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Wobet

10+ Year Contributor
345
0
Dec 25, 2010
Saint john, NB, Canada
Alright. This is probably answered in many separate threads but having all all the info in one answer would be nice and clean. I haven't found one yet


I have a 5 speed gs spyder 96. The engine is crank walked. I am considering to swap an engine in. I have found awd 4g63s and fwd ones for the same prices. And most of them come with tranny and fuel pump and and everything. But. I will be replacing a 4g64. What will I need besides a built motor. (ecu? Tranny or will mine bolt on? Drive shaft if awd? Anything else?) I've never done work on a car like this, and I don't want to over pay someone to do more then they have to. So I want to know what I need before I get the guy in my garage
 
Alright. This is probably answered in many separate threads but having all all the info in one answer would be nice and clean. I haven't found one yet


I have a 5 speed gs spyder 96. The engine is crank walked. I am considering to swap an engine in. I have found awd 4g63s and fwd ones for the same prices. And most of them come with tranny and fuel pump and and everything. But. I will be replacing a 4g64. What will I need besides a built motor. (ecu? Tranny or will mine bolt on? Drive shaft if awd? Anything else?) I've never done work on a car like this, and I don't want to over pay someone to do more then they have to. So I want to know what I need before I get the guy in my garage

Well obviously you should take a fwd tranny, engine you can take fwd or awd that doesn't matter as long as it runs. I really don't suggest that you try the awd swap, if you'd be able to do it you wouldn't be asking such a basic question. To change to turbo you'll need a turbo longblock, ecu, exhaust system, fuel pump, injectors, turbo, engine harness, boost gauge etc.

Not sure what you mean, you have a 4g64 and want a 4g63-t? Or you want to swap to turbo than change the short block to a 4g64 for bigger displacement?
 
Well obviously you should take a fwd tranny, engine you can take fwd or awd that doesn't matter as long as it runs. I really don't suggest that you try the awd swap, if you'd be able to do it you wouldn't be asking such a basic question. To change to turbo you'll need a turbo longblock, ecu, exhaust system, fuel pump, injectors, turbo, engine harness, boost gauge etc.

Not sure what you mean, you have a 4g64 and want a 4g63-t? Or you want to swap to turbo than change the short block to a 4g64 for bigger displacement?

Well (honestly none of this, even the terminology is obvious to me cause I
Literally just started "working" on and with cars recently. )

Ok. I drive a stock 1996 spyder gs.

The 4g64 just crankwalked and now is knocking real loud. I have not checked my oil for shavings, but under the crank pulley (looking straight down on it from behind the pulley) there is a shiny silver spot that looks like there is a legit crack. The best way I can explain it is " the shinny spot near the back of the crank pulley looks as if it was rubbing and then cracked and sagged."


I'm considering swapping a new engine in simply because getting a rebuild where I live, takes extra long and isn't a "for sure" thing. Plus it cost 500-700$ without labour. That sounds wrong to me, but that's all I can find.


I have found 4g63 from evos, gsx's, gs-t's and the nt model. I have not seen a 4g64 anywheres that I can get shipped to Canada. So I'm researching all my options and what I need to follow through with the option I chose.
 
I wrote a long reply sorry. I forgot to mention though.

Asuming my engine is in as bad shape as I fear, I'm pretty sure my clutch and tranny are fine, but saying that, before I bite my tongue.

Does crankwalk affect transmition.
 
Well. Is a good enough reason to say cw to say when the engine was on I watched my belt start rattling, and I look down to see my crank pulley moving as far right as touching the plastic then moving back into place. It caused shit shifting, idle surging and finally the belt popped off and now the pulley is on the crank still all bolts tight, sitting out an inch, on a slant. My bet is the crank moving left to right was the "walking" at it's best
 
Well. Is a good enough reason to say cw to say when the engine was on I watched my belt start rattling, and I look down to see my crank pulley moving as far right as touching the plastic then moving back into place. It caused shit shifting, idle surging and finally the belt popped off and now the pulley is on the crank still all bolts tight, sitting out an inch, on a slant. My bet is the crank moving left to right was the "walking" at it's best

Your crank pulley went bad.
 
Your crank pulley went bad.

The crank pulley? I dont understand how it could of been moving.

Is the some sort of diagram of the 4g63/64 engine on the forum. I'm a visual guy. When I see pictures of how it all goes together I'll be able to understand how it all works.
 
Well. Ya. It's the better engine. A 4g64 with 63 heads would be nice, but I honestly prefer the 63 so cw in my 64 isn't a huge deal.


no i understand what your doing but it seemed like you guys were getting confused or something.. you said your 4g63 crankwalked ((must have been a typo cause i see you changed it now)).. and tsi from hell thought you had a 4g63 in there now and want to change it to a 4G64
 
no i understand what your doing but it seemed like you guys were getting confused or something.. you said your 4g63 crankwalked ((must have been a typo cause i see you changed it now)).. and tsi from hell thought you had a 4g63 in there now and want to change it to a 4G64

Oooh. Ha ya sorry about that typo. The iPhone auto corrected it to 63 as I typed it.

Anyways

If it is crankwalk. And I do the swap


Let's make an example. (metaphorical)

I buy a 4g63nt. Fwd. That swap is straight forward. I don't need an ecu, tranny, fuel pump right? It all bolts on from the original 64 and works fine?
 
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