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| Maintenance & Repairs: Oil choices, timing belt, setting timing, CV boot replacement, alternator servicing, fuse/relay checks, and other basic maintenance, repair and diagnosis discussions. Probationary Members can post here. |
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05-31-2012, 11:02 AM
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#1 (permalink)
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Probationary Member

From: Connellsville, Pennsylvania
Registered: Apr 2009
Reputation:
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Check Engine Light Oxygen Sensor
So I have searched the forums but no one seems to have this same problem. I recently installed a catback exhaust on my car. I had to heat the oxygen senor to remove it and soon after the check engine light came on. I drove the car for a while like this then had the code read and sure enough it was for the oxygen sensor. I bought a universal bosch sensor from an auto parts store. Had the code cleared, and still had the same issue. Now my car bogs when hitting a certain rpm range and seems like it has no power. I then bought a denso sensor to try and it does the same thing. I still have the light and bogging. Could there be something wrong with the wiring or is it the sensors? I'm lost and can't seem to figure this out. Thanks for any help or ideas in advance.
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05-31-2012, 11:31 AM
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#2 (permalink)
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Proven Member

Car: 09 Subaru WRX
From: Fostoria, Ohio
Registered: May 2008
Reputation:
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Check your catalytic converter, almost sounds like it may be clogged. Not saying you did this (but I have never heard of having to heat up the O2 sensor to remove it) may just be a coincidence of this happening at the same time as what you have done.
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05-31-2012, 11:35 AM
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#3 (permalink)
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Proven Member

From: harrisburg, Pennsylvania
Registered: May 2011
Reputation:
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rear o2 only checks to make sure the cat is working. if it's throwing a CEL even after the new sensor and you feel a power loss it could be making a lot of back pressure from a clogged cat.
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05-31-2012, 11:42 AM
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#4 (permalink)
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Supporting Member

From: bullhead city, Arizona
Registered: Dec 2011
Reputation:
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I just had to same problem I couldn't get my sensor out since it was rust welded shut. Luckily I had an aftermarket exhaust to install it. I did the universal plug and my car ran like crap so i got the right plug but still my car is bogging and no power . It sounds like a lawn mower but I have other issues that are a factor. when you did the o2 did you reset your computer? Get the code erased and reset the ecu and see if that helps.
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05-31-2012, 11:56 AM
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#5 (permalink)
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Probationary Member

From: Connellsville, Pennsylvania
Registered: Apr 2009
Reputation:
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Yes I had the code erased by a scan tool, then I disconnected the battery for an hour and still no luck, light comes back on after about 5 miles of driving.
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05-31-2012, 12:06 PM
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#7 (permalink)
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Supporting Member

From: bullhead city, Arizona
Registered: Dec 2011
Reputation:
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Your sure you got a downstream o2 and not the upper? Every flange is tight with no leaks?
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05-31-2012, 12:32 PM
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#9 (permalink)
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Supporting Member

From: bullhead city, Arizona
Registered: Dec 2011
Reputation:
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was the other sensor you bought with a clip? Or did you wire it in to the sensor plug?
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05-31-2012, 01:10 PM
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#10 (permalink)
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Proven Member

From: Missoula, Montana
Registered: Nov 2011
Reputation: 
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Here is the code straight from the FSM 97-99'. As mentioned, the code does not effect drive-ability
I dig those fenders on your car by the way, goes good with the flow of the car IMO
____________________________
Nathan
Car's built on the inside, but not out :)
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05-31-2012, 05:25 PM
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#11 (permalink)
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Probationary Member

From: Connellsville, Pennsylvania
Registered: Apr 2009
Reputation:
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Every sensor that I installed I had to wire into the existing plug. So the code says it shouldn't effect driveability, but I get this stutter or jerking sometimes. Could this be an entirely different issue. Thanks for all the info so far guys.
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05-31-2012, 05:31 PM
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#13 (permalink)
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Proven Member

From: harrisburg, Pennsylvania
Registered: May 2011
Reputation:
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sloweclipse97
Every sensor that I installed I had to wire into the existing plug. So the code says it shouldn't effect driveability, but I get this stutter or jerking sometimes. Could this be an entirely different issue. Thanks for all the info so far guys.
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take off your downpipe and check the cat. if it's clogged it's time to replace it or run a test pipe with an o2 fouler on.
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05-31-2012, 05:41 PM
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#14 (permalink)
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Supporting Member

