ECMlink First DSMLINK Logs

[housegsx]

Hey everyone,

These are my first couple logs other than setting global and dead time fuel adjustments, which ended up already being dead on. Boost was only around 14-15psi.

The first log is with pretty much everything unchanged. The second log is with the fuel set to -5% from 5,000rpm +. This seemed to get my reading on my AEM wideband to come up slightly leaner.

Tell me what you think. Look it over to tell me if anything seems out of place. I am also worried about the knock that shows up, or is that too little to matter

Thanks

 

[Hiitman]

Well your front O2 is dead. It should be reading between 0.80 and 0.99 at the most. Try leaning it out a little more. That could be rich knock that your seeing. But first replace your front o2 before you do any more logs.

 

[twack]

Are you on the link forums. over there you can alot more help faster

 

[blcknspo0ln]

+1 on replacing your front o2. I would say bring all of the fuel sliders down to -8 and do another pull. Of course, you be the judge, but I'm going to guess your AEM UEGO gauge itself is reading pig rich. Lean it out until the GAUGE (don't trust the dsmlink logs just yet, you'll soon find out it reports a different afr than your gauge) reads 10.5:1 or so. I'll guesstimate and say you'll need to pull past 10% to stop flooding your motor with fuel.

 

[phunny]

Really hard to tune with that O2 trying to compensate. Glad to see you got dsmlink. Like they said above, DO NOT use the AEMWB on dsmlink to tune with, it's wrong. You almost need 2 people to tune, 1 to drive and 1 to watch the WB gauge and the rpm's. If you need any help I'll meet you somewhere and help out.

 

[1992awdlaser]

Replace the o2 sensor. Don't do any cruise or idle tuning until this is done. This won't matter for wot tuning since the o2 isn't used for full throttle tuning.

You will have to tune the idle and cruise once the o2 sensor is replaced.

Bring the 2000rpm timing slider up 2* and the 2500rpm slider up 1*. I am thinking this might be the reason you are knocking. At 1500rpm the ecu is targeting 3*, at 2000rpm 1*, at 2500 back up to 3*, then at 3000rpm up to 7*. As you can see the timing curve isn't very gradual. This can cause knock.

Put the 1600hz airflowslider to +3.

Pull fuel until the gauge reads your target air/fuel ratio. I normally shoot for 11.0:1 on pump gas.

 

[housegsx]

Thanks everyone for the help so far. I've got an order in for a new o2 from extremepsi.

1992awdlaser, so you are saying I will have to re-do the cruise and idle tuning for global fuel and dead time?

phunny, I think the wideband I have it set on now is accurate when I compared my logs to my gauge, but I will double check on my next pull. And thank you for offering a hand if I need it, I might just take you up on that offer.

blcknspo0ln, I know it's definitely way too rich as it sits. But the knock scared me and I didn't want to try adjusting too much without some advice from these first logs beforehand.

At first should I just be moving all the fuel sliders across the rpm range the same amount until I get to a good steady a/f at one point; and then adjust across the range accordingly to match a/f? Once I get the new sensor in I'll make a couple of adjustments and do some more pulls.

 

[1992awdlaser]

Thanks everyone for the help so far. I've got an order in for a new o2 from extremepsi.

1992awdlaser, so you are saying I will have to re-do the cruise and idle tuning for global fuel and dead time?

phunny, I think the wideband I have it set on now is accurate when I compared my logs to my gauge, but I will double check on my next pull. And thank you for offering a hand if I need it, I might just take you up on that offer.

blcknspo0ln, I know it's definitely way too lean as it sits. But the knock scared me and I didn't want to try adjusting too much without some advice from these first logs beforehand.

At first should I just be moving all the fuel sliders across the rpm range the same amount until I get to a good steady a/f at one point; and then adjust across the range accordingly to match a/f? Once I get the new sensor in I'll make a couple of adjustments and do some more pulls.

You will have to tune the ltft's again. Meaning lower airflow sliders.

Take away fuel evenly since the curren air/fuel ratio is about even across the rpm range.

 

[blcknspo0ln]

Wait, so are you lean or are you too rich? If it is 9:1, 10:1. anything under 11:1, that means you are rich.

 

[housegsx]

Wait, so are you lean or are you too rich? If it is 9:1, 10:1. anything under 11:1, that means you are rich.

Whoops! I meant too rich. I'm editing that now.

 

[scottsee]

5500 rpms boostest shows 12.9, if your gauge shows diffrent you need to calibrate your airflow, wich you will need to do anyway when your get your Front02. FYI fron't o2 are useless in WOT tunning, it's only important in LTFT tunning.

 

[housegsx]

5500 rpms boostest shows 12.9, if your gauge shows diffrent you need to calibrate your airflow, wich you will need to do anyway when your get your Front02. FYI fron't o2 are useless in WOT tunning, it's only important in LTFT tunning.

It may only be around 13psi. I did these pulls a few weeks ago actually. But I thought when doing LTFT tuning you are only trying to get the global and dead time fuel settings, correct Also, I was under the impression that the only time I need to move my airflow sliders would be if I was running a GM MAF or overrunning the stock MAS.

I'm definitely a newbie in the tuning department, but I have read and re-read about every good article and manual on tuning with dsmlink. I guess it's just going to take some hands-on experience to get used to it.

