Odd whinning noise from engie

[gofast63]

All sensors check out.
Tps is at .63
no leaks
no hesitation when driving
Timing is perfect.

I doubt the tensonser pully could make this loud of noise.


Dsm problem - YouTube

[IRONLUNG]

Seeing that you have that "idle" problem my first guess as with all of these situations would be something to do with the TB sensors, but since you tested all of those, did you check the TB if there is a leak or if the screws are tight on the plate, your throttle cable isn't loose?

It *might* be related to your fuel pump. If the noise is that high pitch whine I hear, and maybe its not sending enough fuel to your engine and it starts to cut out when the rpm's dip. check fuel pressure.

[gofast63]

Originally Posted by IRONLUNG

Seeing that you have that "idle" problem my first guess as with all of these situations would be something to do with the TB sensors, but since you tested all of those, did you check the TB if there is a leak or if the screws are tight on the plate, your throttle cable isn't loose?

It *might* be related to your fuel pump. If the noise is that high pitch whine I hear, and maybe its not sending enough fuel to your engine and it starts to cut out when the rpm's dip. check fuel pressure.

Fuel pressure is at 43 psi

does anyone have any idea?

[gofast63]

I'm still stuck on this

[dsmspickdad]

Transfer case or drive shaft whine?

[Sebba]

Originally Posted by dsmspickdad

Transfer case or drive shaft whine?

While stationary? .

[DSM1G90]

Could it be timing cover whining from rubbing on a pulley?

[gofast63]

Originally Posted by DSM1G90

Could it be timing cover whining from rubbing on a pulley?

All of the covers are off. I'm thinking ignition system......?

[Bo0sTdTsI]

Check your ac compressor

[NordicSaab]

Looks like it only happens during "closed loop" operation. I would guess an O2 sensor. It is probably getting a poor reading.

[gofast63]

Originally Posted by Bo0sTdTsI

Check your ac compressor

I don't a ac compressor.

Originally Posted by NordicSaab

Looks like it only happens during "closed loop" operation. I would guess an O2 sensor. It is probably getting a poor reading.

Up steam o2 checks out.

[Vet-Slayer]

Your timing belt might be too tight.

[rEclipserGST]

What is your timing at? Also, how many psi did your system hold when performing a boost leak?

[gofast63]

timing belt tension is good. i go up to 25 psi when performing a boost leak test and checks out.

Originally Posted by rEclipserGST

What is your timing at? Also, how many psi did your system hold when performing a boost leak?

TDC on timing. 25psi for boost leak test.

[rEclipserGST]

Originally Posted by gofast63

timing belt tension is good. i go up to 25 psi when performing a boost leak test and checks out.




TDC on timing. 25psi for boost leak test.

What is TDC on timing? Your answer should be more like 5 to 10.

*Edit* Didn't see you have an SAFC, that may be your problem haha. Verify all the settings via the instruction manual. Arrow Upwards & to the right, 4 cylinder.

My guess is your base timing is off.

[gofast63]

Originally Posted by rEclipserGST

What is TDC on timing? Your answer should be more like 5 to 10.

*Edit* Didn't see you have an SAFC, that may be your problem haha. Verify all the settings via the instruction manual. Arrow Upwards & to the right, 4 cylinder.

My guess is your base timing is off.

I'll check it tomarrow. all the settings seem to be good. Im not much of a pro on the safc 2

Originally Posted by rEclipserGST

What is TDC on timing? Your answer should be more like 5 to 10.

*Edit* Didn't see you have an SAFC, that may be your problem haha. Verify all the settings via the instruction manual. Arrow Upwards & to the right, 4 cylinder.

My guess is your base timing is off.

I don't think mine is adjustable

[gofast63]

Originally Posted by rEclipserGST

What is TDC on timing? Your answer should be more like 5 to 10.

*Edit* Didn't see you have an SAFC, that may be your problem haha. Verify all the settings via the instruction manual. Arrow Upwards & to the right, 4 cylinder.

My guess is your base timing is off.

my base timing is at the "T'' and it goes to 2-3 dregrees while running. i dont know how to adjust my timing. I dont think its adjust able

What is wrong with my car?! any ideas anyone?????? I've checked everything that i can think of and i dont know whats is left to check...:mad:

[rEclipserGST]

Why is your oil pressure gauge disconnected?
I would verify that your timing isn't off. Seems like it might be. What's the most recent maintenance you have done?

Do you have a logger of some kind? Post a log if you do. If you don't, buy one?

Having to feather the throttle to keep the car from stalling sounds like a timing issue to me OR an airflow reading issue.

