Eibach kit question....

[ILLiCliPSE]

I was at the meet tonight and my friend pulled in who I havent seen in a while...green gst, modded, you know how it goes. I asked what kind of suspension set up he had. He wasnt 100% sure...he bought the car dropped....he said that they are Eibach springs (ok...) and theyre the "black" kind (....right). Im guessing theyre the pro kit or the sportline?? Anyone know how to tell? He was on 18s and he had id say 3/4 inch wheel gap. Very nice look....I was also wondering if anyone else is going with eibach springs??

Yes I did search, found nothin about "black eibach springs"

Thanks,
Brian

 

[DGajre777]

Here you go...

Black is Eibach Pro Kits

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Red is Eibach Sportline

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Part # Description Prokit Drop F Drop R
6010.140 89-94 Eclipse 2WD Prokit 1.0" 1.0"
6011.140 89-94 Eclipse AWD Prokit 1.0" 1.0"
6014.140 95-99 Eclipse 2WD Prokit 1.2" 1.2"
6015.140 95-99 Eclipse AWD Prokit 1.3" 1.3"
6015.140 96-99 Eclipse Spyder Prokit 1.6" 1.6"

4.1060 89-94 Eclipse 2WD Sportline 1.5" 1.4"
4.1160 89-94 Eclipse AWD Sportline 1.8" 1.8"
4.1460 95-99 Eclipse 2WD Sportline 1.6" 1.6"
4.1560 95-99 Eclipse AWD Sportline 1.7" 1.7"

 

[ILLiCliPSE]

awesome..thanks man

Anyone using the sportline or the pro kit from eibach?? If I do go with these springs, a camber kit and what else would be needed?? struts?? shocks?? Im pretty much 'suspension-stupid' when it comes to that sort of stuff I could use all of the help I can get.

Thanks a lot

 

[DGajre777]

With either kit, you'll need to get an alignment after you install your springs. With the Prokits you can get away without using camber kits, but with the sportline you NEED camber kits. Shocks are needed for both since Eibach springs are stiffer than stock springs. You can get away with Tokico HP Blues with eibach pros, but for sportlines you'll need adjustable shocks.

 

[jtmcinder]

With either kit, you'll need to get an alignment after you install your springs.

I wish that you had stopped here.

With the Prokits you can get away without using camber kits, but with the sportline you NEED camber kits.

You need to be clear about front vs rear vs both being needed. Even with Prokits, the car will handle better with the upper rear arms spaced outwards a little.

Shocks are needed for both since Eibach springs are stiffer than stock springs.

BS. Prokits are hardly different from stock in terms of rate.

You can get away with Tokico HP Blues with eibach pros, but for sportlines you'll need adjustable shocks.

Adjustable is irrelevant. If you can find non-adjustable shocks with the right amounts of damping, then you're find.

- Jtoby

 

[DGajre777]

You need to be clear about front vs rear vs both being needed. Even with Prokits, the car will handle better with the upper rear arms spaced outwards a little.

I know of cars that have Prokits without any camber kits on them. I don't know of any car with sportlines without camber kits, that don't have any suspension problems. With the Eibach kit you'll get about -2 degrees camber. You can use washers for the rear to "make" your own camber kit. You can get away with camber kit for the front with the pro kit.

BS. Prokits are hardly different from stock in terms of rate.

Eibach Pro Kit Springs: We strongly recommend purchasing a quality shock absorber along with these springs. They are approximately 20% stiffer than stock. The purpose of the shock is to control the spring energy. Get more spring & you need more shock. If you are on a budget and can't afford both, get shocks only for better handling. If your only purpose is to get all the chicks & look cool with a lousy ride, get springs only.

What's BS? 20% is "hardly different"? You saying Road Race Engineering is wrong?

Adjustable is irrelevant. If you can find non-adjustable shocks with the right amounts of damping, then you're find.

Adjustable shocks stiffens up both compression and rebound damping and it is not irrelevant. Find me some non-adjustable shocks with damping for 1.7" - 1.8" drop.

Jtoby - I guess Mr. Wiseman, you should get a negative rep for providing misinformation too, huh?!

 

[jtmcinder]

Adjustable shocks stiffens up both compression and rebound damping and it is not irrelevant. Find me some non-adjustable shocks with damping for 1.7" - 1.8" drop.

Now you are making this worse.

As I wrote, adjustability is irrelevant. If you can find a non-adjustable shock with the right damping, then you are fine.

