Shop installing suspension bushings...they won't do all need advice

[truwarrior]

I'm installing tokio springs, illunim adjustable shocks, camber kit and full bushings kit. The shop said they can only install most of the busing kit and not all of the bushings. Which ones should I make sure they install and which ones should they not install?! Car has about 95k miles. Thanks for any advice on this one!

 

[wret]

The ES kits don't come with the outboard bushings for the lateral control arms (the one connected to the shock fork). I'm not sure about the prothanes. Apparently using a urethane bushing there puts excessive side force on the shock and you are better off with the stock squishy rubber. The huge bushing where the compression control arm bolts to the chassis does not get replaced either.

 

[jtmcinder]

Extending the above (with which I agree): the inboard end of the front lower lateral arm is the single most important. Number Two is the inboard end of the rear lower arm. The trailing arm, toe-arm, and all of the uppers are all less important (for different reasons).

Which are they refusing to do? My guess is that they are having difficulty with the rear toe-arm, which has a tendency to seize. If that's the case, order new toe-arms, since they are rather inexpensive and won't seize again if done correctly and given yearly attention. If they are having difficult with the upper bushing in the rear knuckle (maybe because you almost have to remove the knuckle from the car to do this work), then consider not doing these bushings.

- Jtoby

 

[truwarrior]

got the prothane kit from dsm motorsports...sorry don't have time at the second to read your posts, but I'll look them over tonight, looks like some good info though, thanks!

 

[Strm Trpr]

They are may also be referring to the front upper control arm anchors.
If you are having a front camber kit installed like an Ingalls camber kit, then more than likely the bushings in the kit are already urethane.

To the OP, I hope you don't mind, but I have a question for Jtoby.

So the inner most bushing on the lower rear control arm is also a problem bushing?
The ES kit doesn't replace that bushing, but the Prothane Kit does.
When I did my GST, I just bought new rear lower control arms.
Perhaps I can drill some holes thru the existing bushing and cast urethane into that bushing. What are your thoughts on doing that?

 

[jtmcinder]

Right. The rear ES kit only does all three on the knuckle, the uppers, and inboard end of the trailing arm, while Prothane does the other inboards, as well. But, I'm an airhead. You want to do both ends of the lower rear lateral (after the inboard end of the front lower lateral). Those are the most important, as they take the most force in a corner and, therefore, cost you camber when they squish.

To be honest, however, I never felt much difference after doing the rear. I ran for several months with just the upper and lower fronts (after re-drilling my upper front arms) and then did some in the rear when installing longer lugs. I didn't detect any real change in precision after doing the rears. Maybe this is because I'm rather insensitive; maybe it's because I've copied Tevenor's low rear tire pressure. In any event, it was somewhat disappointing.

- Jtoby

 

[UofACATS]

I ran for several months with just the upper and lower fronts

Jtoby, is this a "kit" you used?

Your profile says ES. Did you supplement with the Prothane you speak of?

I want to get most bang for my buck, not replacing any bushings that would only be marginally effective.

My goals are for a sharper handling, tighter feeling ride. Right now its squish city. I'm interested in autocross. Profile is up to date.

Thanks for your time.