Axle Seized In Hub... I'm Going NUTS!

[bossku69]

I'm in the process of replacing the wheel bearing on the front left and right side. Got the drivers side hub assembly off with very little effort, I was a bit surprised to be honest.

Passenger side... not so much. The axle is seized/stuck inside the hub. I've tried just about everything, including an entire can of PB and beating the back of the hub until I thought I was going to have an aneurysm, but its stuck

I even tried to use a 3 arm gear puller and attached the end to the 32mm socket so it wouldnt mushroom the head of the axle but the threads of the puller got jammed in the socket. I'm about to go insane and cant get this off.

Last resort is to just heat the hell out of it again. I have a map gas torch, but last time that didn't do much. Any other suggestions? Please

 

[crash89]

Screw it! At this point if I were you Id heat it up with the torch and beat the piss out of if! Your going to be replacing it anyways. Well doing that you might end up having to replace the axle too.

 

[Grip]

I would take some kind of head to it. Even if it was just a heat shrink gun. I doubt you will get it off without substantial amounts of head, but before you go out and torch it I would suggest something a little less aggressive.

 

[crash89]

but before you go out and torch it I would suggest something a little less aggressive.

You dont necessarily have to use it as a torch. Just mix the o2 and acetylene just enough to where its hot but not hot enough to cut the axle..

 

[4g63tc]

Pull the whole knuckle off, Axle included.

Take it to a machine shop, and have them press the axle out. that way you save the axle, and don't damage anything during the heating/beating process.

 

[Maverick4g63]

^agreed.. Disconnect the tie rod end and upper and lower control arms. Then pull the entire spindle, hub assembly, and axle out together. I ended up replacing my spindles because neither axle would slide out of their hubs. The diameter of the axle's outer bearing cup/knuckle blocks access to the four bolts that secure the hub assembly. I used an oxy/acet torch and notched the cups enough to retrieve the bolts for my new/salvage spindles. There may be an easier route but this is the method I used.

 

[phunny]

Take it to a shop as stated above, you will burn the boot. But don't be surprised if it gets damaged and needs replaced anyway.

 

[ChiTownHussla]

Man, I just beat the **** out of it....with heat and pb and slegehammer, it came loose

 

[1GenDSM]

I've had several that a oxy torch and a 50-ton press couldn't separate.

Time for a new axle and a new hub/wheel bearing. And anti-sieze the crap out of the splines to prevent it from happening again.

 

[95talongirl]

I'd say at this point just break the joint at the hub and replace the axle with the hub bearing. I've had some of these seize up to bad that a 20-ton press couldn't get it apart. An axle should be around $60 or so (if this is the front) To me, the $60 is worth not having to deal with it.

THEN on the new axle... anti-seize the crap out of it.

 

[rayrayx11]

I had the same problem. Torch chizzel air hammer. You name it..didn't work. Autozone axle and get a knuckle from the junk yard. save alot of time. Didn't cost as much as I thought.

 

[tuxdreamerx]

My driver axle has the same issue but luckily I was only needing it out to pull the motor so I just left it in the car but the day I need to replace he axle or the bearing is going to be a bad day.

Sent from my PC36100 using Tapatalk

 

[bossku69]

Thanks for the input, much appreciated

I went on this mission to replace the bearing myself, but going on three weeks later (only have limited time to really work on it) I need to start cutting losses and do whats going to repair it as fast as possible.

The mechanic I took the car to to get inspected wanted over $700 between parts and labor to replace the front bearing... as long as I spend $699 I consider it a win as now I have a bunch of tools and some knowledge

I heated up the front a bit and gave it a few small wacks with the mini sledge and nothing. So I decided last night to give it another try with the 3 arm puller after its been soaking and under heat from a spot light (gets to well over 300 degrees close up) and now the f-ing axle nut wont go on! I must of just hit the front enough to smash the threads. With enough force Im sure I can get the bolt back on, but now might be worth it to just replace the whole axle.

I'm guessing its not that hard to remove the axle then right? A place I called around where I live said they have a 50 ton press and if they cant get it out, they wont charge me for labor

 

[phunny]

The biggest problem I see with new techs is not hitting things hard enough. HEAT AND BEAT!

 

[DanielR921G]

When it comes to axles....leave your purse at home

 

[phunny]

When it comes to axles....leave your purse at home

no joke. And make sure the customer isn't watching.

 

[Maverick4g63]

I used an 8lb sledge with a 3 foot handle and swung it from the far end. Its a good way to release frustration, but not so great for the axle.

 

[bossku69]

Alright this is going on to long. It's been sitting in my garage now for 4 weeks and I need this fixed because I have to replace brakes and rotors on my Tahoe.

Tomorrow a friend is coming over and I'm going to heat the shot out of this and beat it until it comes off. The last thing I want to do is take the entire axle off, not only do I have no clue but not looking to spend another $100+ on this.

When I'm beating the hub, any suggested/secrets spots? I've been smacking it on the one arm that connects to the suspension and the tie rod arm.

 

[Maverick4g63]

I gave up and had to purchase two new axles and two new hub assemblies. It ended the nightmare though.

 

[1GenDSM]

Alright this is going on to long. It's been sitting in my garage now for 4 weeks and I need this fixed because I have to replace brakes and rotors on my Tahoe.

Tomorrow a friend is coming over and I'm going to heat the shot out of this and beat it until it comes off. The last thing I want to do is take the entire axle off, not only do I have no clue but not looking to spend another $100+ on this.

When I'm beating the hub, any suggested/secrets spots? I've been smacking it on the one arm that connects to the suspension and the tie rod arm.

If it was going to come out, it would have already happened.
Follow the advice given here and replace the axle and hub. I promise that replacing the two won't take another 4 weeks.

 

[Maverick4g63]

He'll see the light eventually.

 

[bossku69]

ITS OUT!!

Well, sorta...

Heated it up for a bit, banged it from the front, not dice. Heat the back being very careful not to burn the boot, gave it a few whacks (not even that hard) and BAM! it hits the ground.

After the excitement is over that I got it, I look to see the boot is OFF the axle and the spindle is still stuck in the hub. The knuckle separated... guessing this is not good, I'm about to head out to a body shop quick to see if they can press it out.



Am I screwed here or can I replace the knuckle and boot?

This is the axle it came off of

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Here is the hub with the spindle and boot

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This is the drivers side which came out super smooth (for reference)

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[shredwin]

Im having the same problem in my 90 gsx, drivers side came out smooth but the passenger side is seized in there good. so far I tried a 20ton press, sledge hammer and still nothing. Oxy-accetalyne should definitely get it but i need to find someone to heat it up for me still

 

[knochgoon24]

Judging by the way you've mushroomed the end of the axle already, save yourself the trouble and buy a new axle.

 

[dsmspick]

Front axels and hubs are easy to get. Just go get new ones for both sides. My rear ones were hella stuck, no press could get them out, finially cut them with a torch and got new axels and bearings. Make sure to use like a pound of anti seize