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2G: 95 Talon -Car runs when ECM tapped with hammer, then dies

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Chromizone

Probationary Member
17
0
Sep 12, 2011
Toronto, ON, Canada
I'll be the first to say it sounds absolutely bizarre but I recently bought a 95 Talon, ESI, (fwd, auto, non-turbo). Car ad said it was in non running condition but it had a slew of new parts and the body/paint was in fantastic condition, brand new tires, etc.

Cost was $600 (can)

Went to see the vehicle, it's as described and I'm pleased. Smashed a piggy bank (read: wine bottle stuffed with spare cash) and paid the man.

Didn't have a truck on hand to tow it, so I agree to come back another day. previous owner phones me up, says he spoke to his mechanic who said it would run if the ECM (located under the hood, instead of behind the center console, was this only done in non-turbo Talons?) was tapped with a hammer while the engine was attempting to turn over. Says he tried it and it idled in his driveway for five minutes without issue.

Cool, get temp plates and insurance and go to pick it up. Car starts first turn of the key with no tampering required. I get it five minutes down the road, crest a hill and lose all power. Gauges flick back to normal positions almost instantly and car regains power. Get it onto the highway (inside lane, ready to ditch o the shoulder if needed) and the power flickers once but doesn't die. five minutes later I lose all power and couldn't regain it, had to pull over.

I towed it home, and sure enough, when I tap the ECM with a hammer while turning it over, it will start. Almost every time.

Removed ECM to inspect for leaking or corroded caps, etc. remove the faceplate on the ECM and the whole housing is filled with a rubber like gel that encapsulates the ECM, board and electronics aren't clearly visible or accessible.

I don't know what to do now. ECM tuners? attempt to source another ECM from a similar Talon or Eclipse or Avenger?

Thoughts and advice GREATLY appreciated.

TLDR: Car starts when ECM tapped with a hammer while turning the engine over, but dies shortly thereafter with no coughing or sputtering, just instantly dies.
 
Chrysler likes to locate the ECM's under the hood, so you are correct.. this is only the case for the N/A 2g cars, since they are more Chrysler than Mitusbishi.

As for the problem; do you have a mulitmeter? Check the ground and power to the ECU. It kinda sounds like something is loose, causing it to loose power. Then you could always try to locate a good ECU to try, as well. With it being a 95, you won't have to worry about the ECU being VIN programmed... (Talon/Eclipse/Avenger/Sebring coupe with the 2.0L would be what you look for. The Avenger/Sebring had a v6 option, that's why I say that.)
 
Very strange I would check the ecu connections and if they are all good and tight inside the clips I would get another ecu, they are pretty cheap when you find one at a junkyard. If you have any friends that would let you try their ecu first that's what I would do.

I think my buddy has a ecu laying around that I could probably get for cheap it looks a little different than other ecus I've seen in the 2g, but I have seen the car running with the ecu before we parked it to part it out. It's also a 95 eclipse gs.
 
The ECM socket was tested. I used contact cleaner on the ECM side and the wiring side to no avail. I have to double check with a multi meter and check the ground but the ground seemed good if I recall.

Are the ECM's usually jelled to the brim like that? or is that just because it's housed in the engine bay?

I'm on the hunt for an ECM it seems, but it's good to know that I can snag them out of a few Chrysler models.

I'd perhaps be interested in the McHustle, do you have a code of the ECM? Also I'm located just outside of Toronto so I'd likely need to have it shipped. Depending on the price.
 
Never really shipped anything to Canada before so it may be cheaper and less hassle to find one locally, if you can't find on then let me know I'm sure I can get it for cheap since it's a good friend of mine and I wouldn't mind doing it to help out a fellow member. But like I said if you can find one locally for a good price you might want to get it if not pm me and I'll try and get this one for you.
 
Sounds like a plan. I live close to the Standard Auto Wreckers U-Pull-It yard so I'll take a walk through there soon and see if I can gut one. last I was there (2 weeks ago?) there wasn't a talon or eclipse in sight, but I bet if I went hunting I could maybe find a Avenger / Sebring from 95.

If I find one I'll repost and tell you how it goes.

On a side note for the short ride I did have, she ran beautifully and aside from the ECM I honestly don't believe there are any other issues. Should be a hell of a car for under 1K if it works out.

Cheers
 
Got a chance to visit the wreckers today. They didn't have ANY talons, eclipses, or avengers. A pair of sebrings but far too new.

On the upside the sales guy helped me source the ECM out of a 95 2.0 ltr Avenger (auto) at another auto wrecking company that's about an hour away. Cost is $75, so I'll drive out and pick it up Thursday and see if the ECM swap fixes the issues with the Talon. Hopefully so, as I want to get the E-test and Safety so I can get it on the road.

Thanks for the advice guys
 
Ontario AWD, is the ECM you have for a FWD N/T, Auto? I'll be in North bay this weekend, could I get it in person?

And that "baking the ecm" theory sounds fun, mine's cooked ANYWAYS, might try it. But again, my ECM is embedded in jelly, how would I remove it to access the board?

I can post a picture if no one knows what I'm on about with the jelly.
 
It's from a 95 non turbo 5 speed.If this will work for you it's yours.Yes you can pick it up in person.
 
Last edited:
I don't think the 5 speed ECM will work. Unless the part number matches, mine's : P5269658
 
I'm assuming the number difference indicates that it's from a stick model / different production date. But it being a 95 Talon N/T ECM, it still might work.

Anyone more knowledgeable about this have an opinion?
 
This is an old problem I have been through many times.
The ecm uses the bolt for its grounding,When you use a pressure washer like at the car wash a film of grease bonds around the bolt and shorts out the ecu.
The fix is to remove the ecu take a piece of sandpaper and scuff the paint away around the head of the bolt and ecu and firewall where the bolt contacts it.
If the area is already free of paint just use some brake cleaner and spray the contact areas around the bolts to remove the film.
 
Hmm, interesting notion Jack. I did pick up a new ECM from Ontario AWD and the swap did the trick. Car runs and isles beautifully. The sitting idle does seem a hair rougher though, as in I can feel a bit more shake as I'm idling, but it runs and shifts smoothly.

I kept the old ecm and will try what you mentioned jack, see if the old ecm can be made to work so I can test the difference in the cars idle state.

I'm happy though, its running without issue and I can safety and e-test the car now to get it insured.
 
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