Boost leak? Timing jumped? Help with logs

[Detective Coating]

Alright so I have had some major problems this weekend. I started driving home which is a 2 hour drive that turned into 4 hours. All of a sudden I couldn't make it up small hills, it seemed like my tune disappeared. So I spent an hour on a back road trying to tune it well I got it good again so I thought. Got up the hill and about a mile later it started to do it again. No boost, couldn't push it more than 2,000 RPM. So I get home and let it sit. I try to change things with Link and wasn't getting anywhere with it. I turn it on the next day and it seemed to be fine. I boosted down the road and hit 15psi no creep no spike nothing wrong but I blew my MBC apart ### the nut was too loose and it came apart.

Well now I turn it on it idles around 1500 and then about 20 seconds later goes down to 100 RPM's and dies on me. I have noticed my air flow per rev is way to high about .46-.60 and it should be .26-.29. I am thinking I either have a major boost leak or I jumped a tooth. My timing seems awful high at idle too. I'm not sure what it should be at. I haven't gotten into the timing aspect of tuning yet but it seems high to me for some reason. I plan to get these problems fixed and throw it on the dyno for Nate Silveri to tune. I have not been able to diagnose any problems because it is back at home but I would like some ideas so I know if I can check anything else when I get home. I attached some logs of what is happening.

 

[Detective Coating]

Anybody have any ideas?

 

[pjhale16]

Well I'm no expert but here are the things I see. Your TPS volts should be .63 while at idle. There's a place to adjust it on dsmlink and there's an equation for how much to adjust it on the dsmlink wiki. Probably raise the offset 6 to get to .63 but have to do the whole thing to see what the scale should be so its close to 5 when open.

I just got dsmlink and for some reason I decided to block off my ISC when I put my engine in. I have to keep my car running for about 15 seconds when it starts until the O2 starts to cycle. Yours starts to work its way up but you have to give it some time. If you keep it running till it starts to cycle it will probably stay running. Then you need to adjust your 50 hz slider with ltft low and stft and all that after its warm. If you don't know whether your ISC is working you could try to simulate it on dsmlink. That's what I'm doing now but I still have some troubles idling right at start-up.

Make sure your global is at -31%. DSMlink manual says 210 for deadtime but in another place I seen it say 315. I would probably just stick to 210 like the manual says though.

Make sure your GM-MAFT is set for stock injectors. In the manual I got it says for a 2g and 450cc injectors to put all switches to off and AUX 4, Base 2, Idle/Mid/WOT 0. Also I'm pretty sure ignore IAT/Baro should be clicked in misc.

As far as the trouble getting up hills, I had a similar problem. I put in a 6 bolt and it was getting a misfire code every once in awhile which was making my car run horrible. So check to see if your getting any codes and you can deselect them so they don't come up again under DTCs.

Its hard to tell anything about your timing. I'm not sure what it should be at idle but mine runs between 5-7 on my dsmlink. I would just check to make sure you base timing is right and your fuel pressure is right. Also you can't really use the airflowperrev until you calibrate your maft with the airflow sliders and get your idle good.

If I were you I would set my idle on dsmlink down to at least 900 and use your biss screw to get it as close to there as possible. All this has to be done after your car is warmed up though and when you change the airflow sliders it may change your idle rpm so just keep adjusting the biss to make it as close to whatever you set it on dsmlink. Also your going to want to log mafraw for you airflow sliders.

Well this is about all I know/see. Someone else may be able to help more but maybe try these things and see how it works out.