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Non-expensive brake upgrade?

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Libila

20+ Year Contributor
1,099
0
Oct 13, 2002
Carson City, Nevada
I would really like to upgrade my brakes but I dont want to go all out and buy Baer or AEM units. I have a 95 talon tsi FWD. Ive heard that some 1gs had better brakes. Im really new to this so please bear with me. Im looking at getting braided lines with better calipers, pads, and rotors. Pretty much I am asking for some recommendations. Thanks in advance guys:thumb:
 
If you have the smaller single piston calipers the cheapest upgrade is the dual piston calipers and rotors from the AWD versions and it makes a huge difference.

Search here for "Big Brakes" or go to the Big Brake VFAQ http://www.vfaq.com/mods/BigBrakesInfo.html

Steve
 
AWD cars 92 or 93+ got the dual piston calipers and bigger rotors. u could just go pick up the caliper froma junkyard, order some power slots, get some metallic brake pads too.
 
Originally posted by jtmcinder
What, exactly, is it about your current brakes that you don't like?

- Jtoby

Its not that I dont like them but I would feel alot safer going out to thunder hill with some better brakes. I dont want to go full big brake kit because this is my street car.

I have also seen people say that upgraded rotors arnt good for street use, might I ask why? I would think something simple like power slots and better pads with the dual piston caliper brakes would be perfect. Please correct me if Im wrong.

One last thing, what kind of pads would be best? Ive heard portfeilds are good but what kind exactly for the front and back? Also the upgraded calipers are just for the front correct? Thanks in advance.
 
Change your lines to steel braided. It is relatively cheap, and the gains in feel and stopping will be noticed immediately. If you have a place that carries stainless steel flex lines you should be able to remove your old rubber lines, take them in and have them match the fittings on the brake lines to the new stainless steel lines.
 
My suggestion is to try some R4S pads and then wait and see if you really need to anything more.

- Jtoby
 
For the street, yeah - I had them and loved them, too - but I think that the poster mentioned road racing. If you go to the track (or even left-foot brake when autoXing), you'll find that Metal Masters can't take the heat. That's why I suggested R4Ss.

- Jtoby
 
I have Porterfield R4S on both my Diamante and the GSX. I put cheap autozone semi-metalic pads on when I first did the big brake upgrade and they were a big improvement over the stock but they were pretty hard on the rotors. The porterfields are great and don't seem to be wearing the rotors as quickly.

Steve
 
So you guys really dont think getting dual piston calipers and rotors are worth it? So just stick with portfields and ss lines?
 
the swap to the bigger calipers is unbelievably easy! i'd recomend it to anyone who wants a step up from the inadequet braking of the single piston calipers.
not only will you be able to stop faster, but warping a rotor is VERY hard to do on the street!
my old rotors useto rattle the steering wheel off when i had them......... now i can stop way faster and its smooth as hell!
try pads and see how you like it..... if you're still craving more then definately don't hesitate to put on the 2 piston calipers!
i did and i love it!
 
I have bendix c3 ceramic pads on my fronts and they are unbelievable. I have never had a car stop so fast in my life and they haven't overheated on me yet either. Of course, I don't do any weekend racing either, but it is a great street pad with a lot of clamp for me.
 
For a quick lesson;

The benefits of your twin piston set up is really less of the number of pistons but rather the fact that they spread the load over the entire surface of the pad better.

The piston area of the two set ups is nearly equal, slightly more in the twin caliper. This creates slightly more clamp load for the given input pressure. And as said; doesn't turn the pad into a banana. Down side may be that if using the smaller 15/16 mc the pedal will be a bit further on travel to displace this fluid. You might do well to consider the 1" version. This one simply requires more 'leg' to make the calipers work thus gives the feel of 'better brakes' without the softer pedal.

BUT, the down side is that all this combined with some zoomy pads and hoses may well make one drive harder and thus overheat the package rendering the 'upgrade' less valuable.

Whatever you choose, running hard and not allowing ample cooling time will be the root of any future problems.
 
you also gain an inch in rotor diamater.......which results in more braking torque being produced
and, i dont know how much this would effect stopping power, there is more material to absorb heat on the caliper......a small amount, but everybit counts......
i noticed a huge difference from before and after i did my upgrade, and can impress my other friends with t/e/l's compared to there stock brakes so i'm happy with my setup and would recomend it to anyone who wants a decent brake upgrade
 
Originally posted by workin_on_it
you also gain an inch in rotor diamater.......which results in more braking torque being produced

You increased the length of your lever arm is what you're searching for.

The increased rotor diameter still doesn't make for enough mass to have the brakes perform even close to satisfactory on a track. If you're doing track days the stock brakes aren't going to cut it, even with cooling ducts.
 
Funny you mention it, working on some other things yesterday I did some number crunching in the Excel program.

While you are right that the larger rotor dia does increase the torque it's not as much overall increase as you might think. The biggest gains are in piston area and pad CF.

If I had it here at home I'd run some numbers to show you how it pans out. Half inch of rotor did not make near the change as did going from 1.0 to 1.25 pistons for example.

It was an interesting experiment I'll have to do more of.
 
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