ECMlink 2G DSMLink V3. Hard cold start help!

[Fast95GSX]

I've been having this problem for a while now and it is driving me nuts. It takes a while of cranking most of the time to fire it up. In the log provided it looks like the Keystart value goes up and down and I am not getting any fuel when this happens. It does start right up however when it's hot.

What would I check? Thanks.

 

[c2ypt1c]

Why is the non-95/96 cam sensor selected? And is there a reason you're clamping the idle air?

Can you post a warm idle log?

Also, you can add/subtract fuel with the CoolantTempFuelAdj in direct access. Might want to mess around with it...

 

[Fast95GSX]

Why is the non-95/96 cam sensor selected? And is there a reason you're clamping the idle air?

I have a 1g cas and I have an automatic.
Here is a warm idle log and I haven't tried the CoolantTempFuelAdj yet...

Here is another cold start log from a more recent date.

 

[c2ypt1c]

I have an automatic.

Idle air clamping is for stalling/bogging issues related to airflow, not your transmission (EDIT: Although, in general, manual trannys will need the idle air clamp function more so than autos). You can read up on it here: idleair [ECMTuning - wiki]

Have you tried cold starting without the idle air clamp?

On a side note, you're running lean at warm idle, in closed loop. Are you sure your wideband is configured properly? Front o2 voltage looks a little low

Anyway, I'd say the CoolantTempFuelAdj is your best bet...

 

[gofer]

Put your InjBatterAdj table to stock. Use the CoolantTempFuelAdj to add fuel to your cold start, just increase every slider by 10% over stock from the 19* temp slider to the 70* temp slider and move the 95* slider 7% and try starting it. You can induce cranking fuel cut with Link installed with the gas pedal all the way to the floor so, by moving these sliders and pumping the pedal to the floor fixed my E85 cold starts.

...I'm 99% sure your WB isn't logging accurately. You may read thru our sites tech articles and find the LinearWB calibration videos so you can get your UEGO to log accurately in Link.

 

[Fast95GSX]

I will try the suggestions tomorrow and report back. I also have an older Aem wideband that only reads 11-17 Afr so its a pain to try to get it to match up. So you don't think the keystart value in the log when cranking is an issue then?

 

[Fast95GSX]

Put your InjBatterAdj table to stock. Use the CoolantTempFuelAdj to add fuel to your cold start, just increase every slider by 10% over stock from the 19* temp slider to the 70* temp slider and move the 95* slider 7% and try starting.

I set the adjustments like you said and it seemed to help, thanks Gofer. My logged wideband matches my gauge so i'm pretty sure it's configured correctly.

 

[CiscoBite1Time]

I'm having the same issue upon cold start up. Did it make a difference for you if you adjusted the BISS screw and or applied gas via the gas pedal? Mine would start if I would helped but I'm looking to use link to get me to not help at cold start ups. I'll have to follow gopher's advice when I get the chance.

Post an after fix log if you can.

Thanks!

 

[c2ypt1c]

Just wanted to let you guys know, a recent update (v3.26.90 (02/28/2013)) added some additional functionality from within DA called CrankingFuelAdj:
v3changelog [ECMTuning - wiki]

Might want to give that a try as well.

 

[KFred 513]

Fast 95, when you say hard starting, what exactly do you mean. I have a Q45 throttle body and when I start my car it will stall until the temps reach about 100*.

Is your issue just a longer crank time? If your issue was stalling until the car was up to temp, did the coolanttempfueladjust fix your problem? I've seen the ISC adjust based on fuel temp, but that won't help me with my Q45.

Gofer, why would you want fuel cut on a cold start with E85? Does it run too rich while your cranking? Is link automatically programmed to do this, or is it a setting? I don't think it will help my situation, but I'm curious.

Thanks for any info

 

[gofer]

Getting my car to start in the cold has been a PITA and cold in San Diego was mid 40's at worst, which isn't really that cold. I was to the point I'd try anything so I made major adjustments to the CoolantTempFuelAdj table, injecting as much fuel into the cylinders as I could when coolant temps were below 70*. Even then, I'd have to crank the car over 3-4 times for 10 seconds before it would even start acting like it was trying to start. I tried pumping the pedal, enabling cranking fuel cut, and it started right up after just one crank and to be honest I couldn't believe it.

To cold start E85 you need to inject more in the cylinder because it has a higher vapor pressure and doesn't atomize as easily as gas but, at the same time, you need air and spark for the combustion process to happen. By pumping the pedal you're completely cutting fuel off for a split second (I pump it pretty fast) and then introducing a bigger squirt of fuel at the same time. I also use a two step colder spark plug (BR8ES) which also contributes to the cold start issues...

