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Scraping Sound When Spinning Wheel

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snowborder714

Moderator
16,188
461
Oct 15, 2006
Mechanicsburg, Pennsylvania
Over the summer I had done a full brake job, including rebuilding all 4 calipers and installing new PowerSlot slotted rotors, Axxis MetalMaster pads, and ss lines all around. With the rear of the car jacked up, when I spin a wheel, I get a scraping sound. I tried adjusting the e-brake from behind the rotor and also at the line under the center console. Neither of these have helped. I also thought maybe the rotors needed set or the pads needed worn down a bit, but after properly seating the rotors and driving a bit more, it's still making noise. I have a few videos of it that I included.

I had started a similar thread right after completing the brake job - http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/handling-tech/264136-new-brake-system-problems.html

Passenger's side:

*won't upload for some reason*

Driver's side:

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I can't see jack, but it sounds like the E-brake is not properly adjusted.

That video isn't as good as the passenger's side video (which is almost done uploading).

My brother and I think it's the e-brake as well, but I loosened the adjusting nut the whole way and it's still making sounds. I swear I tried everything that involves adjusting the e-brake. I followed the instructions from my Chilton manual. Maybe I'm not doing it right?
 
is it coming from the front or both front and rear. Reason I say its the dust shields because they bend easy especially the bottom area and it really sounds like metal to metal contact. Its an easy thing to check, no need to remove wheels. Just push on parts of the dust shield away from you.
 
is it coming from the front or both front and rear. Reason I say its the dust shields because they bend easy especially the bottom area and it really sounds like metal to metal contact. Its an easy thing to check, no need to remove wheels. Just push on parts of the dust shield away from you.

Just the rears.
 
Check that the anti-rattle clips aren't bent, then remove the rotor and inspect the parking brake assembly for missing retaining pins and caps, unset shoes, and wear.
 
I had a similar sound come from my rear tires before too. Turned out to be the rotors were warped. Granted yours are new but I would check for warpage anyway maybe?
 
Well, I took everything off yesterday (wheel, rotor, caliper, bracket) and looked around in there. Nothing seemed to be missing or out of place. The rotors didn't seem warped either. I still have no idea what is causing the noise so I'm going to take it to my mechanic and see if he can figure out.

One thing I did find out is it seems the outside of the hub isn't a perfect circle (or isn't spinning in a perfect circle, I can't figure out which). So maybe I need to replace the hubs, but I'm not sure. I'll keep everyone posted after I take it to the mechanic.

Thanks so far for everything.
 
I'm snowborder714's brother.

I was working on the car today and took one of the rear calipers off and checked the rotor and hub. I didn't notice anything wrong with anything. So I put it all back together and decided to take a little test drive. The car seemed to drive ok. It hasn't been driven much at all in the past 8 months so I can't really remember how it used to drive. When I got back, both of the rear wheels were extremely hot and when I jacked up the rear end neither of them would spin. This leads me to believe both rear calipers seized. The front wheels weren't hot so they're ok.

My question is, what are the chances that both rear calipers decided to seize up since the car was last driven a few weeks ago? Keep in mind we rebuilt all 4 calipers this past summer. Any other ideas about what is wrong?

We're really getting desperate here guys, it has really been one thing after another with this car for the past 8 months and it's wearing me down :(
 
OK, I just started the car, moved it about 2 feet, shut it off, jacked up the rear end, and now the wheels are back to spinning roughly like they did before. Could the calipers still be seized? What else explains the wheels being so hot? And no, I wasn't driving around with the e-brake on.

Please, anything you guys can think of would be great.

Oh, and the rotors aren't warped, the anti-rattle clips aren't bent, and I don't think the problem has to do with the e-brake because when I took the calipers off the wheel spun freely.
 
make sure the caliper pins are sliding. Did you guys grease them when you put them back together. Sometimes they will stick and not allow the pads to slide away from rotor. Check it out, let me know.
 
make sure the caliper pins are sliding. Did you guys grease them when you put them back together. Sometimes they will stick and not allow the pads to slide away from rotor. Check it out, let me know.

Thanks for the reply. Yes, I greased both the caliper pins with special grease meant for brake applications and they are properly torqued. How can I check to make sure the caliper pins are sliding?
 