Take a video or pic of the engine bay.

It is difficult to help when we are suggesting things to check & you are saying everything is okay... if it was, your car wouldn't be having issues would it?

Your timing is adjustable. Via thru ecu tuning or other mechanical techniques (ie: cam gears, cas, timing belt off)

[gofast63]

Originally Posted by rEclipserGST

Why is your oil pressure gauge disconnected?
I would verify that your timing isn't off. Seems like it might be. What's the most recent maintenance you have done?

Do you have a logger of some kind? Post a log if you do. If you don't, buy one?

Having to feather the throttle to keep the car from stalling sounds like a timing issue to me OR an airflow reading issue.

Take a video or pic of the engine bay.

It is difficult to help when we are suggesting things to check & you are saying everything is okay... if it was, your car wouldn't be having issues would it?

Your timing is adjustable. Via thru ecu tuning or other mechanical techniques (ie: cam gears, cas, timing belt off)

Items replaced
-I replaced the balanence shaft belt. ( it was chopped up bad ).
- Replaced spark plugs and wires
- Rebuilt turbo
- New battery
- New greddy Bov
- Fresh oil
- New coil packs
- MDP sensor
- Vacuum caps



I checked the timing again and it was at 5 deg. when it decided to run smooth. I do have to feather the gas to keep it running. What kind of logger would suggest? It didnt use to make the nosie while ideling before, but when i decided redline line it for about 30secs a couple of time to see if it may be mechanical. Starting to think a bearing? I have another video, I will get a picture posted on here about 630pm tomorrow. I had both my car and truck broken into last night as well me going to school and working full time. I apologize i was still in panic mode. I should of listed the things Ive check and have been more detailed.

Things I've checked.
Upstream O2 sensor (Good)
CAS
adjusted TPS to .63
fuel pressure is at 43psi ( but when i give it gas it jumps to 50psi???)
No boost leaks
MDP sensor is good
Comb is good
altenator is good
power steering good
compresson is 150 across
spark plug gap good
removed all covers
SAFC II is set correctly.
Vacuum pressure seems to check out -20

[rEclipserGST]

Did you make sure that the balance shaft was in time? How did you manage to replace it without removing the timing belt? Finesse?

What are the spark plugs gaped at? What plugs & wires are you running?

Is the bov recirculated?

[gofast63]

Originally Posted by rEclipserGST

Did you make sure that the balance shaft was in time? How did you manage to replace it without removing the timing belt? Finesse?

What are the spark plugs gaped at? What plugs & wires are you running?

Is the bov recirculated?

The balanence shaft gear was on the timing mark when I installed the belt. I did have to remove the timing belt in order to get to the balance shaft belt. I kept my cam gears in place with zip ties. If I remember correctly, my spark plug gap is set to 32 to 35 thousandth's. I'm running NKG spark plugs. Wires I can not remember off hand. The bov is recirulated.

[And_44]

I'm not familiar with 2g clusters but what lights are on besides the brake light? Looks like a CEL?

But if your timing is off your vacuum will be off as well, and with that off it will mess with the ability to set you SAFC correctly as well. So creating a chain of bad events all based off one thing.

Was there any carnage from the Balance Shaft being messed up like you said? Skipped timing or such? Miss aligned gears. If I remember right from the procedure in installing the Belt you have to time the oil pump or front balance shafts in time with the crank.

Was a leakdown check done to verify that your cylinders are sealing up?

[delta448]

Your CEL is on... what are the codes? Checking that should always be your first move when you think something is wrong.

Originally Posted by IRONLUNG

If the noise is that high pitch whine I hear,

Either I'm going deaf or my speakers suck because I don't hear it.

Originally Posted by gofast63

my base timing is at the "T'' and it goes to 2-3 dregrees while running. i dont know how to adjust my timing. I dont think its adjust able

If you have the stock 2Gb CAS, no it isn't adjustable.

Originally Posted by gofast63

I checked the timing again and it was at 5 deg. when it decided to run smooth. I do have to feather the gas to keep it running.

At idle, your ignition timing should be jumping around at anywhere from 5* BTDC to 15* BTDC. Since you have an SAFC and 550 injectors, your ignition timing should be even more advanced than that. Is your TB idle switch set properly?

Originally Posted by gofast63

when i decided redline line it for about 30secs a couple of time to see if it may be mechanical. Starting to think a bearing?

Well, if it wasn't already...

Originally Posted by gofast63

Things I've checked.
Upstream O2 sensor (Good)
CAS

How'd you check these?

