need help changing rotors and wheel studs for Talon TSI

[EclipseGSX012]

Hey how you guys doing. I bought a set of wheels for my car and i found out that my rear passenger side wheel studs got rusted and chipped off. So I decide to put the Brembo stock size rotors and change the wheel studs at the same time. So i finally got the calipers and support mounting bolts. But i cant get the rotors off my damn car because it is so rusted. Also the CHILTON book said i need 2 bolts to get the rotors off. What size bolt and do i need them to take them off? Also Do i need to remove a thing called SLIT on the rear?

Sorry if this doesnt make any sense if it doesnt please AIM me at kseungjun.

Thank you very much.

 

[EclipseGSX012]

also do i have to take off the lock nuts to change the wheel studs?

 

[zippy]

Don't know about the wheel studs, but the stuck rotor info. is at www.vfaq.com.

 

[Omega]

Wheel studs are easy (once you get the rotor off, I usually beat the crap out of if with a hammer after its' sat in PB blaster)

Pick a stud and look behind the hub. You will see as you rotate it, there is some clearance back there when it is in a certain position. When you find said position, whack the thread side with a hammer. It will pop out in a few hits or so. You will probably have to rotate the hub a little to get the studs out, no big deal. Installation is similar to the removal. Get some washers that fit over the threads of the stud (enough for 1.5" thickness or so) Put the stud in, making sure the splines line up. When you have them lined up, put about an 1" worth of washers on and spin a lugnut on. Tighten the lugnut until the back side of the stud is flush with the hub... add washers if needed. Repeat 4 more times. When they are all on (and flush) , assemble everything. Tighten the lugnuts to spec. RETORQUE THE LUGNUTS AFTER A SHORT DRIVE. They will have loosened up a little. Keep an eye on those studs for a few days, if you don't get them tight, they can work loose and fall out. I've seen it happen.

If you have snapped a stud off at the hub face, a pointed cold chisel (not a wood working chisel) will do the trick.

 

[EclipseGSX012]

Wheel studs are easy (once you get the rotor off, I usually beat the crap out of if with a hammer after its' sat in PB blaster)

Pick a stud and look behind the hub. You will see as you rotate it, there is some clearance back there when it is in a certain position. When you find said position, whack the thread side with a hammer. It will pop out in a few hits or so. You will probably have to rotate the hub a little to get the studs out, no big deal. Installation is similar to the removal. Get some washers that fit over the threads of the stud (enough for 1.5" thickness or so) Put the stud in, making sure the splines line up. When you have them lined up, put about an 1" worth of washers on and spin a lugnut on. Tighten the lugnut until the back side of the stud is flush with the hub... add washers if needed. Repeat 4 more times. When they are all on (and flush) , assemble everything. Tighten the lugnuts to spec. RETORQUE THE LUGNUTS AFTER A SHORT DRIVE. They will have loosened up a little. Keep an eye on those studs for a few days, if you don't get them tight, they can work loose and fall out. I've seen it happen.

If you have snapped a stud off at the hub face, a pointed cold chisel (not a wood working chisel) will do the trick.

ic ic thank you very much sound like you done this before . another question where could i get the washers?

 

[Omega]

Yeah, you could say that.

Home Depot or and hardware store will carry them. As long as the OD of the washer will fit around the stud, you will be fine.

 

[fulanititoo8198]

Just something to be careful with when your pulling the studs back in make sure your not messing up the thread. The washers can bend and start eating at it.

 

[EclipseGSX012]

Yeah, you could say that.

Home Depot or and hardware store will carry them. As long as the OD of the washer will fit around the stud, you will be fine.

Oh ic ic thanks alot. Lol its funny your from jersey also. not to far away from me.. maybe you could help if i get in trouble...

Just something to be careful with when your pulling the studs back in make sure your not messing up the thread. The washers can bend and start eating at it.

yeah i will be very careful. Thanks alot

 

[Omega]

I wouldn't have a problem helping you out. If need be, let me know.

I charge $30 an hour

Did you get them in yet?

 

[EclipseGSX012]

I wouldn't have a problem helping you out. If need be, let me know.

I charge $30 an hour

Did you get them in yet?

no not yet. Still looking for a place to get a caliper bolts. I got caliper carrier bolts but couldnt find caliper bolts.. I work monday to saturday 1130-9 until 10 on the weekend so body is tired so didnt get a chance to take the off yet. Im going to try it soon tho.

If i need help I'll pm you man..

Thanks alot tho

Edit...

I finally got the rotor off but there is no way in hell i could replace the wheel studs. There is no room to fit the wheel stud behind it. My friend told me that i need to take of the bolt. Not sure what its called but its in the middle of the rotor. Do i really really need to remove that? Also i have my ebrake off but its in gear but i saw on the article that i need to detach the ebrake line. its giving me headache..

So do i have to detach the ebrake line? also do i need to remove the bolt that is in the middle of the rotor??

Thank you

here is the picture of the bolt that i was talkin about..

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[jtmcinder]

You do not have to remove the castle nut or the hub to replace the studs with stock-length studs. In the rear, it's much easier if you remove one side of the parking brake, but even that might not be necessary (mine are already off).

You don't have to remove the hub to put in longer studs in the front. The rear is another story.

