| Handling Tech Suspension, steering, brakes, tires, lightweight wheels, bushings, etc. |
03-07-2007, 01:48 PM
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#31 (permalink)
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DSM Wiseman
From: Newmarket, Ontario, Canada
Region: Central Canada
Registered: Nov 2004
Posts: 3,652
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I believe people with custom big brake setups, such as my Wilwood setup are out of luck on a coated brake line as the Wilwood calipers use a different fitting compared to the stocker?
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03-07-2007, 01:57 PM
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#32 (permalink)
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DSM Wiseman
From: Newmarket, Ontario, Canada
Region: Central Canada
Registered: Nov 2004
Posts: 3,652
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cine135
I definately do notice a firmer brake feel and it's made me more confident gauging braking distances. I had to do a lot of extra work to prevent unusual twisting and dirt/dust from destroying the lines. If I knew they were this much work, I would have considered them more carefully. But overall I'm happy with what I have.
If anyone wants to know I'v uploaded all the pics and what I did here:
SS Brake Lines interfering and a strut has SLIPPED
Now that the fronts are all set, I've noticed the rear calipers are shot...
*sigh* Now I have to go get rear calipers, I'm just getting them without the bracket, with the old lines, I'm not going through this again...
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While I see what your trying to do with the rubber tubing & electrical tape, I think you may be making things worse. Your covering won't seal out the elements 100%, so my thought is your going to end up getting dirt & crap trapped between the hose & the outer layer & it will have noware to go. If you normally give your lines a good pressure wash to try & clean them out, this will no longer work. I think the only way is to have the hoses 100% sealed or don't try & seal them at all. Probably not a good idea to seal them after their used as you may just be trapping dirt thats already in there.
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03-07-2007, 03:19 PM
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#33 (permalink)
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Proven Member
From: Los Angeles, California
Region: SoCal
Registered: Feb 2005
Posts: 11
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I understand what you're saying.
But short of running out and buying premium (expensive) brake lines. These will have to do.
The point where grime can get it is at the holder where I didn't cover it.
As far as the elements getting trapped between electrical tape and vinyl tubing, thats fine with me as long as the brake lines are safe.
I'v learned that of the things I've worked on for my car, this has got to be the least pleasant. Brake fliud gets everywhere and it's a mess. I definately don't like changing brake lines...
If I get sealed ss brake lines then they might be cut to stock size, making them too long for this reroute. But at least oem brake line holders are cheap.
Either way I'm satisfied...
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03-07-2007, 04:15 PM
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#34 (permalink)
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Proven Member
From: M-Town, Michigan
Region: Midwest
Registered: Jun 2003
Posts: 1,018
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Quote:
Originally Posted by staticbrainwash
I like the idea of the heat shrink, but i imagine that would also degrade quite a bit after a while dealing with the elements. Now i imagine better than all the rubbing that happens with dirt in SSB line and blah blah, but i don't know. There has to be a solid way to coat these.
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Degrade? Maybe after 8-10 years. Heat shrink is and has been used in places of high abrasion on OEM applications. It works exremely well. As the stuff shrinks, the thickness of the material grows. If you are worried about the thickness you can get a piece that's 1/4 to 1/3 larger in diameter rather than one that just fits the tubing.
There are also different types of heat shrink. I'd bet that the MachV parts are done in heat shrink. It's just a different type. Not the typical stuff you think of that's black. The colored stuff is generally more expensive.
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03-07-2007, 05:14 PM
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#35 (permalink)
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Proven Member
From: Midland, Michigan
Region: Midwest
Registered: Oct 2004
Posts: 1,623
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If thats the case sign me up for some heatshrink! I just assumed it'd fall apart. All of the shit i've seen used lately has been really cheap. Maybe i'm just getting the wrong stuff. Who knows?
You're probably also right about the machv lines. If it is just heatshrink then the extra 80-90 bucks is insane.
