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head knocking after head gasket replacement

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lowcountryspyder

Probationary Member
12
0
May 5, 2013
okatie, South Carolina
Hey guys, long time lurker first time poster.. I recently acquired a 98 spyder GS. It was blowing coolant/oil out of the exhaust to which I traced to a head gasket.. I had the head cleaned/decked and new valve guide seals installed at my local machine shop. (They shaved it 6 thousandths). Upon reinstalling everything it had a nasty valve tap (more of knock really) so I started my research to which I replaced all of the valve adjusters.. 2 of them had slight damage and the stem of 1 valve had a slight amount of "gouging". About 10 swipes with a fine file cleaned the stem to like new.. Put it all back together and its quieter but still there loud and clear... It was quiet as a house mouse before this endeavor.. I am so frustrated with it I am contemplating putting a new engine in and being done with it, but I don't have the funds or time right now to do it.. any help or advice is extremely appreciated..


Thanks in advance


ETA:
I checked the timing about 6 times before installing the belts as well so I don't think its off time..
 
Last edited:
When you tipped the valve, you may have taken it below min tip height. When this happens the HLA can not pump up enough to give you zero lash, causing the follower to "bounce" on the cam
 
Well, after some more phone calls I was told that these heads cannot be decked at all and what I'm hearing is the piston hitting the valve... Any truth to that? I am currently searching for a thicker head gasket to give that a shot (that's what the local mitsu dealer recommended).. anybody know where I can source one?

When you tipped the valve, you may have taken it below min tip height. When this happens the HLA can not pump up enough to give you zero lash, causing the follower to "bounce" on the cam

The noise was present before I tipped the valve.
 
You have a 420a engine? Sounds like a line of bull about surfacing the head.

If the valve was hitting the valve, it would bend, so compression test and leak down would show that.

Also I have surface about 100 or more of the 420a heads over the years, both mitsu and chry styles. Never a report back of that issue.


AREA spec (Automotive Engine Rebuilders Association) for the Mitisubishi 2.0 122 cid Vin Y Eclipse 95-99
New spec is 5.4115-5.4193 (.0072 Hi/lo spec) the min thickness is 5.4035

So that allows a mill of appox .008 to .0158


Also the streaking you filed off the tip was wear, or the wafer tip popped off, either way the valve could be short. tip height need to be checked, and the valve replaced if needed.
 
You have a 420a engine? Sounds like a line of bull about surfacing the head.

If the valve was hitting the valve, it would bend, so compression test and leak down would show that.

Also I have surface about 100 or more of the 420a heads over the years, both mitsu and chry styles. Never a report back of that issue.


AREA spec (Automotive Engine Rebuilders Association) for the Mitisubishi 2.0 122 cid Vin Y Eclipse 95-99
New spec is 5.4115-5.4193 (.0072 Hi/lo spec) the min thickness is 5.4035

So that allows a mill of appox .008 to .0158


Also the streaking you filed off the tip was wear, or the wafer tip popped off, either way the valve could be short. tip height need to be checked, and the valve replaced if needed.



No its a 4g64... I can possibly take video and post it to YouTube tonight... I'm just baffled..
 
Well from what I can see in my book the 16v SOHC 4G64 from 93-04 in the Gallant can be milled .020

The min thickness is 4.712

Head casting numbers G6, G6K2, G6K4, G6K5, G6K6 and K4

Just milled 2 of those last week, called both shops, no issues
 
I reinstalled them and I soaked them in oil for about an hour every once in awhile I would "squish" them to load them up... they were dripping wet when put In....


I guess this might be the perfect time to dohc swap it though... just don't know exactly what all is involved with it as far as wiring goes...
 
Thats the issue then, you do not soak in oil, and you use a paper clip to depress the check valve and pump all the oil out.

Then when the engine is back together, oil pressure fills them, and pushes the air out, and they settle into place.
 
OK so pull it back apart and use a paper clip to pump all oil out and then reinstall? I did notice on the old ones I could not squish them but the new ones I could easily...
 
I'll give it a shot tonight or tomorrow and post up how it does..

So I pulled the rocker arm shafts last night and pumped the adjusters as instructed. Upon reinstalling them one of the bolts that holds the exhaust shaft broke into the head... I'm going to the auto parts store today to get an extractor and see if I can get it out without pulling the head back off and taking it back to the machine shop... I wasnt cranking down on it either... running it in by hand and it just lifted right out... I just can't win with this car!
 
So I finally got around to the broken bolt today... pulled it out with a pair of needle nose pliers... purchased a new bolt.. put it all back together and its even louder than before and puking out white and black smoke through the exhaust!! I have decided to wait a few weeks and buy a new (reman) engine for it and be done... $1800, 3 year unlimited mileage warranty. I am about fed up with this car... If something goes wrong with the engine swap I'm going to push it into the river and claim it to insurance... I am going to add some boost while the new engine is in the stand as well... picked up an entire factory gst "kit" off of craigslist today for $150.. manifold turbo all piping intercooler guages the whole lot...
 
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