No camber/caster adjustment for GSX?

[tqlla]

Hey, I just got back from the alignment shop. I need my camber adjusted big time

My camber is
Front
L -1.2
R -1.9

Rear
L -2.0
R -2.1

According to Alldata, there is no adjustment for the Caster or Camber.

Curses. I spent $50 for Toe Adjustment on one wheel

 

[tsunari]

That's correct- There is no Camber/Caster adjustments on any of the stock eclipses.

However there ARE front and rear camber kits available. I personally suggest the Ingalls kits.

 

[brentsd]

looks like your rear camber is in spec acually. I have the washer/bolt camber kit on my rear and its at 2.1 which is just the edges of spec, but your front is out. Get the SPC kit, its a little better than the ingalls but you'll be good with both of them.

 

[TrenTSteeL]

any particular reason why its is better
also which one would you get the 1.5 deg or the 3deg adjust ment kit for the front
ingalls i believe has only a 1 deg and 3 deg. ....... is that extra .5 deg. spc offers for the front necessary and will there be fitment issues since the spc is .5 deg longer than the ingalls 1 deg

i heard some bad fitment issues about the 3 deg adjustment kit

 

[MNGSX]

I'd go with the SPC bushings...

You end up with clearance issues when people drop the heck out of their car and try to put camber back to stock...

It moves the arm outward and the tip can hit the inner fender... The adjustable ball joints move the arm up decreasing travel.

IMHO I'd run -2 degrees...

I'd try to figure out where the difference in camber is coming from between your fronts.

Check the ride height... Lower R front = more neg camber.

Check the bushings and ball joints for wear and play...

Look for a bent upper control arm.. Possible but I'm thinking more ride height and bushing..

I left my front camber alone after lowering it and just brought the rear back in spec... I like it....

 

[TrenTSteeL]

ok i should elaborate more, my balljoints, tie rods, and control arm are fine had it checked out by someone

the things is i'm going to install some tein flex and will be running them at recommended tein specs which is about a 1.5 drop, i just need some camber kits that will put to spec, i'm even don't mind a little bit of negative camber since the car is supposed to handle better, does anyone know how much negative camber i can get away with?

so with that in mind i was considering either the ingalls 1deg or the spc 1.5 deg (does .5 deg more that spc offers matter as far as fitment issues and adjustments) since it should put it to spec and it seems that a little bit of negative camber can be okay.

i did not know if i should get the the spc and ingalls 3 deg kit because some people say that it might not fit and it might be overkill since some negative camber in the front can be good for handling, as long at toe is set to 0/spec

 

[jtmcinder]

FYI: Lots of 97+ DSMs have more right front camber than left, just like they have more right caster than left.

-2 degrees of front camber is fine and won't cause excessive front tire wear if you also have zero front toe (which is spec). Dropping the rear camber down to a bit over -1 degree will help the car handle and also allow you to run some rear toe-in (for stability) without undue rear tire wear.

- Jtoby

 

[MNGSX]

Any Idea on where the difference from one side to the other is at.

 

[dewdew]

There is some slight camber adjustment on the rear of 1g cars, nothing for the 2g though

 

[my95tsi]

After i dropped my car my camber in the front was L 1.8 R 3.4
Talk about having uneven camber. I got the eccentric cam bolt and the alignment shop maxed out both of them and the left front was fine while the right front stuck at -2.5 degrees. My upper ball joint is going bad so i'm just going to get the adjustable ball joints to fix my camber problem. I'm also going to get all new bushings for the suspension. I don't think my lowere ball joints have any problem they were done under recall in 2001.

Does anybody know how to instal adjustable ball joints, do you need a press to get out the old one?

FYI: Lots of 97+ DSMs have more right front camber than left, just like they have more right caster than left.

-2 degrees of front camber is fine and won't cause excessive front tire wear if you also have zero front toe (which is spec). Dropping the rear camber down to a bit over -1 degree will help the car handle and also allow you to run some rear toe-in (for stability) without undue rear tire wear.

- Jtoby

 

[PsSsShTGSX]

go to autozone and borrow the ball joint press and the ball joint seperator. i will be doing this install tomorrow with a friend and ill post how it goes. btw, what should i set it to? i want great handleing, but im willing to sacrafice that a lil bit to get the best tire possible.
-chris

 

[Omega]

Does anyone have a link for the SPC bushings?