Originally Posted by gofast63

adjusted TPS to .63
fuel pressure is at 43psi ( but when i give it gas it jumps to 50psi???)

Well, then your FPR must be seeing about 7psi of positive boost when you do that.

Originally Posted by gofast63

No boost leaks
MDP sensor is good
Comb is good

Comb?
Did your DSM join hairclub?
Please enlighten me as to what you really meant.

Originally Posted by gofast63

alternator is good
power steering good
compression is 150 across

150 isn't horrible but a tad on the lower side for a 2G, how many miles on it?

Originally Posted by gofast63

spark plug gap good
removed all covers
SAFC II is set correctly.
Vacuum pressure seems to check out -20

Originally Posted by gofast63

my spark plug gap is set to 32 to 35 thousandth's. I'm running NKG spark plugs.

It's not your problem but you should close that gap to 0.028", assuming you're running regular copper plugs.

[shavers55]

check your power steering fluid, this same thing happened to my wifes Lincoln LS, and it happened to my eclipse last month. It started whining real bad put some power steering fluid in and was good to go on both occasions. If your good on the fluid your power steering pump its about ready to go on you. the bearing in the pulley is screwed. my best suggestion. let me know how that goes.

Also does the noise seem to go away or get a little quieter while your driving? If so ill bet money is your PS pump

[thomcasey]

What about your Balance shafts themselves? You might have a bearing issue with one of them. You could remove the front balance shaft belt and re-check for the sound )just temporary of course. You need a stethoscope so you can poke around the engine bay and narrow down the location of the sound.

A lifter going bad could also make this sound. Either way, it is definitely something related to engine RPM

[gofast63]

Originally Posted by shavers55

check your power steering fluid, this same thing happened to my wifes Lincoln LS, and it happened to my eclipse last month. It started whining real bad put some power steering fluid in and was good to go on both occasions. If your good on the fluid your power steering pump its about ready to go on you. the bearing in the pulley is screwed. my best suggestion. let me know how that goes.

Also does the noise seem to go away or get a little quieter while your driving? If so ill bet money is your PS pump

I've took both belts off and it still make that noise

Originally Posted by delta448

Your CEL is on... what are the codes? Checking that should always be your first move when you think something is wrong.


Either I'm going deaf or my speakers suck because I don't hear it.

If you have the stock 2Gb CAS, no it isn't adjustable.

At idle, your ignition timing should be jumping around at anywhere from 5* BTDC to 15* BTDC. Since you have an SAFC and 550 injectors, your ignition timing should be even more advanced than that. Is your TB idle switch set properly?

Well, if it wasn't already...

How'd you check these?


Well, then your FPR must be seeing about 7psi of positive boost when you do that.


Comb?
Did your DSM join hairclub?
Please enlighten me as to what you really meant.


150 isn't horrible but a tad on the lower side for a 2G, how many miles on it?




It's not your problem but you should close that gap to 0.028", assuming you're running regular copper plugs.

Do you mean my bliss screw? When you say tb switch?, It has 150,000 miles on it. When I said comb , I meant MAF sensor...I apologies. When testing my o2 sensor I spray brake cleaner on a rag and wrap it in the rag over the o2 sensor. It stayed at 10.0 until the brake cleaner was gone

I wil get engine codes when I vet off of work. So ill be able to post them at 4:30 . Along with engine bay pictures and another video.

Originally Posted by thomcasey

What about your Balance shafts themselves? You might have a bearing issue with one of them. You could remove the front balance shaft belt and re-check for the sound )just temporary of course. You need a stethoscope so you can poke around the engine bay and narrow down the location of the sound.

A lifter going bad could also make this sound. Either way, it is definitely something related to engine RPM

I think it has to be the balance shaft in the front. I agree with you. Cause when I had the engine running that's where it sounded like that was where it was coming from. I'll post a another video showing my timing marks alp.g with everything else.

Originally Posted by And_44

I'm not familiar with 2g clusters but what lights are on besides the brake light? Looks like a CEL?

But if your timing is off your vacuum will be off as well, and with that off it will mess with the ability to set you SAFC correctly as well. So creating a chain of bad events all based off one thing.

Was there any carnage from the Balance Shaft being messed up like you said? Skipped timing or such? Miss aligned gears. If I remember right from the procedure in installing the Belt you have to time the oil pump or front balance shafts in time with the crank.

Was a leakdown check done to verify that your cylinders are sealing up?

No, I haven't done a leak down test.... The all of the arrows are on the marks where they suppouse to be. As far as timing the shafts I recall seeing a video on how you have to turn the shaft a let it fall into its timing place.....?,is that what you mean by timing it?

