New Log - DSMLink,E316g,24psi

[mnetwork]

I just did some tuning tonight. This is what I came up with so far. I didn't really mess with fuel as the a/f ratio is already pretty rich (mid 10's). Timing isn't bad, timing was peaking out at 18-20 each run. I can't seem to advance timing between 5-6.5. That area is very touchy, and I randomly get small amounts of knock there also. This pull had a little knock. This is the first time I've ever messed with DSMLink. Take a look at the log and shoot my any advice, I have an AEM Wideband wired in, so add the "AEMWBgaugeR1" value to view that.

[gsxtasy]

Your intake temps and coolant temps are too high. There's a few spikes in the afr that you could try to tune out. Overall not too bad, do you have your fuel trims close?

Oh yeah, the reason it's more touchy in that area is because that is where you are at the highest VE.

[mnetwork]

I didn't even look at the VE Tables. Why are those all adjusted already. Is that how its set for a plain 2g MAF on a 2g, because I never touched those settings. Coolant and intake temp, I'm going to work on, but right now theres not much I can do. I'm running a high percentage water with water wetter. I was trying to do mainly timing and I was going to move on to leaning out fuel a little after that.

EDIT: Fuel trims were already good. I tried messing with them a little, and it just made it worse. They were both less than +/- 5.

[1992awdlaser]

Don't worry about the ve table. The ecu won't use those settings unless you use the fake maf function.

.4 counts of knock is nothing to worry about.

Your ecu is pulling 1* of timing due to the coolant temp being over 206*.

How much boost were you running?

Hit f4. Click on boostest once. Then click on props. Input your elavation if you are not at sea level.

[mnetwork]

I was running 24 psi max through the pull... Usually any knock I get is .4 or .7 counts. Not usually 1 or over.

I don't understand why the 5-6.5k area is so touchy. I can't add timing at all to that area and that area randomly gets a small amounts of knock (usually under 1 count).

[1992awdlaser]

Right now it would appear that the maf needs to be calibrated some since the boostest is around 22 between 5,000 and 5,500 and you were at 24. But if you have to change the boostest props the boostest will also change some.

[CanadianTSi]

Originally Posted by mnetwork

I don't understand why the 5-6.5k area is so touchy. I can't add timing at all to that area and that area randomly gets a small amounts of knock (usually under 1 count).

Peak cylinder pressure as that is where peak torque is as long as you can get there there without the knock coming on then you can usually feed the timing back in up top.

[mnetwork]

Sounds right... Brand new to DSMLink and timing related tuning. I came from and S-AFC2 to this... Any ideas on a good A/F ratio to shoot for. I am on nice NJ 93 octane gas....

[CanadianTSi]

11.0:1

[1992awdlaser]

I shoot for 10.8:1-11.0:1 on pump gas and 11.5:1-11.7:1 on race gas.

[mnetwork]

I had my car tuned when I was on the S-AFC... my fuel curve went well into the 11's on pump gas, 20psi... Is this uncommon?

[Black_Bullet]

23-24 psi, 11.0-11.3ish AFR, and up to 19-20 degs of timing by redline and Id say anything in that range would be a pretty good tune on pump gas.

Look into doing a cold air intake for those intake temps. I have done one and let me tell you it
really does help, intake temps dropped average of 30 something degrees on my setup; and if you dont have heatshields over stuff then put them. I run straight distilled water with bottle of water wetter and a 180 deg thermostat and I stay between 190-200 degs. Maybe that will help.

[turboglenn]

Originally Posted by mnetwork

I didn't even look at the VE Tables. Why are those all adjusted already. Is that how its set for a plain 2g MAF on a 2g, because I never touched those settings. Coolant and intake temp, I'm going to work on, but right now theres not much I can do. I'm running a high percentage water with water wetter. I was trying to do mainly timing and I was going to move on to leaning out fuel a little after that.

EDIT: Fuel trims were already good. I tried messing with them a little, and it just made it worse. They were both less than +/- 5.

Just wanted to let you know that you've got the method backwards. The correct way ( at least to most tuners ) is to start with low timing, set your boost where you want it. Then dial in your AFR's, after the AFR's are dialed in, slowly advance timing untill you see a slight bit of detonation and then back off a degree or 2.

You'll have less headaches tuning this way if you decide to try it.

And i agree on the cold air intake. I used a CAI pipe made for a honda (cheap parts store item), i cut one bend off the end of it and it was shaped perfectly and re-located my filter down where the stock SMIC was. i noticed a

Also to answer your question about AFR's well into the 11's on your AFC pump gas tune: IT's not "uncommon" to see 111.5 - 11.7:1 on pump gas even, but people usually tune a bit richer to add a bit more timing. The 3 main components of a tune are timing, AFR and boost... Boost adds the most power, timing comes in 2nd and leaning out the AFR's will produce the least amount of gain in comparison to adding timing or boost. So while you were at mid 11's and let's just say 16* max tming, you might have been able to go 11:1 flat and gotten either a few degrees more timing or another pound or 2 of boost. Hope that makes sense.

[mnetwork]

Sounds good... and aren't intake temps before the intercooler anyway?

[1992awdlaser]

It is measured from the maf. So if you have a stock maf, yes.

[Black_Bullet]

Colder air is still colder air no matter were it started...
A 30-40 deg drop is significant, and also consider that denser air entering the compressor
will help the turbo spool characteristics and help it to reach peak air flow easier especially up in the higher rpms/ higher pressure ratios.

[gsxtasy]

Originally Posted by Black_Bullet

Colder air is still colder air no matter were it started...
A 30-40 deg drop is significant, and also consider that denser air entering the compressor
will help the turbo spool characteristics and help it to reach peak air flow easier especially up in the higher rpms/ higher pressure ratios.

Not to mention, you pull timing if it's to hot or cold. (34°< x <84)

[1992awdlaser]

Originally Posted by gsxtasy

Not to mention, you pull timing if it's to hot. (34°< x <84)

Agreed. Here are all the numbers.

2G intake air temp ignition advance adjustment:

185F = -3°
132F = -2°
100F = -1°
73F = 0
48F = 0
20F = -1°
-23F = -2°

1G intake air temp ignition advance adjustment:

185F = -3°
132F = -1°
100F = 0
73F = 0
48F = 0
20F = -1°
-23F = -2°

[Boost Demon]

Looks like your "boost estimate" is off a few. It shows 20-21psi max, but not the 24psi that you saw on your gauge, could this be from a leak before the turbo, in the air intake track somewhere? When you get knock around the 6500rpm mark your timing actually slightly goes up, but I would drop the timing slider there 1-3 ticks to see if that reduces your knock. As you've heard already you have some high temps, just curious if you were doing back-to-back runs or something during the day that may have helped contribute to it? Good luck

[1992awdlaser]

Originally Posted by Boost Demon

Looks like your "boost estimate" is off a few. It shows 20-21psi max, but not the 24psi that you saw on your gauge, could this be from a leak before the turbo, in the air intake track somewhere? When you get knock around the 6500rpm mark your timing actually slightly goes up, but I would drop the timing slider there 1-3 ticks to see if that reduces your knock. As you've heard already you have some high temps, just curious if you were doing back-to-back runs or something during the day that may have helped contribute to it? Good luck

Yes, the leak would be between the maf and turbo inlet.