dsmlink cruise and wot log with wideband.Suggestions?

tbonitz301 · 06-08-2008, 04:42 PM

I'm still trying to learn all this stuff as fast as possible, and its making it really hard. I burn myself out on it. The first log(#6) is where i kept getting spark blowout, but i regapped my plugs, and it went away. The second log(#8) is a cruise log, and the last one(#9)is a wot 3rd gear run. I'm running 14ishPsi for now till i get it tuned. I'm experiencing very slow spool. Im looking for some suggestions as to what adjustments i should be making.Please someone help. Im in the dark here.BTW pay no attention to the knock sensor. There's something fishy going on there. Everytime i am on the gas it goes into default mode

.Please dont let the knock sensor stop you all from helping me

I also cant access the dsmlink forums because the previous owner of the dsmlink never registered

1992awdlaser · 06-09-2008, 08:11 AM

I know I told you why the knock sensor is reading like that. But I'm not sure if I told you it is making the car slower even if you are not actually getting knock. The 3.2 is equivalent to pulling about 10* of timing. Figured I would let you know that is really holding the car back.

Your ecu is also pulling one degree of timing due to the coolant temperature being over 206*.

Something is up with your setup based off the wideband readings. Since it is running so rich at wot I would have to say boost leaks. What pressure did you do the last boost leak test to? Did you use soapy water? How long did it hold pressure?

Based off the wot log I would add about 4% to the 1200hz slider. But, I would try to find out why the wideband is reading so rich first. If it is reading that rich due to boost leaks, then the amount you need to change the sliders will change once the leaks are fixed.

tbonitz301 · 06-09-2008, 02:47 PM

Ok well that makes sense about the ecu pulling timing even with the KS turned off. That's definetly whats holding the car back. Cause when the knock sensor actually works for that split second it really pulls hard. Im going to see if i can fix that. If i cant get around the knock sensor could i just lock in the timing?Man ive been doing boost leak tests for a week straight everyday after work. I pressurize it to 25psi, and it takes about two seconds to leak off each psi.The car runs real smooth,just no power. Do you think i should keeo leaning it out?Wouldnt i be blowing lots of smoke running that rich?

My1GLaser · 06-09-2008, 03:12 PM

If you are sure there are no boost leaks, then I would start looking at fuel delivery. You have a ton of fuel pulled, but your WB and front O2 verify a rich condition. Where the calc A/F suspects about 12:1 due to airflow and inj pulsewidth.

Verify base fuel pressure.
Are your 650s really 650s?
Does your AFPR rise at a 1:1 Rate? (highly doubtful it would be increasing fuel pressure more than 1:1. Normally it would have a slight leak and not rise with boost psi fast enough, but worth a check if you are out of options.)

What does your WB gauge read during a pull? If it differs from the gauge, then you can try some of the other WB values to see which one logs the closest.

On a side note, you need to get your coolant temps down.

Out of curiosity, what was your spark plug gap before you regapped it? IMO, a 16g should not flow enough to blow out a spark unless your gap was way to high to begin with.

Slower than normal spool could be from the ECU pulling timing on an already low 2g timing curve.

But, I think your wastegate could be stuck partially open. My brand new 16g had that issue and I had to shim the w/g off the compressor cover with a couple small washers to put a little tension on the rod get it to fully close.

tbonitz301 · 06-09-2008, 03:30 PM

The only thing i know about the injectors is they have fic650 etched into them.The dsmlink was previously owned ny someone who had it setup for 950's. Ive already done my global and deadtime. Do i have to copy it to ecu? How do i do that? BTW i burn about a 1/4 tank in 30 min

. So yeah im running rich. MPG is way lower than it used to be. The plugs were gapped at .028, and i took them down to .024 to temporarily fix the problem. I'm guessing i have weak ign. system, but i replaced the coils about 6months ago. Ive been trying to get my temps down. I just flushed the system, and added some water wetter.Yes your right about the slow spool caused by pulled timing. My wideband usaully is 1:1 lower than my dsmlink logs.

1992awdlaser · 06-09-2008, 03:40 PM

The spark could be getting blown out due to all the fuel in the cylinders soaking the plugs. Your global and deadtime are correct. If no boost leaks I would think fuel pressure would be the next thing to check. Maybe the siphon tube in the tank is not flowing enough and raising the fuel pressure.

What is your g/rev at at idle?

My1GLaser · 06-09-2008, 03:48 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by tbonitz301

My wideband usaully is 1:1 lower than my dsmlink logs.

Lower as in 8:1.

tbonitz301 · 06-09-2008, 03:56 PM

Edit:i'm sorry i meant that my wideband reads 10:1 in the car, but 9:1 on the logs My g/rev at idle is around .026.FP seems fine. No i havent changed the global or deadtime before a run. So i guess its right then.My WB reads about 10.4:1 at wot

1992awdlaser · 06-09-2008, 04:17 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by tbonitz301

Edit:i'm sorry i meant that my wideband reads 10:1 in the car, but 9:1 on the logs My g/rev at idle is around .026.FP seems fine. No i havent changed the global or deadtime before a run. So i guess its right then.My WB reads about 10.4:1 at wot

Your g/rev is right around where it should be then. Your wideband gauge is what you want to go off of. Have you tried the other values in dsmlink to see if it logs closer to the gauge? If it reads 10.4:1 then the car isn't too rich. I would get it to where the gauge reads around 11.8:1-11.0:1.