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Rear brake noise after rotor/pad replacement

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gregalmighty

15+ Year Contributor
126
1
Mar 22, 2008
Sheffield Lake, Ohio
Just replaced the rear rotors and pads on my 2g and now I'm getting a kind of scraping noise. Its pretty constant but sounds as if something is warped or only scraping on one part of the rotor if that makes sense. It does it whether I'm driving or braking. If I take a hard right turn it seems to fade, if i take a hard left turn it gets louder. It only *seems* to be coming from the rear right wheel from what I can tell. I did have some issues with the caliper on this side but the piston itself was fine and I was able to fix the guide which was stuck. Do the pads just need to wear down a bit and "break in" ? The wheels spin freely and it doesn't seem to hurt performance from what I can tell but it concerns me that when I turn if has an effect on the noise.

I came across this article: Instructions for bedding in your brakes

It has a series of steps to break in big brake kits but I don't know if this even applies to me since I have standard replacements from napa (rotors) and advance (silver pads). Also the front rotors and pads were replaced by the previous owner a short while ago so thats why I only did the rears.

Honestly this is my first time replacing pads AND rotors so I am not sure if this is normal or if I have an issue on my hands here but it doesn't seem right.

Anyway let me know what you think is going on here. I know the anti rattle clips can get shifted sometimes and the dust shield can get bent but I'm not sure if this is the case, I'll have to check it out.
 
How did the dust shield and shim check go? Is it still making the noise? Is there any smoking, or the right wheel hotter than the left after driving?

The pads should fit snugly in the bracket, but be able to slide. If you had to jam them in there you could have a pad hanging up, possibly due to a pad defect or bent shim.

Was the boot on the caliper ripped? Did the piston go back in smothly? This noise could also be caused by a bad caliper or guide sticking. If the guide was stuck you need to clean the guide itself and where it goes into very well. A wire brush works well on the guide and I've beadblasted guide holes in the past to clean them out. Then lubricate.

Any play in the tire when jacked up and shaken at 12 and 6 o clock?
 
Thanks for the response, I think the pads just needed to break in a little bit. I haven't experienced the noise since and I haven't noticed anything out of the ordinary since then.

Nothing else was rubbing on the rotor
No smoking, neither side gets hotter than the other
The pads fit perfectly, no problems installing, made sure the anti rattle clips didn't get bumped too close to the rotor.
The boot on the caliper wasn't damaged, I cleaned out the guide hole and oiled it and lubed it and the guide moved freely once again.
Piston went in smooth as butter when I pushed it in with a C clamp.
And as far as I can tell there is no play in the tire, however I am missing a lug stud on that wheel which I hope isn't going to cause any problems before I get a new one tapped in.

So after your checklist I guess I was just being paranoid. I've probably put close to 70 miles on them now and I don't hear the noise at all anymore or visually see anything wrong. Thanks again for the help!

Edit: Just noticed your from NE Ohio, how close are you to Lorain?
 
No problem. Sounds like they just needed a good seating in, not uncommon. I don't think the stud would cause the problem either as long as the wheel was bolted on evenly, just get it replaced ASAP.

I am in the Norwalk area. So about 40 minutes to Lorain. I will be at Norwalk Raceway on Wednesday, if you wanted to come out and make some passes. Only two more Wednesdays left this race season!
 
Thats good that this isn't uncommon, I was a little worried. I don't think either of my cars are track worthy right now haha as much as I would like to. If I do show up though I'll look for you. I'm assuming you'll be in the blue 1g in your profile?
 
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