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Fast1ggst

Proven Member
32
0
Feb 8, 2013
Mesquite, Texas
On what fuel pump and injectors to run on my car have idle issue fixed a boost issue fixed but still have fuel cut so I want to now what to run on my car along with wide band and ECM upgrades as well as turbo timer:confused:

Also wanting to meet with some dsmers so you could give me a second opinion on the issue
 
As far as injectors go, as long as you're not using a SAFC you can pretty much go as big as you want with a complete solution like ECMlink. I've used PTE injectors in the past, they were OK. After I get done with my build, I'll be using FIC injectors that seem to be a popular choice. As far as fuel pumps go, a Walbro 255 is enough to keep any daily driven DSM satisfied provided you have the fuel pump relay mod done.
1G FWD Pump Install
Concerning the fuel pump relay mod I can't stress enough to make sure there's a fuse in there. Not so funny story about the night before I went to Arroyo Seco....
FWD Pump Rewire
Secondly, I'm not a fan of turbo timers. It's something that's a convenience thing to me. Taking that money and putting it towards something else would make the sitting in the car of a minute or two bearable. Besides, it's a DSM you should have got there quickly anyways.
 
If your running coolant lines on your 16g than a turbo timer is a waste of money.

In your mods list it says you have a data logger. Have you logged your injector duty to see if your maxing out your injectors and thats the reason for your fuel cut?
It could also be due to your hacked maf. If the honey comb is removed, you may want to look in replacing the maf. The honey comb is there so the maf can accurately meter the air flow. You can log your maf hz and see whats going on with it when your fuel cut issue happens.

If you go with an upgraded fuel pump your going to have to get an adjustable fuel pressure regulator. A walbro 255 will over flow the stock one and cause you to run rich.

Aem uego or Innovative mtx wideband. If your going to be running link it would probably be better to get the mtx since link does not like the uego very much. The wideband Should be at the top of the list of things you get. Besides tuning, it also comes in hand for trying to figure out issues the car is having.
 
Yea my injectors are maxed and I'm looking into doin the gm maf

You got some good info from both Jim and Matt.

To run larger injectors you need something to tune with (in addition to something to log with). You mentioned a GM MAF, which will require a MAF Translator. With that I believe you can use 560 cc injectors ok (stock on an Evo). You can also get a piggyback like a SAFC and run up to 650cc injectors (DSM stock are 450), or you can pay a little bit more for ECMtuning V3 Lite and run any injector you want as well as have a complete tuning system. Plus with V3 both Jim and I use it so if you need help dialing it in or getting it set up we are right here.

Keep in mind that in order to run injectors you will have to have a larger fuel pump. You can get a Walbro 190 by itself or a Walbro 255 AND an adjustable fuel pressure regulator to keep from over flowing the system at idle and cruise. Depending on your goals I would recommend the 190 since you won't also have to buy a regulator.

You probably will be overrunning your MAF once you get your fuel issue straight. Although like Matt mentioned it could just be hacked and negatively effecting your performance. You can look into a 2g MAF, GM MAF, or Speed Density (if using v3).

I agree with both on the turbo timer. Spend the money to get your car running right for now. I have a turbo timer on my evo only because it was already there when I bought it. It's fun to get weird looks in parking lots when you lock the doors and the car is still running. However its not needed and at this point should be the last thing on your mind.
 
Ok thanks for the info and were is the best place to get the fuel system setup from and the stock maf was hacked by previous owner so not for sure if it was done right or what and I also need help doing a true boost leak test to make sure there is no leaks left
 
Yeah, Nate is pretty spot on with SD, I simply prefer to use a MAF sensor. With Link either setup is simply a cable that you attach to your current MAP receptacle.
With the boost leak tester, I literally bought all the stuff from Lowe's except the valve stem. If you get the stuff, depending on how fancy you want to go with it, we could be done with it in an afternoon easy. If you have an aftermarket boost gauge...
Maybe it's just me but I still gotta stand by my Walbro 255. Sure you'd need the AFPR, however you could adjust the base fuel pressure to values that the rest of the civilized work uses and get the full face value out of the injectors. Most would say it's not significant, but when you get to like 1200cc's it's almost a full 100cc difference.
 
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