KYB Shocks & Eibach Springs

[miamieclipse]

Apparently the guy who used to own my car dropped it by just cuttin the springs. I am gettin new springs & Shocks now and i want to find out if this is a good combo, i am thinkin of getting KYB GR2 Gas-Shocks w/ Eibach Sportline/Pro-Kit. I am also going to get Brake Pads as i need them , so what do u guys recomend.

My Current Suspension Mods is just my front n rear strut bars, i am goin to get rims soon n i will get z-rated tires. But right now im going to order the shocks & Springs so what do u guys recomend?

 

[onepimpclipse]

That will be a good suspension for starters. (without having a heavily modified car or spending $1000 + on a set of coilovers) I however went with Tokico blues for my shocks. They ride great and are not bouncy at all. I want to change my springs to the pro kit. You'll be happy with those.

EBC green stuff pads are good.

Or the 2 piston calipers off of a 2G GSX.
http://www.2gnt.com/nuke/modules.php?name=Sections&op=viewarticle&artid=31



As far as Z rated tires I prefer H rated because they are softer and will stick a little better. Besides, how often do you drive 140MPH+. Just a thought.






If you decide to get rims, more than likely you will need to roll the rear fenders.


Most importantly, get a rear camber kit at least. Then get an alignment AS SOON AS YOU LOWER THE CAR.


If you ignore my last piece of advice you WILL be buying new tires within 6 months just like me.

 

[jtmcinder]

Sportlines are way too low. ProKits are OK, but H&R springs are better. Why? Better spring rates ... help reduce understeer.

I don't like any OTS shocks other than Konis, especially when the car is going to be lowered. Konis are shorter than any other OTS shock and have the best rebound to compression ratio when cranked up.

If you don't left-foot brakes, I like Axxis Metal Masters for the street. Good bite and not too hard on the rotors. I have EBC Greens right now (since I was told that they'd stand up to serious LFBing) and I hate them. Decent feel, but no real bite. I should have gotten R4Ss, but was in a hurry since the car doesn't stop very well with no brake pads.

- Jtoby

 

[igs]

Eibach "kits" are essentially the same as cut stock springs.

 

[jtmcinder]

Actually, ProKits can easily be argued to be worse than cut stock springs. Cutting a spring makes it - ready for this? - shorter, which increases the spring rate. The stock springs on an AWD 2G, for example, have rates of 265/162. ProKits have rates of 330/160. So ProKits raise the front rate while leaving the rears as they are. In other words, ProKits dial in more understeer than what you had to start with. Cutting the stock springs will raise both the front and rear rates. It won't take out much if any of the understeer, but at least it won't make it worse.

On the other hand, H&R springs have rates of 430/260, which - when you take the motion ratios into account - maintain the same front to rear wheel-rate ratio as stock.

This is why I argue for H&R springs if you want OTS springs.

Better yet is a set of coil-overs from any source that allows you to choose your own spring rates.

- Jtoby

 

[miamieclipse]

damn guys now im confused, i rarely come into the suspension forum as i will stay over in the performace forum. I am going to go w/ the KYB Shocks, i am currently runnin stock springs which were cut (dumbass previous owner ) Which springs would be good for my car? I had heard Eibachs were good, apparently not, so which should i get w/ the KYB Shocks.

And about the tires, that is true when am i gonna go over 140+, which rating do u reccomend?

Thanks!

 

[onepimpclipse]

Jtm has many good points as usual. I'm with him on the Koni's and the H&R's but, if you're on a budget the KYB's and Prokit will be fine.


As for the tires, like I said earlier, I prefer H rated since they are a little softer. They stick better and absorb the road a little better.

 

[miamieclipse]

True about the tires, what about if i go w/ the KYB Shocks w/ the S&R Springs and H-rated Tires?

 

[jtmcinder]

If you're on a budget and want some cheap, good tires, then Falken Azenis in 225/45/17 have the best stick:$ ratio out there. They want to be on 17x7.5 or 17x8.0 wheels in +40mm offset. Sadly, you can't get Azenis in 245/40/17, but 225 Azenis have as much tread as anyone else's 235 and it's very sticky stuff. If you insist on the tire lasting longer, then Kuhmo MXs. These come is lots of sizes. Do yourself the favor and find 17x8.0 wheels, in case you switch to 245/40/17s down the road.

- Jtoby

 

[mavisky]

since we're talking spring rates, is there anywhere i could find the spring rates for fwd 1g eibach sportlines.

 

[heavyD]

Originally posted by jtmcinder
Actually, ProKits can easily be argued to be worse than cut stock springs.

- Jtoby

I call BS on that one. Cut stock springs are NEVER recommended period. Calling pro kits worse than cut stock springs is one of the most asinine comments I have ever heard in the forums. If you can't afford to purchase springs, leave the stock ones alone until you can.

 

[jtmcinder]

You can call BS all you want. Ashcroft hasn't taken that away (yet). And maybe there are some lurkers who take your opinion seriously, even when it comes with no data. So your post was probably useful. But are you ready to really discuss it?

I've already explained why I prefer cut stock springs to ProKits. In case you missed it: ProKits raise the front spring rate, but leave the rear rate as is. This causes more weight to transfer at the front, which adds in more understeer to a car that starts off as an understeering pig. Cut stock springs, on the other hand, have higher rates in the front and the rear. While it is difficult to cut the rears so much more than the fronts to get a serious increase in rear weight transfer, anything is better than raising only the front rates.

If your concern is how do you cut springs safely, then almost any decent book on suspension tuning can explain the process. The keys to getting it right are to know the original rates and the corner weights of the car. This way you can get the car the way that you want it the first time and not have to repeat the process (or worse: have to throw the springs out after cutting too much). The stock rates on premium 2G AWDs are 265/162. The corner weights are about 950/650. I have never measured the raw length of the stock springs, but that's the only other piece of data you need.

Assuming, of course, that you know how to do the math.

- Jtoby

 

[heavyD]

I'm not even going to bother arguing with you. As I said before you are giving poor advise as cutting springs is unsafe and leads to poorer handling this is common knowledge and I have NEVER heard it recomended.

And why does every guy with H&R springs always to bash Eibach springs? Is it some kind of inferiority complex?

 

[mavisky]

well i've been doing a little research and i'm just curious how you came up with a static number for a progressive rate spring. it's not going to be a linear rate, rather as the suspension compresses it will get exponentially stiffer.

 

[jtmcinder]

Progressive springs are not exponential; they're geometric. As to how to summarize the rate on these things, you squash the spring using the approximate corner weight of the car and then measure the rate at that point. Close enough for internet discussions. FYI: I always assume 950/650 weights, because that's what my car weighs.

- Jtoby <- on Eibach springs

ps. Heavy: if you even get some data and/or experience to go with those opinions, let me know; what I am trying to do is make "common knowledge" a lot more detailed than what it is now; people who just repeat crap like "X is unsafe" or "I've never heard of Y" are the ones making this harder

 

[heavyD]

*moderator edit* alright grow up and agree to disagree its that simple, no reason for personal attacks *moderator edit*