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Name that boot!

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2GeNTSi

20+ Year Contributor
1,261
6
Mar 1, 2003
South Sac, California
Hey I was wondering if you guys know what boot this is, it has been like this for a while but haven't really notice anything awkward while it being like this. This is a pic of the passenger side, the drivers side you can see all this grease coming out from it.
 

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Yes, you can replace just a steering ball-joint boot, without replacing the whole tie-rod. However, depending on how long the boots have been leaking and, therefore, how much grease has leaked out and, more importantly, how much crap has gotten inside, you might want to replace the ball-joints, too.

- Jtoby
 
ugh only going to have about 70 bucks left, I just got paid on Fri, ordered my downpipe and now I need to get an alignment cause I just installed my springs and shocks about a week ago.
 
FYI....Ball joints are not 30 bucks...ball joints are expensive as hell lucky for us dsmtuners...its underrecall go to local dealer n tell them u want them replaced cus there damaged and underrecall....tie rods are not cheap either...i got tie rods/lower control arm...and ball joints (under recall) replaced for 390parts and labor included...
 
all of it under recall? I already got the ball joints replaced. I called Chrysler today and the boots are $10.50 each, the and tie rods are about $49 each.
 
just ball joints are under recall alls i kno is i payed like 390 for installation of control arms n tie rods...ball joints free but they should be ur first priority if u kno what the bad sides of u messin up ball joints even worse....get that done b4 u get in a wreck...trust me on that one..good luck
 
Originally posted by EclipseGST-95
just ball joints are under recall alls i kno is i payed like 390 for installation of control arms n tie rods...ball joints free but they should be ur first priority if u kno what the bad sides of u messin up ball joints even worse....get that done b4 u get in a wreck...trust me on that one..good luck

That ball joint that was shown in the initial picture is NOT covered under a recall. There is only two ball joints that are covered under the recall on the 2g's. One is on the left lower lateral arm and the other is on the right. The Lateral arm is the lower control arm that is straight.
Check out this thread for what is actually covered under that recall.
http://dsmtuners.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=72071


The ball joint shown above is an outer tie rod end. It attatches to the power steering rack and the knuckle. It's replacement is relatively easy to do but an alignment should be performed afterwards to make sure the toe has not changed or is corrected if it has. It's about $38.00 from the dealership and is probably even cheaper at a parts store.
Doug
 
20 bux at pep boys
i had to replace mine 2 weeks ago, to pass inspection.


lower ball joints i think u have to replace the whole arm. but not tie rod ends.
 
Yeah I got my lower ball joints replaced about two months ago, my friend had it done to his car as well because his failed on him while driving. His axle then broke off and then hsi wheels were on their side like the Delorean in Back to the Future. Anyways Chrysler replaced the axles and ball joints all for free.

But anyways was it 20 bucks for the tie rod ends or the boots?
 
Ok I just got an alignment and my front camber is out of spec, I've just put on my rear camber kit so everything back there is fine including the toe. I'm going to be purchasing the camber kit from RRE on Friday. It should then get here by around next Wednesday if earlier. I already bought the tie-rod ends and I want to install it along with the front camber kit.

I was looking at the Haynes manual and it says something about marking the position of the tie-rod end to the threads? I didn't understand that part but everything else seems simple enough. The thing I noticed though is that the tie-rod on my car is mounted on top of steering knuckle and in the pictures in the manual, it is mounted below. This probably doesn't matter but I just noticed that.
 
It does matter where the tie rod end goes. You need to put it back the way you found it. Also, the haynes manual worded it like that so that you put the tie rod end back as close as you can. This method is a temporary repair and it should be aligned after you remove the tie rod end.
 
Originally posted by DSMbish90
20 bux at pep boys
i had to replace mine 2 weeks ago, to pass inspection.


lower ball joints i think u have to replace the whole arm. but not tie rod ends.


correct, the lower lateral control arm is right below the circle in pic. that is under recall and there $240 each L+R from dealer. and no you cannot just buy the bushings. I ended up paying about $600 and then finding out about recall after.

However the energy suspension master bushing kit supposedluy comes with those bushings. Worth looking into. It come with alot os sh^t. and the lower control arm bushings too. $150 and a PITA to install. If you opt to get these bushings get the black ones they got some crazy graphite something in them to make them better than the red ones.
 
Originally posted by Doug99RS
It does matter where the tie rod end goes. You need to put it back the way you found it. Also, the haynes manual worded it like that so that you put the tie rod end back as close as you can. This method is a temporary repair and it should be aligned after you remove the tie rod end.

So I should keep the tie rod mounted above the steering knuckle instead of below it? The pic in the manual has the tie-rod below the knuckle. Can you elaborate on your last two sentences Doug, I didn't understand what it was talking about when marking the position of the tie-rod.
 
The outer tie rod end should go back in the same way it is in this picture below. No questions asked. If your chilton's manual says otherwise... throw the book in the trash. I can show you multiple vehicles where that same are is installed in the same position yours is right now. No questions asked on that.

On the threads and all. Basically this is the way the tie rod end works. Looking at this picture below:

You've circled the ball joint section of the outer tie rod end. I've added a blue section which is part of the inner tie rod end, red lines indicating threads on the inner tie rod end. A solid red section which indicates the "Jam Nut" which is simply a nut on the threaded part, and then the yellow square and yellow squigly crap represents the outer tie rod end.

What happens when a repair shop aligns the front end is they put a wrench on the yellow part and another wrench on the red jam nut. They turn them in opposite directions and this breaks loose the jam nut. Then they put a wrench on the blue section and turn it clockwise or counter-clockwise. What this does is move the inner tie rod in or out. This changes the toe of the vehicle. They then tighten the the jam nut back up.

So... the reason why you need to count the threads is so that you put the outer tie rod end back on to the inner tie rod end at the same spot. If you don't count threads then you will change the toe drastically.

The reason why I say you should count threads as only a temporary fix is because while you did count threads and the yellow part of the outer tie rod end is in the same position... you don't know if there was a change in the design of the rest of the outer tie rod end. It could have been made 1,2,3 or 4 mm's shorter or longer. That's really not alot when you look at a ruler but when it comes to the alignment of a vehicle it really makes a big difference.
Doug
 

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