You should be able to visually see the caliper move away. Also pull the pins out and make sure they are straight. Sometimes they can get bent. But first take the wheels off and have your brother push the brake while you watch. They should move enough for you to see whats going on.
 
I will check that out tomorrow. Thanks again for the help.

Just another update: took the car for a drive today, did a few quick stops from about 40 mph. When I got home I checked the wheels - the fronts were cold and the rears were warm but I could keep my hand on them without burning myself. They weren't as hot as they were yesterday.
 
If worse comes to worse, just go to a local O'reillys and buy rebuilt calipers for the rear. On my fiancee's 98 GSX, I swapped all of them out. (One of the fronts were sticking, but just decided to replace all of them) Based on what your telling me, the rear pads are staying in contact with the rotors. So I'm gonna say they are sticking or the caliper pins are sticking.
 
Ya, that's one option we've thought of. It's just hard to believe the calipers are bad since we just rebuilt them this past summer and the car has been hardly driven since then. Plus, he's dumped a TON of money into this car in the past year in maintenance and mods and he's running out of cash to spend right now. :( We would just like to have the car driveable again :coy:
 
Is there any way besides a rebuild to fix a sticking caliper? Could I take the caliper out and work the piston in and out a bit with the boot still on? Maybe that would help free it up a little.

Or maybe the caliper is sticking just from lack of use since the car hasn't been driven much. I guess I could just keep driving it around and see if the problem gets better? I just don't want to ruin the new pads and rotors too because I neglected to fix the caliper issue.
 
Your video sounds like pads rubbing on the rotor which i'm sure is what you've figured out. Mine do this from time to time and I'll go just beat the crap out of my car and it goes away. Have you pulled the caliper off and installed the lugs back on to spin it to see if it makes noise? (to either say yes its coming from the caliper or no its coming from the e-brake)
You say you've rebuild the calipers, does the piston still push in fairly easy as if you were compressing it for new pads? Did you greese the points on the pad that ride along the caliper mount and are those all cleaned out? caliper pins straight? are those holes cleaned out before your greesed them so they don't stick? Use that anti rattle goop to put on the backs of pads? (It holds the pad to the caliper so they don't rattle or stick as easy)
 
Have you pulled the caliper off and installed the lugs back on to spin it to see if it makes noise? (to either say yes its coming from the caliper or no its coming from the e-brake)

Yes, and when I spun the wheel without the caliper on it made no noise. So the caliper is the problem.

does the piston still push in fairly easy as if you were compressing it for new pads?

What is your deifinition of easy? I didn't have any problems compressing the pistons with a c-clamp and a piece of wood.

Did you greese the points on the pad that ride along the caliper mount and are those all cleaned out?

Yes.

caliper pins straight?

Yes, as far as I can remember. I'm going to check them again next time I get to work on the car.

are those holes cleaned out before your greesed them so they don't stick?

Which holes are you talking about? I have never cleaned out any hole before reinstalling the calipers. I just regrease the caliper pins and install them.

Use that anti rattle goop to put on the backs of pads?

We bought new factory pad shims back in the summer and installed them with anti rattle goop, but we took off all the goop and shims in an effort to stop the scraping of the pads against the rotor. This did help a little because it made the pad "skinnier", but obviously didn't help enough. He has Axxis MetalMaster pads and according to the manufacturer, shims aren't needed anyway.

I will double check all of these things next time I work on the car. Thanks for the suggestions.
 
The holes I was refering to are the ones the pins go into. This is unless the pins slide nice and easy. Also the caliper piston going in easy; I mean normally I use a pair of large channel locks and don't have to use all of my strength. If you have to use a LOT of force then the calipers could be starting to stick.
Also, I do know axis pads are a bit harsh. I haven't been to fond of them. One thing you could try is to just pick up a cheap set of stock pads and install them.
Has the car been sitting? was there rust on the rotors? If the car sat for a while you could have crap on the pads. Maybe hit them with some sandpaper to take off that first layer of crap. Use a abrasive 3m pad on the rotors.
I would personally check out some cheap pads and or clean/sand down your pads and rotors (they actually make a nice rotor hone but they cost around $45 and looks similar to a cylinder hone) I've personally had noise like that after sitting and just drive the car hard through some backroads doing heavy braking and they surrender.
 
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