[delta448]

Originally Posted by gofast63

Do you mean my BISS screw? When you say TB switch?

On a 2G the idle switch is part of the Throttle Position Sensor mounted on the Throttle Body. Pin 3 and 4 of the TPS connector should have continuity when the throttle is closed.



The Base Idle Set Screw is used to keep the Idle Speed Control (also called IAC, Idle Air Control) motor centered at normal idle, so that it is able to correct idle speed the maximum amount in each direction when it has to. You shouldn't touch the BISS unless you have the scan tool (or other means) to hold the ISC at it's middle position, otherwise the ISC may just re-compensate for your adjustment and you're back at step 1.

You should also check the ISC motor:

No need for the special harness, just measure the resistance between pin 2 and (1 or 3), and the resistance between pin 5 and (4 or 6).

Originally Posted by gofast63

When I said comb , I meant MAF sensor...I apologies.

Ok, I understand now, you were referring to the MAS's "honeycomb".

[gofast63]

Originally Posted by delta448

On a 2G the idle switch is part of the Throttle Position Sensor mounted on the Throttle Body. Pin 3 and 4 of the TPS connector should have continuity when the throttle is closed.
Attachment 144528
Attachment 144527

The Base Idle Set Screw is used to keep the Idle Speed Control (also called IAC, Idle Air Control) motor centered at normal idle, so that it is able to correct idle speed the maximum amount in each direction when it has to. You shouldn't touch the BISS unless you have the scan tool (or other means) to hold the ISC at it's middle position, otherwise the ISC may just re-compensate for your adjustment and you're back at step 1.

You should also check the ISC motor:
Attachment 144523
No need for the special harness, just measure the resistance between pin 2 and (1 or 3), and the resistance between pin 5 and (4 or 6).


Ok, I understand now, you were referring to the MAS's "honeycomb".

Sorry its been taking so long to get back with you guys with the video. I'm down to one car still and trying to get my truck or my Talon running. But if I set my idle switch that would affect my tps voltage, right? I'm just a little confused on how to set both them up.

Originally Posted by thomcasey

What about your Balance shafts themselves? You might have a bearing issue with one of them. You could remove the front balance shaft belt and re-check for the sound )just temporary of course. You need a stethoscope so you can poke around the engine bay and narrow down the location of the sound.

A lifter going bad could also make this sound. Either way, it is definitely something related to engine RPM

I removed the balance shaft belt last night. The sound is still there.

Originally Posted by delta448

On a 2G the idle switch is part of the Throttle Position Sensor mounted on the Throttle Body. Pin 3 and 4 of the TPS connector should have continuity when the throttle is closed.
Attachment 144528
Attachment 144527

The Base Idle Set Screw is used to keep the Idle Speed Control (also called IAC, Idle Air Control) motor centered at normal idle, so that it is able to correct idle speed the maximum amount in each direction when it has to. You shouldn't touch the BISS unless you have the scan tool (or other means) to hold the ISC at it's middle position, otherwise the ISC may just re-compensate for your adjustment and you're back at step 1.

You should also check the ISC motor:
Attachment 144523
No need for the special harness, just measure the resistance between pin 2 and (1 or 3), and the resistance between pin 5 and (4 or 6).


Ok, I understand now, you were referring to the MAS's "honeycomb".

The ISC checks out. I forgot to add that to the list. I can't believe I can't figure this out it bugging the crap out me.

[delta448]

Originally Posted by gofast63

But if I set my idle switch that would affect my tps voltage, right? I'm just a little confused on how to set both them up.

Why does everybody get so hung up on the TPS voltage?
Proper procedure is to set the idle switch first and foremost, then worry about the TPS voltage. If the idle switch isn't set to have continuity at closed throttle, the car won't idle.

If the idle switch is set correctly per the FSM and the TPS voltage falls outside of the 0.4-1.0 volt range with the feeler gauge still in, then you have either a bad TPS or a problem in the wiring.

[gofast63]

Originally Posted by delta448

Why does everybody get so hung up on the TPS voltage?
Proper procedure is to set the idle switch first and foremost, then worry about the TPS voltage. If the idle switch isn't set to have continuity at closed throttle, the car won't idle.

If the idle switch is set correctly per the FSM and the TPS voltage falls outside of the 0.4-1.0 volt range with the feeler gauge still in, then you have either a bad TPS or a problem in the wiring.

I set everything. But when I start the car it goes to 2,000 rpm to 1,000. And keeps going up and down...

Also 90% of the whining noise went away! We're getting somewhere!