Rear toe arms (control)

[Cesar]

So...who's got these??
Anyone know where I can buy them, or find the parts to make them??

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[underradar92]

The nuts & spherical rod ends can be found at Mc Master Carr, the "swedge tubing" at circle track supply shops (I went to Behlings, a local place with no apparent website). The ball joints, I don't know, as I just used all rod ends & reamed out the top hole. The spacers I made at work. Here is a pic. http://dsmtuners.com/gallery/showimage.php?i=69407&catid=member&imageuser=58312

 

[92awddsm]

The nuts & spherical rod ends can be found at Mc Master Carr, the "swedge tubing" at circle track supply shops (I went to Behlings, a local place with no apparent website). The ball joints, I don't know, as I just used all rod ends & reamed out the top hole. The spacers I made at work. Here is a pic. http://dsmtuners.com/gallery/showimage.php?i=69407&catid=member&imageuser=58312

Do you remember what length tubing you used?

We also had a place local called stock car products. You can order online from them at www.stockcarproducts.com/

 

[underradar92]

Do you remember what length tubing you used?

Not only did I remember (genuine miracle), but she's in the air, so I was able to re-measure. Its 14".

 

[Cesar]

Not only did I remember (genuine miracle), but she's in the air, so I was able to re-measure. Its 14".

Did you use them just for the upper arm, or the lower one as well??

Thanks
C

 

[underradar92]

Did you use them just for the upper arm, or the lower one as well??

Thanks
C

Uppers only, for now. When I get a true coilover I intend to replace the lowers, trail arm links, and front control arms. The way the lower/outer mounts (horizontally), the amount of vertical travel looks like it may bind at full extention, with stock travel length.

 

[Eagle 5]

What size spherical bearings or rod ends did you get from McMaster Carr?

 

[underradar92]

What size spherical bearings or rod ends did you get from McMaster Carr?

5/8" PN's 4483t701 rh., 4483t702 lh. http://www.mcmaster.com/ You will want to find a 5/8" reamer for the upper outside mounting hole, as its a taper hole. It's not too tough to ream it by hand (use some oil), with a vise grip on the reamer. You'll also need to get (2) 3.5" & (2) 2.5" long 5/8" chassis bolts & locking nuts, (2) 1/8" thick spacers for the outer rod ends, so they don't bind, & relieve the inner corners of the bolts, where they come close to the rod end body. While I'm thinking of it, you'll also need (4) 1.53" diam. washers (1/4 thick? to be safe) to replace the original eccentric washers, & open up the slots in the subframe to clear the inner bolts. That about covers it, hope that all helps! Maybe I shoulda wrote a tech article .

 

[Eagle 5]

5/8" PN's 4483t701 rh., 4483t702 lh. http://www.mcmaster.com/ You will want to find a 5/8" reamer for the upper outside mounting hole, as its a taper hole. It's not too tough to ream it by hand (use some oil), with a vise grip on the reamer. You'll also need to get (2) 3.5" & (2) 2.5" long 5/8" chassis bolts & locking nuts, (2) 1/8" thick spacers for the outer rod ends, so they don't bind, & relieve the inner corners of the bolts, where they come close to the rod end body. While I'm thinking of it, you'll also need (4) 1.53" diam. washers (1/4 thick? to be safe) to replace the original eccentric washers, & open up the slots in the subframe to clear the inner bolts. That about covers it, hope that all helps! Maybe I shoulda wrote a tech article .

Scoreness! Thanks. Reaming wil be easy. I worked on our schools SAE car last year so I still have access to the shop down there. So making spacers/ parts should be easy. Also, my friend and I considered maybe using tubing instead of those bars you used, and then us making our on ends. We have a tig welder down there as well so that helps mucho.

I assume as well that you can use those to adjust camber, by moving them in and out correct? Also, is the 1/4" spacer what you use on the inner rod end? Basically it goes, bolt, sub frame, 1/4" spacer, rod end, 1/4" spacer, sub frame, nut? Though maybe use washers on the outside for the bolt head/ nut.

 

[underradar92]

I assume as well that you can use those to adjust camber, by moving them in and out correct? Also, is the 1/4" spacer what you use on the inner rod end? Basically it goes, bolt, sub frame, 1/4" spacer, rod end, 1/4" spacer, sub frame, nut? Though maybe use washers on the outside for the bolt head/ nut.

No, the 2 spacers go on the outer rod end to keep the body of the rod end from contacting the upright casting. There are 4 more spacers (2 each side, 1" diam. 5/8 thru, About .570 long, visible in the pic) that fill in the space left on each side of the inner rod end, since the stock bushing was wider.
The actual order is; bolt>large(1.52 dia.) washer>subframe>spacer>rod end>spacer>subframe>large washer>locking nut. BTW, the tubing used ("swedge tube") is cro-mo, and astonishingly cheap, cut to length, and pre-tapped LH and RH. Quite a bargain actually. And yes they do adjust camber.

 

[Eagle 5]

Oh ok, sweet. Thanks. Also, how much do those pipes/ tubes weigh? Only reason I had thought about using other tubing is more of a eight thing. Plus if i can find tubing to tap the inside I may not need to make an end. Either way, we'll see. thanks for the help. Ill post up when I get them made.

 

[omegis13]

WOW!!! Someone on here knows how to make adjustable rear control arms!?!? Will we ever see a tech article for this (I'm better at following directions than I am at actually figuring things out). HINT HINT.

Greg Heineken

 

[3literpwr]

I have Rod end and 4130 1 1/4 x.120 tubing in the rear of my car... The bottom part of the rear kuckle used a 3/4 bearing and is modded to be in double sheer... The upper is in single sheer as of now... The unit I used before where out of a round round magazine...
I used them at one rally with no failures, but decided to go to the 4130 just to be safe...

The pic shows the old round round units....

LP