Cold Canking Amps

[my dreamt dsm]

Here's the story. Last week car just taking a hard time to start. As the week progress it took longer and longer to turn over. First I thought it was my fuel pump cause I have been having knock and bogging issues.
Well, today my car started to smell like crap, shit, sulfer, acid etc. I didn't know that at first but when I checked. I notice acid coming out of the battery top.
I'm looking to buy a battery and wonder what is the recommended CCA for cars or dsm's in particular. Will something around 590 be good enough?
Duralast/Battery (86-DL) | 1998 Mitsubishi Eclipse 4 Cylinders F 2.0L MFI Turbo DOHC | AutoZone.com

Side note
The more I stepped on the gas the more the car struggle to go. Probably due to not much current going to the fuel pump.

[bryanwheat]

If the alternator is working than the car should still run perfectly fine after it is started. The load is all taken up by the alternator, the battery is just there to start the car. If the battery is in fact bad than i would just replace it with what is recommended for your car.

[Vladimir]

590 is enough, I had 450cca for 2 years and the car was having no issue, until the tranny blew up. You can also look in Haynes or any autozone, they have proper specs.

Just the other week I had a Mazda with an alternator charging 14.2. But any time there was a load applied on the battery like electric power steering, abs, lights,etc....the car would start chocking, lights would flicker. The battery had 12.4 volts with the car off but only had 215 Ca. Cars don't like bad batteries

[serrilion]

I'd look into your Alt, just test it make sure your getting 14 Volts as its needed to run the car and charge the batt... Also do you have a sound system that would be drawing power? or just barrow someones batt for a quick min or 2 to test if its a junk batt. I run a Optima Yellow top in most of my cars, IDK what your price range is but im going on 6 years with mine, runs like a top

[Tyeler18]

Usually a battery that's evaporating its from an overcharge condition.

[DSM1G90]

I have been having knock and bogging issues

Hard start .. check your ECU.

I run a WallyWorld (Exide) 26-5 basic battery with 480CCA for 4 plus years with no problems...

You're only supposed to crank for 5 seconds, then get off the key for moment to cool stuff down so you won't burn up stuff. 500 plus amps DC is going to burn up crap in a heartbeat.

[my dreamt dsm]

Originally Posted by serrilion

I'd look into your Alt, just test it make sure your getting 14 Volts as its needed to run the car and charge the batt... Also do you have a sound system that would be drawing power? or just barrow someones batt for a quick min or 2 to test if its a junk batt. I run a Optima Yellow top in most of my cars, IDK what your price range is but im going on 6 years with mine, runs like a top

I don't have a sound system. I'll likely borrow another battery to test mine. I wanted to run a red or yellow top optima but money saved is kinda tight. I'll probably just suffice with a new duralast.

Originally Posted by DSM1G90

Hard start .. check your ECU.

I run a WallyWorld (Exide) 26-5 basic battery with 480CCA for 4 plus years with no problems...

You're only supposed to crank for 5 seconds, then get off the key for moment to cool stuff down so you won't burn up stuff. 500 plus amps DC is going to burn up crap in a heartbeat.

That was the thing, I'm not sure if 500 plus is going to be to much?

Another thing about the battery at the moment is that crap is gushing out and dripping onto my tray and eating the paint on my car's strut tower area.

[DSM1G90]

Yea, the sulfuric acid in the battery is boiling out of the vent holes due to the massive cranking that you've been doing.

When you put a massive load on a battery, it's building up massive resistance which builds up tremendous heat causing the acid to boil out of the vent holes ... why the 5 second crank and get the hell off the key to cool things down.

[my dreamt dsm]

I ended up getting the 590 CCA. All is good at the moment.