 

[Rx3]

Road Race Engineering carries the kit I believe. $110 for fronts, $40 for rears

http://www.roadraceengineering.com/eclsuspension.htm


Or you can try here:


http://www.mitsubishiperformanceparts.net/product.asp?pid=5013

or

http://sportcompactsolutions.com/catalog/index.php?cPath=26_51_405

 

[Toshiro]

I'd go with the SPC bushings...

You end up with clearance issues when people drop the heck out of their car and try to put camber back to stock...

It moves the arm outward and the tip can hit the inner fender... The adjustable ball joints move the arm up decreasing travel.

How much of a drop are you talking about? I would think the Ingalls kit would be easier to install, but would it clear ok with a 1.5 inch drop or so?

 

[PsSsShTGSX]

let me say first that installing adjustable ball joints its not a few hour process like i thought. it became a few day process for me. taking off the old rusted shit is always the hardest. it took me from about 1 pm thurs to 8pm sun to get this whole front and rear kit on. i would reccomend ingalls over the adjustable ball joints, because it was an absolute bi*** to install. however if u have the money to have it taken elsewhere, for some poor bastard to work on, then by all means.
on a positive note, im riding on a prokit, and the kit has def got rid of all my negative camber. however it wont be aligned til wednesday. all 4 tires have positive camber and my car is driving like its on jello. I decided to go with this kit, because later on down the road if i want a lower drop, then i wont have to buy another kit.
-chris

 

[Jon Lane]

I used Ingalls on the front but made my own rear camber adjustment.

I researched bolts (the upper A arm bolts-to-body for the 2G are higher-grade metrics, not surprisingly) and bought a set of new, longer ones from Lowes. They weren't cheap; like a couple bucks each. I also bought washers to shim the arms out a bit.

I dropped about 1-3/8" front and rear. My lucky "preliminary" setup, done in the garage by eye, got the rear camber to within under a half a degree of zero, which was confirmed by the shop when I had the fronts aligned.

 

[my95tsi]

Why was it so hard to install? It takes about 20 minutes to get the upper a-arm off. The most difficult thing to do would be removing the old ball joint but if you rent a ball joint puller from autozone it comes out no problem. And putting the new stuff on is just a matter of tightening bolts.

let me say first that installing adjustable ball joints its not a few hour process like i thought. it became a few day process for me. taking off the old rusted shit is always the hardest. it took me from about 1 pm thurs to 8pm sun to get this whole front and rear kit on. i would reccomend ingalls over the adjustable ball joints, because it was an absolute bi*** to install. however if u have the money to have it taken elsewhere, for some poor bastard to work on, then by all means.
on a positive note, im riding on a prokit, and the kit has def got rid of all my negative camber. however it wont be aligned til wednesday. all 4 tires have positive camber and my car is driving like its on jello. I decided to go with this kit, because later on down the road if i want a lower drop, then i wont have to buy another kit.
-chris

 

[PsSsShTGSX]

well no its not hard to do. i can get that arm off in 5 mins. its just a matter of getting that ball joint out. i tried with that press as hard as i could with a breaker bar for leverage and a damn tire iron. it was mad hard to do. so i pressed one out, and banged out the other. then pressing it back it wasnt going right. i did a comination of pressing and hammering the new pieces back in. basically everything that can go wrong did. if things had gone smoothly yes it would have been a few hour project. now on to the rear camber kit. the rear bolts from the bracket to the arm were the biggest rusted bitches ever. trying to take them off with pentrating oil and a breaker bar wasnt cutting it. we had to dremel off the nut, and then bang it out with a hammer. while attaching the arm to the car, a bolt stripped and the bolts the came with the kit didnt even fit. so we had to find one damn close to it and force it in. just to give u an idea of how rusted these bolts were, we broke both a 17 and a 14mm socket.
-chris

 

[my95tsi]

I just did my ball joint install yesterday. Took 20 minutes per wheel. I'm not bashing you but i just realized while doing the install that you don't need to press the old ball joints out. After trying to press my ball joint out i realized that its held on by a "c" clamp on the top, once you pull that off it pops right out. The new one goes right in once you tighten the upper bolt.

The main reason i replaced my ball joints was because my suspension was popping and my upper ball joint boot was torn. But even after i replaced the ball joints my suspension still pops. I think my bushings are bad so now i need to do all those too.

 

[PsSsShTGSX]

damn it, . i really could have used u here to help then. haha. good job man.