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| Maintenance & Repairs: Oil choices, timing belt, setting timing, CV boot replacement, alternator servicing, fuse/relay checks, and other basic maintenance, repair and diagnosis discussions. Probationary Members can post here. |
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05-07-2011, 02:33 PM
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#1 (permalink)
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Proven Member

From: White bEAR laKE, Minnesota
Registered: Sep 2007
Reputation:
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No spark in 1 and 4
Long story short I degreased my engine and it would not start. It turned out to be a bad crank angle sensor, now the car is running but is not get spark on 1 and 4 so far I changed out coil packs and power transistor. The car would run right then its like 1 and 4 just turns off. any input guys? btw its for a 1998 gst
Also it started out it would drive normal then just it would cut out now it will not get spark at all in 1 and 4
Last edited by justinhill98gst; 05-07-2011 at 08:22 PM.
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05-08-2011, 01:52 AM
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#2 (permalink)
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Probationary Member

From: bandon, Oregon
Registered: Dec 2009
Reputation:
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If it was a n/t I would have said try a different crank positioning sensor. I'm not sure on the turbo engines. But that was the problem on mine when I did a rebuild on my 420a engine and cracked the cps by accident. Car would run 5 minutes and lose spark to 1 and 4
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05-08-2011, 11:19 AM
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#4 (permalink)
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Proven Member

From: New York, New York
Registered: Apr 2011
Reputation:
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Best way to check a crank angle sensor is with a scope. But if this all happened after you"degreased" your engine I would look for water intrusion in the conectors.
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05-08-2011, 12:18 PM
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#5 (permalink)
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Proven Member

From: Austin, Texas
Registered: May 2011
Reputation:
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You de-greased your engine and then this issue surfaced....If you hit the top of your motor pretty aggressively with water then theres a good chance water found it's way down the spark plug tubes and around your spark plugs allowing for the spark to ground out to the engine block and head assembly.
I would remove your plug wires and then try blowing out the plug tubes with compressed air......Alot of times the spark plug wires overtime will not seal up to the top of the valve cover like they should and this actually allows dirt and debris (and in your case water) down the tubes and around the porcelin end of the spark plug where the wires snap in.....if water is able to reach that area then its easy to see how a voltage leak can form between the plug wire and the plug allowing voltage to escape to the cylinder head rather than to the spark plugs and on into the cylinder where it can do you some good........ Blow this area out with compressed air and make sure there is little to no moisture in it and your issue may disappear all together....
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05-08-2011, 12:34 PM
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#6 (permalink)
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Proven Member

From: White bEAR laKE, Minnesota
Registered: Sep 2007
Reputation:
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Update: pulled the plugs in on and four the plugs are dry, so I guess im not getting gas or spark in them 2
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05-08-2011, 12:55 PM
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#7 (permalink)
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Proven Member

From: Austin, Texas
Registered: May 2011
Reputation:
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try swapping your ecu to another car to see if your computer may have had driver failures after washing the engine...I'd hate to think something happened to it but you never know.....If you swap your computer to a good running car and the other car ends up with the issue you may have to go hunting for a possible short caused by water intrusion to a harness or something like that.....
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05-09-2011, 10:54 AM
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#11 (permalink)
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Proven Member

From: Hazleton, Pennsylvania
Registered: Apr 2010
Reputation:
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I had the sane problem... I tried 2 different coil packs and it didn't fix it. my problem was my cam angle sensor. Let me know if it's the same for u.
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05-09-2011, 11:04 AM
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#12 (permalink)
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Proven Member

From: White bEAR laKE, Minnesota
Registered: Sep 2007
Reputation:
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I replaced the CAS with a new one, when the car is running on 2 cylinders the RPMs go crazy some times and then sits at zero, If that suppose to mean anything.
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05-10-2011, 01:29 PM
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#13 (permalink)
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Proven Member

From: medicine hat, AB, Canada
Registered: Feb 2008
Reputation:
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the middle pin on your transistor is what controls your tack. my pin backed out and my tack did the same thing
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05-10-2011, 01:35 PM
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#14 (permalink)
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DSM Wiseman

From: Bloxom, Virginia
Registered: Jul 2004
Reputation:
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Swap the coil pack too and report back. just because the plugs are "dry" to you doesn't mean they wern't getting fuel. . .
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Matt
dd '90 GST, Holset H1C
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05-10-2011, 01:51 PM
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#15 (permalink)
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Proven Member