And if those are the original hubs on your 95 you should be darned glad you don't have to remove them, because they are probably not coming off easily.

- Jtoby

 

[EclipseGSX012]

You do not have to remove the castle nut or the hub to replace the studs with stock-length studs. In the rear, it's much easier if you remove one side of the parking brake, but even that might not be necessary (mine are already off).

You don't have to remove the hub to put in longer studs in the front. The rear is another story.

And if those are the original hubs on your 95 you should be darned glad you don't have to remove them, because they are probably not coming off easily.

- Jtoby

yeah im putting a stock length studs but there is no room for it to fit the studs. Hmm ill check it out i guess.. On the article they said i need to disconnect the ebrake line. Where is this ebrake line?

edit..
Its the rear by the way.. could you tell me the steps of how you take the wheel studs off please?

 

[jtmcinder]

2G rear stud replacement:

remove wheel
remove service brakes including bracket
remove rotor
remove the parking brake shoe that is closer to the front of the car (i.e., the one near where the service brake was)
bang out studs, first rotating the wheel so the stud to be banged out is where the service brake was
insert new stud (with hole in same location as above)
put lots of washers around the stud (with the bottom one being skinny so it's flat against the hub) and put grease or WD40 between the layers of washers
use a lug nut to pull the stud into place
put parking brake shoe back on
put rotor back on
put service brake back on
put wheel back on
drive the car 1/4 mile slowly
retorque lug nuts
drive a mile
retorque lug nuts

- Jtoby

 

[EclipseGSX012]

2G rear stud replacement:

remove wheel
remove service brakes including bracket
remove rotor
remove the parking brake shoe that is closer to the front of the car (i.e., the one near where the service brake was)
bang out studs, first rotating the wheel so the stud to be banged out is where the service brake was
insert new stud (with hole in same location as above)
put lots of washers around the stud (with the bottom one being skinny so it's flat against the hub) and put grease or WD40 between the layers of washers
use a lug nut to pull the stud into place
put parking brake shoe back on
put rotor back on
put service brake back on
put wheel back on
drive the car 1/4 mile slowly
retorque lug nuts
drive a mile
retorque lug nuts

- Jtoby

Thank you very much i will try that.

Also i think i have another problem... in this thread They explain gsx and tsi awd rear rotors are different sizes. I took my rotor off to put my new one on to see if there is size difference. If you go to the link there is a picture with slotted rotors that's what it look like when i put the brembo stock size on. So here is another question could i be able to fit the rotors and calipers back on? I didnt buy the caliper, it came with it when i bought the car.

Thank you

 

[jtmcinder]

A GSX is exactly the same thing as a TSi AWD, so I don't understand the question. Maybe you are mixing non-AWDs with AWDs, or maybe you are mixing early 95s with later AWDs.

- Jtoby

 

[arash15]

only difference between rear rotors are the early production 95's had vented rear rotors and later production 2g's didnt have vented rear rotors.

 

[EclipseGSX012]

A GSX is exactly the same thing as a TSi AWD, so I don't understand the question. Maybe you are mixing non-AWDs with AWDs, or maybe you are mixing early 95s with later AWDs.

- Jtoby

Yeah your right i have early 95 eagle talon tsi. But the thing is if you see the other thread the brembo rotors is smaller than the one i have on now which is vented. So i'm saying basically i have later awd rear rotors which i should have early awd rotors. So my question is can i put later awd rear rotors on my 95? i read other thread that it cant be done.

also i have the chilton book and i'm trying to get through the "remove the parking brake shoe that is closer to the front of the car (i.e., the one near where the service brake was)" part. What tools would i need? Sorry to bother you man, this is my first car and i'm trying to fix the wheel studs to work on my car and learn more about dsm. I dont know it's my first time trying and my friend was helping me but he cant come out at night due to going home late because he was trying to help me. So basically i have no clue but trying with the book and you guys help.

Thanks alot for your help

only difference between rear rotors are the early production 95's had vented rear rotors and later production 2g's didnt have vented rear rotors.

yeah your right i have early 2g.

 

[jtmcinder]

I wouldn't. If you can't return them, there is eBay. Get the right rotors. RRE sells early 95s in both normal and slotted.

- Jtoby

 

[Rx3]

IF you have an electric or air powered impact gun, it would make pulling those studs in 200x easier. Another thing, you could get a really big thick washer (with the correct hole size) and use that between your lugnut and the surface when using the wrench/impact tool.

 

[EclipseGSX012]

I wouldn't. If you can't return them, there is eBay. Get the right rotors. RRE sells early 95s in both normal and slotted.

- Jtoby

Yeah i didnt think so. i wonder if somebody will buy my rear brembo rotors...

IF you have an electric or air powered impact gun, it would make pulling those studs in 200x easier. Another thing, you could get a really big thick washer (with the correct hole size) and use that between your lugnut and the surface when using the wrench/impact tool.

I dont have money to afford those.. i wish i did, it would make thing lot easier... I guess that's is when i get money saved up after my motor swap.

 

[Rx3]

Power tools aren't as expensive as you think. You can get an electric impact wrench from Sears for ~$120, or even from Harbor Freight at half that price. And it will be a tool you use more than once, believe me.