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Geoff - 14b AT tsi awd
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03-07-2007, 05:31 PM
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#36 (permalink)
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Proven Member
From: Vancouver, Washington
Region: Pacific Northwest
Registered: Jul 2006
Posts: 1,493
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Until I read this thread I was not aware of these potential issues with the SS lines. I have had the Goodridge lines since 2001 without any problems. Is anyone aware of any signs to look for that this process is indeed taking place or something that may suggest an impending failure of the lines? I wonder if flexing the lines by hand will reveal noticeable laxity or decreased resistance to bending compared to a new line of the same brand?
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03-07-2007, 05:38 PM
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#37 (permalink)
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Proven Member
From: Worcester, Massachusetts
Region: New England
Registered: Sep 2004
Posts: 2,285
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Quote:
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Originally Posted by romeen
Until I read this thread I was not aware of these potential issues with the SS lines. I have had the Goodridge lines since 2001 without any problems. Is anyone aware of any signs to look for that this process is indeed taking place or something that may suggest an impending failure of the lines? I wonder if flexing the lines by hand will reveal noticeable laxity or decreased resistance to bending compared to a new line of the same brand?
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I wonder if a brake pressure gauge would aid in diagnosing potential leaks/problems.
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-Anthony-
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03-07-2007, 06:05 PM
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#38 (permalink)
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Proven Member
From: Vancouver, Washington
Region: Pacific Northwest
Registered: Jul 2006
Posts: 1,493
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DSMunknown
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I would think that the SS outer layer would keep a weakened inner layer from expanding under pressure thereby making pressure readings unreliable for diagnosing a pending failure. But that's just speculation.
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03-07-2007, 07:18 PM
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#39 (permalink)
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Proven Member
From: Toledo, Ohio
Region: Midwest
Registered: Aug 2002
Posts: 1,143
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My experience with brake line failures so far (not on my cars, but others) is that they usually get a pinhole leak first, JUST enough to let some fluid squeeze by under pressure, but not so much that you lose the brakes. So if you're paying attention you may spot a little brake fluid on the line, or notice a slight mushiness before the coming sudden, total failure...
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03-07-2007, 07:54 PM
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#40 (permalink)
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Proven Member
From: Southern, Wisconsin
Region: Midwest
Registered: Jun 2002
Posts: 668
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Check MSC for heat shrink, they have thin, thick wall, with sealant inside, and different colors. Thomas & Betts makes a real good heavy wall heat shrink but it is expensive.
http://www1.mscdirect.com/CGI/NNPDFF...1744&PMCTLG=00
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03-09-2007, 11:50 AM
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#41 (permalink)
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Proven Member
From: San Francisco, California
Region: NorCal
Registered: Jun 2004
Posts: 54
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I should have taken pictures of the lines before I sent them in. I'm going to go for a set of techna-fit lines next probally. Hopefully it'll hold up better than the goodridge set. As far as the issue of staying OEM or going SS, I personally would go SS. I've only run OEM pads and rotors with them and they helped improve brake feel which I like because it responds with less effort on the pedal. Can't wait to get the new ones in and try them with my brembo blanks and axxis ultimate setup.
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03-09-2007, 11:54 AM
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#42 (permalink)
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Proven Member
From: San Francisco, California
Region: NorCal
Registered: Jun 2004
Posts: 54
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 1LE
My experience with brake line failures so far (not on my cars, but others) is that they usually get a pinhole leak first, JUST enough to let some fluid squeeze by under pressure, but not so much that you lose the brakes. So if you're paying attention you may spot a little brake fluid on the line, or notice a slight mushiness before the coming sudden, total failure...
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1LE is right about the failure, on the set that failed on me, the hole that formed was not very big. It was about the same size as a hole that would would make if you shoved the tip of a ball point pen into a piece of paper. That and the actual braid broke and you could see it start to unravel, its easy to look over unless you're really paying attention to detail
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