The Central Hub for DSM Community and Information

For 1990-1999 Mitsubishi Eclipse, Eagle Talon, Plymouth Laser, and Galant VR-4 Owners. This is where the DSM platform history is documented and archived. Log in to help us in our mission, and to remove most ads from the browsing experience.

"Real" 1G rear camber kit - $50!!

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

King Salami

20+ Year Contributor
170
4
Jun 27, 2002
Oklahoma City, Oklahoma
Just updating some info NDGSX posted here last Fall...
He found a real rear camber kit for 1G DSMs - it replaces the original control arm bushings with eccentric bushings (no cheesy shimming of the rear mounts, or having to replace the whole control arm!), but unfortunately, Mofugas does not carry it anymore.
You can get this kit - Part #KCA 365 (for Gallant VR4) for around $50 delivered from Whiteline.com.au (Australia).
Enjoy!
 
Paraphrasing NDGSX...
Install isn't that bad. Unbolt the upper control arm and use a pickle fork or preferably a small gear puller (napa and other parts stores should rent one to you). Burn out the stock bushing with a propane torch (careful the gas is nasty). Clean out the metal sleeve in the arm with a wire brush and sand paper. Grease the new bushings, and put the eccentric sleeve through the bushings with the hole positioned so that it makes the arm longer. You now have 3 degrees less camber and another 3 degrees of stock adjustment.
 
I've put them on three cars, exactly like I describe it in the quote. They work great. Once the bolt is torqued down they can not rotate either, it is a permenant solution.

You may notice the bushings want to pop out, I put the arm in a bench vice to keep them compressed, then clean out the subframe (where the bushing touches), apply the grease to the subframe, then put the arms in as quickly as I can after removing them from the vice.
 
I used upper rear tubular control arms (fully adjustable) from Engall's Engineering in Colorado, to correct my rear camber problems. I like them. If you use these you may NOT want to reuse the original upper ball joint. If so ask the parts man for a front lower ball joint as they are the same joint and the original is serviced as a complete arm only.
(that info cost me to get , too, tho I pass it on for free.) One warning.... if you run over a huge pothole, or a parking lot barrier or the like, these babys can be a little lightly constructed for off road rally cross but for normal operation I find them a real headache solver. For what it is worth.
 
Add Value - Be Respectful - No Trolling - No Misinformation - Participate Often!
Support Vendors who Support the DSM Community

Build Thread Updates

Latest Classifieds

Back
Top