From: bullhead city, Arizona
Registered: Dec 2011
Reputation:
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o2 fouler? iv never heard of that. i just had the same issue as the op and i am running no cat or egr. someone told me without a egr that my fuel trims would be way out of wack? but i have an a/fx tuned ecu and im still stumped on it.
Last edited by jayson427; 05-31-2012 at 05:41 PM.
Reason: spelling
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05-31-2012, 06:18 PM
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#17 (permalink)
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Proven Member

From: Missoula, Montana
Registered: Nov 2011
Reputation: 
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Yup I've seen it work on a few cars especially in Montana when we don't have emissions. It's either pull out the honeycomb or weld up a straight through pipe when/if cat goes bad
____________________________
Nathan
Car's built on the inside, but not out :)
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05-31-2012, 06:43 PM
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#18 (permalink)
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Proven Member

From: harrisburg, Pennsylvania
Registered: May 2011
Reputation:
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jayson427
o2 fouler? iv never heard of that. i just had the same issue as the op and i am running no cat or egr. someone told me without a egr that my fuel trims would be way out of wack? but i have an a/fx tuned ecu and im still stumped on it.
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take a spark plug non foulers. dremel 1 out completely and screw it into the other one, then screw the o2 sensor into it and install it into the o2 socket how you normally would. it just moves the o2 sensor out of the exhaust stream so it doesn't trip the CEL.
deleting your egr wont do anything to your fuel trims, all that does is take the unburned exhaust gases and cycle them back into the engine. deleting it only hurts your fuel economy by maybe 1-2mpg. nothing serious.
Last edited by zcoh2gdsm; 05-31-2012 at 06:45 PM.
Reason: Auto-merged with previous post to prevent "bumping" within a 24 hour period Tips on avoiding the auto-merge feature - http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/faq.php?faq=vb_faq#faq_bumping
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06-01-2012, 08:24 AM
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#19 (permalink)
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Probationary Member

From: Connellsville, Pennsylvania
Registered: Apr 2009
Reputation:
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So the code I'm getting is saying the sensor isn't getting enough gases to give a reading, caused by the bad cat possibly?
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06-01-2012, 09:51 AM
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#20 (permalink)
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Proven Member

From: Missoula, Montana
Registered: Nov 2011
Reputation: 
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No sorry about that we got off track. Your code is electrical. Do you have a DVOM? Check the heater circuit in the sensor by testing for ohms. It should be under 2ohms (doublecheck me) and the computer seems to think its open (not connected)
How did the wires look when replacing the sensor?
____________________________
Nathan
Car's built on the inside, but not out :)
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06-01-2012, 09:55 AM
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#21 (permalink)
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Proven Member

From: harrisburg, Pennsylvania
Registered: May 2011
Reputation:
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sloweclipse97
So the code I'm getting is saying the sensor isn't getting enough gases to give a reading, caused by the bad cat possibly?
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no, the code is saying theres a circuit malfunction. it's a wiring problem. do what NHerron said and check the resistance with a volt meter. the o2 fouler would work if was a bad cat but in this situation it doesn't seem to be. you should still drop the downpipe and check the cat though just for reassurance.
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06-01-2012, 09:18 PM
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#22 (permalink)
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Probationary Member

From: Connellsville, Pennsylvania
Registered: Apr 2009
Reputation:
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I will try to check that with a volt meter tomorrow if it ever stops raining. I'm curious if getting rid of the code would cure the bogging I'm getting since it was stated this code wouldn't effect performance.
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06-01-2012, 10:01 PM
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#24 (permalink)
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Proven Member

From: Missoula, Montana
Registered: Nov 2011
Reputation: 
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Yeah... and any regular parts store should have them in a pack of 2 as well
____________________________
Nathan
Car's built on the inside, but not out :)
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06-11-2012, 12:34 PM
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#25 (permalink)
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Probationary Member

From: Connellsville, Pennsylvania
Registered: Apr 2009
Reputation:
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Last weekend I "gutted" my cat to eliminate that from the list of potential problems. Car continued to stutter and seem underpowered. Today I made my car do the "keydance", wrote down the numbers and I got a "21" code. Looking on 2gNT.com, this says its the upstream o2 sensor? I know on the scan tool I used before I could have swore it said bank 2 or downstream. Car is still running badly and is now smoking badly. Bad upstream o2 sensor causing car to run rich?
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06-11-2012, 12:47 PM
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#26 (permalink)
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Proven Member

From: Missoula, Montana
Registered: Nov 2011
Reputation: 
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Your front o2 sensor is bad, replace time! It controls fueling so when it goes bad it makes car run in open loop all the time and you'll get terrible fuel milage/performance
____________________________
Nathan
Car's built on the inside, but not out :)
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