swapped over.
Im selling a full auto swap out of a 95. The car had 150k on it when I got it as a shell. The car was a stock car that spun a bearing. Previous owner pulled the engine, and lost interest. I took it after a few years of sitting and threw a 6bolt in it after cleaning up the engine bay. I got the car running and after a drive found it needed front wheel bearings. Further investigation and removing the interior lead me to find rust and rott. The back half of the car was so bad I decided not to put another dime into it. So Ive ripped the car apart and will be heading to the scrap yard. I did put all new gaskets in the trans along with fluid bought from JNZ. There is a shift kit, kiggly adapter for a 6 bolt and 95 6bolt swap harness for the CAS.
I put about a mile on the car. The trans seemed to shift through all gears. I did not beat on it as it was only through my neighborhood. The car was a running, daily driven car before the engine failure.
So heres what Im selling;
Transmission- I did installed a Trans lab shift kit, new filter, new pan gasket, new axle seals and new pump seal. I did put brand new Mitsu fluid into it. You can see in the pics Ive drained and saved it along with an unused quart and a half (note, I will find a better container for the fluid) Ive relocated the stock cooler to the passenger side and made brackets so you can set up the stock I/c ducting to the cooler. Front and rear mounts along with side mount, Speedo sensor. Starter and intermediate shaft.
Transfer case- This has a new input seal and new output seal.
Kiggly 6 bolt to 7bolt auto trans adapter. Kiggly 6 bolt flex plate, dowels and crank ring. Ive included the new 6bolt auto bolts I bought from JNZ and stock torque converter bolts. A new starter plate and inspection cover (both from JNZ)
Youll get both the engine harness and fuse box harness. I do have the dash with harness, although Im not sure if thats need. The TCU is there as well. Ive pulled the gas, brake pedal, shift linkage and steering column to include. Ive also saved pretty much every bolt used
Rear diff this is a non-lsd diff. Some prefer the lsd, but at least this can get you started. You may need to pick up a new axle seal for the passenger side. I got a little wreckless removing the axle and damaged it.
(Please note, the engine wire harness, I relocated the transistor pack to the firewall and relocated the connectors for the cas to above the side trans mount. All the upper firewall solenoids are still there, but taped up. Also a new alt connector is needed. I picked up one, after connecting it, the lock would not lock. It all works, but doesnt stay secure. This car ran for about 30 minutes and driven for maybe a mile. The whole rear half of the car was rotted out. I never looked too close until the interior came out. Rather then waste more of my time)
Please PM me if interested. Im located in Danbury, CT. Id be willing to drive and meet up pending distance. If you do want me to drive more then an hour, Paypal me some gas money before hand. Im not about to drive somewhere and not have someone show up. Will not ship
Price: $750 OBO
Im selling a full auto swap out of a 95. The car had 150k on it when I got it as a shell. The car was a stock car that spun a bearing. Previous owner pulled the engine, and lost interest. I took it after a few years of sitting and threw a 6bolt in it after cleaning up the engine bay. I got the car running and after a drive found it needed front wheel bearings. Further investigation and removing the interior lead me to find rust and rott. The back half of the car was so bad I decided not to put another dime into it. So Ive ripped the car apart and will be heading to the scrap yard. I did put all new gaskets in the trans along with fluid bought from JNZ. There is a shift kit, kiggly adapter for a 6 bolt and 95 6bolt swap harness for the CAS.
I put about a mile on the car. The trans seemed to shift through all gears. I did not beat on it as it was only through my neighborhood. The car was a running, daily driven car before the engine failure.
So heres what Im selling;
Transmission- I did installed a Trans lab shift kit, new filter, new pan gasket, new axle seals and new pump seal. I did put brand new Mitsu fluid into it. You can see in the pics Ive drained and saved it along with an unused quart and a half (note, I will find a better container for the fluid) Ive relocated the stock cooler to the passenger side and made brackets so you can set up the stock I/c ducting to the cooler. Front and rear mounts along with side mount, Speedo sensor. Starter and intermediate shaft.
Transfer case- This has a new input seal and new output seal.
Kiggly 6 bolt to 7bolt auto trans adapter. Kiggly 6 bolt flex plate, dowels and crank ring. Ive included the new 6bolt auto bolts I bought from JNZ and stock torque converter bolts. A new starter plate and inspection cover (both from JNZ)
Youll get both the engine harness and fuse box harness. I do have the dash with harness, although Im not sure if thats need. The TCU is there as well. Ive pulled the gas, brake pedal, shift linkage and steering column to include. Ive also saved pretty much every bolt used
Rear diff this is a non-lsd diff. Some prefer the lsd, but at least this can get you started. You may need to pick up a new axle seal for the passenger side. I got a little wreckless removing the axle and damaged it.
(Please note, the engine wire harness, I relocated the transistor pack to the firewall and relocated the connectors for the cas to above the side trans mount. All the upper firewall solenoids are still there, but taped up. Also a new alt connector is needed. I picked up one, after connecting it, the lock would not lock. It all works, but doesnt stay secure. This car ran for about 30 minutes and driven for maybe a mile. The whole rear half of the car was rotted out. I never looked too close until the interior came out. Rather then waste more of my time)
Please PM me if interested. Im located in Danbury, CT. Id be willing to drive and meet up pending distance. If you do want me to drive more then an hour, Paypal me some gas money before hand. Im not about to drive somewhere and not have someone show up. Will not ship
Price: $750 OBO
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