 

[1992awdlaser]

It may only be around 13psi. I did these pulls a few weeks ago actually. But I thought when doing LTFT tuning you are only trying to get the global and dead time fuel settings, correct Also, I was under the impression that the only time I need to move my airflow sliders would be if I was running a GM MAF or overrunning the stock MAS.

I'm definitely a newbie in the tuning department, but I have read and re-read about every good article and manual on tuning with dsmlink. I guess it's just going to take some hands-on experience to get used to it.

First of all you need to do a pull and be positive of what your boost gauge is reading. Datalog this pull and post the log.

Global and deadtime setings are for bigger injectors. They can be used in certain situations to get the ltft's in order. The other way to get the ltft's in order is to use the lower airflow sliders. Just an example, if ltft lo is positive, then you would bring the 50hz slider up. If it was +8 you would move the 50hz slider +8. Every maf can use some calibrating to be more accurate, even stock ones.

If you have specific questions about the process let me know.

 

[housegsx]

^Thanks! I'm in the middle of stripping out my car some more. As soon as this new sensor comes in(probably tomorrow) I'll install it and start tuning. I'd then like to do a couple pulls after I set my LTFT and post the results here for some advice. Then I can take the car out on Saturday and try to get a decent tune as I have an autocross on Sunday to go to.

 

[scottsee]

Buy a Gm3.3bar map and wire harnes so you can log boost as a value. LTFT in all reality is for gas millage. The 2g ecu will compensate for LTFT & STFT +/- 16.9% giving you a pretty huge swing of injector compensation. 4 times that of a 1g. Global and dead time will get you close, airflow comensation will fine tune it.

When you overrun your stock maf (around 2600-3200hz) you'll clamp the MAf and run off your VE tables for overun, or just go with te GM MAF. Either way when you change somthing that dosen't belong there in the first place you'll need to comensate for it.. Dsmlink is the most userfriendly EMS on the market..

Scott

 

[housegsx]

I put the new o2 sensor in last night. I'll start tuning again later on today and post some logs.

 

[housegsx]

OK, I'm just trying to make sure the dead time is correct. I went up and down the bypass for over 3 hours. At least the new o2 is working now.

The recommended starting point for my FIC 750 injectors is global = -40 and dead time = 315.

Here are my results from trying a few different dead times...

315. Cruise(LTFTmid)= -2.7 Idle(LTFTlo)= -12.5

300. Cruise(LTFTmid)= -2 Idle(LTFTlo)= -12.5

255. Cruise(LTFTmid)= -2.3 Idle(LTFTlo)= -9

225. Cruise(LTFTmid)= 2.9 Idle(LTFTlo)= -3.7

210. Cruise(LTFTmid)= 4.5 Idle(LTFTlo)= -3

195. Cruise(LTFTmid)= 6.1 Idle(LTFTlo)= -0.6

180. Cruise(LTFTmid)= 5.5+ Idle(LTFTlo)= 2.1 (Cruise would have probably gone higher but I didn't give it long enough to adjust)


By looking at this I would think 225 would be the best choice because both are withing +/- 5. Does this seem correct? Is it normal to need to adjust this far off of the recommended 315 dead time? Will I be ok? If so, I'll leave it at 225 and global at -40 and move on to idle tuning.

I have some logs of most of these if anyone needs to see them.

 

[1992awdlaser]

I would like a log of the 315 setting so I can give accurate advice.

 

[housegsx]

I would like a log of the 315 setting so I can give accurate advice.

These are the logs for 315 dead time.

 

[1992awdlaser]

I would try 240 and then just get the fuel trims closer with the airflow sliders if need be. 225 should work just fine though if you just want to do that.

 

[housegsx]

I'm back with some logs of a few 3rd gear pulls I did yesterday. I installed a new boost controller and started tuning again. The 1st log is at about 14psi, 2nd log is 17psi, and the 3rd log at 19psi.

Tell me what you think about these logs please. The AEM wideband log seems to be pretty accurate. Focusing on the gauge itself, I know I'm not going any leaner than 10.5:1 at WOT. I was going to shoot for 11:1, but I was getting some knock around 5200-5800rpm and didn't want to go any leaner before getting some advice. Do you see anything about my log that would cause that knock? When I saw this I added a little bit of fuel before the next pull and turned the boost to 19psi for the 3rd pull.
Also how is the timing. Obviously it pulled some when it knocked, but when it wasn't, I was maxing out at about 15.4 timing advance.

Thanks to everyone in advance for taking the time to look at these for me.

 

[1992awdlaser]

That knock is nothing to worry about. You can go ahead and try leaning it out a little.

 

[housegsx]

That knock is nothing to worry about. You can go ahead and try leaning it out a little.

Ok. If that knock continues to remain there and doesn't increase should I go ahead and add timing there to keep the curve consistent?

And at what point should I start to be concerned about knock?

 

[1992awdlaser]

Ok. If that knock continues to remain there and doesn't increase should I go ahead and add timing there to keep the curve consistent?

And at what point should I start to be concerned about knock?

Yeah, if that knock stays at .4 you can increase the timing. I would first try leaning it out to about 10.8:1 or so.

I generally don't pay too much attention to any knock below 2.