The new mistake that you are making is linking the issue of damping directly to the amout of drop. You do not match the damping of the shocks to the amount of drop; you match the damping to the rate of the springs. The aspect of the shocks that should be linked to the amount of drop is the length of the shock's body.

As to whether stock shocks can handle a slight increase in spring rate, I will agree to disagree. The RRE blurb is misleading in that the rears of a ProKit are the same rate as stock; only the fronts are stiffer.

Another correction: while it is true that most single-adjustable Japanese shocks change compression and rebound, others only change rebound (e.g., Konis). And guess which are better....

- Jtoby

 

[ILLiCliPSE]

So what do you think would be the best?? Im leaning towards the sportline since the drop is lower...I think they say 1.8 inch, which is nice. So now we have sportlines, and what kind of shocks?? adjustable or non-adjustable? What brand and how much?? The posts above got me somewhat confused

Thanks for the help....

 

[suicidal2af]

Negative camber isn't [necessarily] bad. Toe is bad. If you can get toe in-spec with all your fancy negative camber, tire wear will have minimal acceleration.

 

[suicidal2af]

I know of cars that have Prokits without any camber kits on them. I don't know of any car with sportlines without camber kits, that don't have any suspension problems. With the Eibach kit you'll get about -2 degrees camber. You can use washers for the rear to "make" your own camber kit. You can get away with camber kit for the front with the pro kit.


Eibach Pro Kit Springs: We strongly recommend purchasing a quality shock absorber along with these springs. They are approximately 20% stiffer than stock. The purpose of the shock is to control the spring energy. Get more spring & you need more shock. If you are on a budget and can't afford both, get shocks only for better handling. If your only purpose is to get all the chicks & look cool with a lousy ride, get springs only.

What's BS? 20% is "hardly different"? You saying Road Race Engineering is wrong?


Adjustable shocks stiffens up both compression and rebound damping and it is not irrelevant. Find me some non-adjustable shocks with damping for 1.7" - 1.8" drop.

Jtoby - I guess Mr. Wiseman, you should get a negative rep for providing misinformation too, huh?!

Shocks that stiffen both compression and rebound ARE irrelevant. Stiffer springs require less compression dampening and more rebound dampening. Adjusting both at the same time is just going to change how your ride bounces.

Despite the fact that he can be a prick to people trying to learn, jtoby is right more often than not. Until you're on his level, or you change your last name to moss or grant, arguing with him is an excercise in futility -- plus you'll spread some misinformation, and god knows there's enough of that to go around.

 

[DGajre777]

The new mistake that you are making is linking the issue of damping directly to the amout of drop. You do not match the damping of the shocks to the amount of drop; you match the damping to the rate of the springs. The aspect of the shocks that should be linked to the amount of drop is the length of the shock's body.

Interesting, this I did not know.

Despite the fact that he can be a prick to people trying to learn, jtoby is right more often than not. Until you're on his level, or you change your last name to moss or grant, arguing with him is an excercise in futility -- plus you'll spread some misinformation, and god knows there's enough of that to go around..

It is not about who is right or wrong. It is about what the correct information is. Arguing with jtoby was not my intention. It seems that I had some misinformation and didn't even know about it.

 

[jtmcinder]

Peace is cool.

Sorry about writing 'BS' when an argument can and has been made for the opposite idea.

- Jtoby

 

[DGajre777]

jtmcinder - Peace is cool

The RRE blurb is misleading in that the rears of a ProKit are the same rate as stock; only the fronts are stiffer.

Doesn't this mean that someone with the 2G Eibach Pro kit can use stock shocks on the rear? and just get stiffer shocks in the front?

 

[jtmcinder]

I suppose so, but I wouldn't, because the stock shocks are underdamped all around.

I've driven 2Gs with Prokits and near-stock shocks (GR2s). I've also driven a 2G with stock springs and Koni Yellows (my own a few years ago). I agree with the main point of that RRE blurb: the latter was much better in terms of handling. Nothing compares to cranked up rebound.

I know people hate this suggestion, but if you only have X dollars, I'd get Koni Yellows and cut one coil off all of your stock springs. The latter not only lowers the car about an inch, but also raises the front *and rear* spring rates by a bit over 10%. Luckily, the short bodies on a Koni Yellow give you more travel, so banging the bumpstops isn't automatically an issue. Plus, you have nothing to sell on eBay when you decide to stop messing around and get some "real" springs.

- Jtoby