Good call Nathan, that should cover it
Like Pat said the Moly Lube SHOULD be included. I say should because when I got my ARP's the first set had the thread missing on one of the nuts, then when I received a replacement set (I kept the first until I knew the second was good), I don't remember exactly but I think it was, something else was missing. So had to make 1 set out of 2.
Don't feel bad about the OEM gaskets, I'm sure I paid alot more then you from the local dealer
(JNZ usually has pretty good prices on OEM & seems to have good customer service, unlike some of the other online OEM dealers, extremepsi is also another good place)
Headstuds really aren't that hard at all, don't be a wuss
Until I had the Eclipse I had never gone "into" a motor before either. Headstuds, cams, valve spings, lifters, valve stem seals, timing belt, etc., all not hard to do at all. Were luckey that there's a tonn of info out there for our cars & even more guys that have already done it to theirs
So look up the factory torque sequence, pull the first bolt, chase it with a tap if you have one (I didn't at the time) & blow it out good with compressed air. Then install one new stud & what I did was bottom it out several times (with abit of force) & then back it off to make sure the stud was going all the way down. Then once again bottom out the stud & back it off 1/4 turn to make sure you don't have any torque applied to the stud itself. Then install your washer & nut & torque it to spec in steps as you normally would (of course using the Molylube). Then go on to the next stud in the factory sequence. IIRC the ARP spec is 75 ft/lbs with Moly for the 7 bolt but I did mine to 90 ft/lbs. Some say follow exactly what the factory recommends while other say to give it abit more. All I can say is that so far min have been great (2 or 3 summers now)
For the O2 sensor, is your replacement an OEM Mitsu? Have heard the "aftermarket" ones can sometimes not last to long in our applications.