From: South Jersey, New Jersey
Registered: Mar 2009
Reputation:
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Check your crank angle sensor, I've heard that if its damaged the ECU will shut down 2 cylinders.
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Erick
1995 Eagle Talon TSI FWD
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05-10-2011, 04:46 PM
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#17 (permalink)
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Proven Member

From: South Jersey, New Jersey
Registered: Mar 2009
Reputation:
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Quote:
Originally Posted by FUZZYDESERTDSM
i call transistor
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He already changed it out.
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Erick
1995 Eagle Talon TSI FWD
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05-11-2011, 11:17 AM
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#18 (permalink)
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Proven Member

From: White bEAR laKE, Minnesota
Registered: Sep 2007
Reputation:
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Thanks for all the feed back guy's, But I tryed everything i'm about to go through the harness from the transistor because when I move the harness the motor kills
So I went through the harness fixed ever cracked wire still missing in 1 and 4. So far this is what I have done CAM positioning sensor,Crank Sensor,Switch out power transistor, Switch out coil packs and went through the harness and fixed every little cracked wire,Check out all the fuses. The only thing I have not done yet is switch in a different ECU but I looked at the ECU no leaking caps no burnt smell no marks but could it still be the ECU?
Last edited by justinhill98gst; 05-11-2011 at 03:21 PM.
Reason: Auto-merged with previous post to prevent "bumping" within a 24 hour period
Tips on avoiding the auto-merge feature - http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/faq.php?faq=vb_faq#faq_bumping
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05-14-2011, 05:25 AM
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#19 (permalink)
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Proven Member

From: White bEAR laKE, Minnesota
Registered: Sep 2007
Reputation:
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Could a bad injector resistor pack cause the no fuel/no spark to 1 and 4? Or could the car still fire with a bad MPI relay but not work 100%?
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05-17-2011, 06:48 AM
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#21 (permalink)
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DSM Wiseman

From: Bloxom, Virginia
Registered: Jul 2004
Reputation:
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Glad to see you found your issue. You can mark the thread "resolved" by going to the top right in the black bar just above your first post.
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Matt
dd '90 GST, Holset H1C
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05-17-2011, 09:41 AM
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#22 (permalink)
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Probationary Member

From: Santa Maria, California
Registered: Feb 2010
Reputation:
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Quote:
Originally Posted by justinhill98gst
Problem Solved Ecu went bad.
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Bad Caps?
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05-17-2011, 11:52 AM
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#23 (permalink)
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Proven Member

From: White bEAR laKE, Minnesota
Registered: Sep 2007
Reputation:
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Eh nevermind! I brought my Ecu to another dsmers and put my ecu in his car, made his car run wrong, so we assumed It was the ecu. So i bought a different ecu and still doing the same thing! injector 1 and 4 are dead. what else could it be?
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05-17-2011, 01:57 PM
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#24 (permalink)
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DSM Wiseman

From: Bloxom, Virginia
Registered: Jul 2004
Reputation:
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Hmmm, your harness is frying drivers in the ecu?
____________________________
Matt
dd '90 GST, Holset H1C
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05-17-2011, 03:24 PM
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#25 (permalink)
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Proven Member

From: White bEAR laKE, Minnesota
Registered: Sep 2007
Reputation:
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The thing is I went through the harness again, nothing touching nothing. I'm going to try another power transistor.
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05-17-2011, 05:55 PM
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#26 (permalink)
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Probationary Member

From: Pomona, California
Registered: Apr 2011
Reputation:
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Check the ground wire from ecu, put in a 1g CAS, check terminal on transitor plug to coil pack for resistence, Check resistor plug to ecu make you get the same resistence on all 4. Check on ECU pin 1,2 & 14,15 injectors with pin 13 & 26 ground make sure there is the same resistence.. Try That
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**Fir$t U Build H3r Then L3t H3r T8k u 4 A R1de**
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05-17-2011, 09:08 PM
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#27 (permalink)
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Proven Member

From: White bEAR laKE, Minnesota
Registered: Sep 2007
Reputation:
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Turned out to be two bad power transistor packs and ECU. put in a new power transistor and ECU and fired right up on all fours.... Happy boosting
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