Try pumping the gas pedal while you're cranking the car next time, you maybe pleasantly surprised how much faster it starts.

 

[MY1GDSM]

You still had issues with cold start? Though that one time we sorted that out?

 

[gofer]

The issues you and I sorted out Stacey weren't for the initial cranking cold start, they were to keep it idling so I could drive it before it was at 180* op. temp. Remember, you showed me the trick of locking it in OL below 2k RPM so the front o2 swinging didn't kill it?

 

[KFred 513]

Ah thanks. It seems that our issues are different though. My car doesn't crank for a long time. It will fire right up, but then stall if I don't keep my foot on the throttle until it reaches ~100* coolant temp.

In another thread, the "$10 idle up diaphragm" I spoke with my1Gdsm about using an electric switched solenoid to act as an ISC valve and bypass the throttle plate in the throttle body. The extra air would bring my idle up without keeping my right foot occupied . Now I'm wondering if I can just add fuel on the coolant temp sliders.

 

[MY1GDSM]

Ahhh, Yes I remember corey... Though I did a couple other things as well at the time to help out though it Might just not have been as cold out yet... . Btw

 

[CiscoBite1Time]

Ah thanks. It seems that our issues are different though. My car doesn't crank for a long time. It will fire right up, but then stall if I don't keep my foot on the throttle until it reaches ~100* coolant temp.

In another thread, the "$10 idle up diaphragm" I spoke with my1Gdsm about using an electric switched solenoid to act as an ISC valve and bypass the throttle plate in the throttle body. The extra air would bring my idle up without keeping my right foot occupied . Now I'm wondering if I can just add fuel on the coolant temp sliders.

I think you and I have the same issue. If I adjust the BISS screw (basically backing it out) I can start the car, it will idle but it will sit at about 1.5K RPM. If I don't adjust the BISS screw I have feather my gas pedal for roughly 5-10 seconds before the idle will stay.

I'll have to mess with the coolant temp adj like gopher suggested above.

 

[gofer]

Installing a solenoid that induces more air to the engine while it's cold will effectively increase your idle speed, this is what the FIAV does but when you eliminate it that's when you typically have to feather the gas to keep the car running until >100* coolant temps. Using the CoolantTempFuelAdj won't help the idle speed, odds are your engine will flood and have a harder time staying on.

Rather than messing with wiring in a solenoid you can install a OE solenoid that opens and closes based on coolant temps. They came stock on 1g's and cost $32 to buy new from the dealership, P/N:MD103867. You drill/weld a bung for it in your t-stat housing and anything below 140*F the solenoid will remain open, bringing more air into the motor to increase idle speed.

Here's a photo of it installed. If you've got ECMLink forum access you should be able to see it.

You must be logged in to view this image or video.

 

[gofer]

Installing a solenoid that induces more air to the engine while it's cold will effectively increase your idle speed, this is what the FIAV does but when you eliminate it that's when you typically have to feather the gas to keep the car running until >100* coolant temps. Using the CoolantTempFuelAdj won't help the idle speed, odds are your engine will flood and have a harder time staying on.

Rather than messing with wiring in a solenoid you can install a OE solenoid that opens and closes based on coolant temps. They came stock on 1g's and cost $32 to buy new from the dealership, P/N:MD103867. You drill/weld a bung for it in your t-stat housing and anything below 140*F the solenoid will remain open, bringing more air into the motor to increase idle speed.

Here's a photo of it installed. If you've got ECMLink forum access you should be able to see it.

You must be logged in to view this image or video.

 

[CiscoBite1Time]

thanks for the help and picture gopher!

 

[KFred 513]

Installing a solenoid that induces more air to the engine while it's cold will effectively increase your idle speed, this is what the FIAV does but when you eliminate it that's when you typically have to feather the gas to keep the car running until >100* coolant temps. Using the CoolantTempFuelAdj won't help the idle speed, odds are your engine will flood and have a harder time staying on.

Rather than messing with wiring in a solenoid you can install a OE solenoid that opens and closes based on coolant temps. They came stock on 1g's and cost $32 to buy new from the dealership, P/N:MD103867. You drill/weld a bung for it in your t-stat housing and anything below 140*F the solenoid will remain open, bringing more air into the motor to increase idle speed.

Here's a photo of it installed. If you've got ECMLink forum access you should be able to see it.

You must be logged in to view this image or video.

Thanks for clarifying on the coolantTempFuelAdjust. That coolant based solenoid seems like a good idea, and I've never seen it mentioned before. Unfortunately I don't have access to link forums yet. I need to get home to get the serial number for ECM link to get access which will be next week

I had a solenoid shipped home already, and I plan to wire it into my stock A/C switch. If I get sick of the switch i may try out the coolant dependent solenoid. Thanks again for the info