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New alignment - still ugly, getting closer

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matt97gst

20+ Year Contributor
178
1
Oct 9, 2002
I got a new alignment done today. Last thing changed since last alignment (the first one below) is I added spacers to the rear - RRE spacers which are suppose to add 2 degrees, and some new wheels. My camber was actually fairly okay before but I wanted my rear toe closer to 0 and it was currently adjusted to it's max, so I thought getting rid of some camber would bring it closer to 0 which it did. That was about the only good they did.

Not sure what is up with my drivers front camber :confused:
And I guess I need have less spacers on passenger rear

Good thing is I have 2 more yrs of free alignments - the only thing is having to wait 3 hrs for it to get done.
 

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I don't know why your rear right chamber is in red, that's just fine there. As far as your front left being -1.9, I think that it would be okay. Have you noticed any uneven tire wear? My fronts are not quite that extreme but the mechanic said it should be just fine. Just keep an eye on it or use those FREE allignments up :)

-Adam
 
It's red because it's below spec.

Looking at all the numbers, I'd say the car is now listing to the right. Lots of camber "moved" from the right to the left. If you have adjustable spring perches, drop the driver's side.

- Jtoby
 
That is a bit of camber on the left side, it will definantly start wearing your tire. I am going to assume that you have already cut the strut and maxed out camber, right? Also Manufacturers call for a negative camber in most rear vehicles around -1 to -1.5. This is for when the car is taking a sharp turn the rear wheels will dig in better and prevent the rear end of the car sliding out and causing a nasty accident.
 
jtmcinder said:
It's red because it's below spec.

Looking at all the numbers, I'd say the car is now listing to the right. Lots of camber "moved" from the right to the left. If you have adjustable spring perches, drop the driver's side.

- Jtoby

Yeah it does drift to the right a little if I take my hands off the wheel. I guess I'll do less spacers on the rear right to get it closer to the left.

Also, the camber on the left is -1.6, it may look like -1.8 to some.

Would the wacky camber up front be okay?
 
cc4ever said:
That is a bit of camber on the left side, it will definantly start wearing your tire. I am going to assume that you have already cut the strut and maxed out camber, right? Also Manufacturers call for a negative camber in most rear vehicles around -1 to -1.5. This is for when the car is taking a sharp turn the rear wheels will dig in better and prevent the rear end of the car sliding out and causing a nasty accident.

Camber doesn't wear tires, toe does.
 
http://beluap.tripod.com/crash5.html "Improper camber settings can cause uneven tire wear and wheel bearing wear." ... I'm sorry about suggesting cutting the strut, I was thinking about 1st gens. I will try and be more alert on which generation I am talking about.
 
Finally got it where I want it. Not much to improve on that.
 

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Hmm...what are you using this car for? If you care about handling, you would benefit greatly from more front camber and/or less rear camber. Your camber is the same all around which isn't ideal for our cars. I would suggest more like -1.75 in the front, and maybe -.75 in the rear, or increase them some more all around if possible. Just my $0.02
 
To add to the above: you'd also do better with a lot less rear toe-in. And exactly zero front toe isn't optimal for a car with stock bushings that is driven on the highway.

- Jtoby
 
The car is driven a couple times a week and probably does maybe 2000 miles a year at the most. It seems to handle really good right now. I don't race or anything so it should be fine? I don't have any camber kits, only spacers on the rear, and that's as close we could get the toe to zero and since it's well within spec it'll have to do.

Also, can you explain about having zero toe up front Toby? Seems to be fine on the highway..
 
Exactly zero toe can cause a car to wander as the bushings compress in one direction and then the other. Furthermore, every (opposing) steering correction has to overcome this "slop" and it makes the car feel less responsive and imprecise.

It could be that all that rear toe-in is keeping this from being an issue. If you aren't having any problems, please ignore me.

As to the rear: lots of toe-in makes the car more stable (especially under hard braking) but also adds understeer. Personally, I'd halve the rear toe-in for a street car, but if you've happy, save the money.

- Jtoby
 
Thanks for the info - if I start to feel the car wandering on the highway I'll know what it should be and wont waste time on other things.

I think I'll finally leave it alone.
 
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