27psi + E85 + H1-3558x = 482hp/429tq

[turboglenn]

EDIT: In case no one knows what an H1-3558x is, tat's the name i gave my custom built version of an hx35/40 hybrid based on an H1e center section i'msure people are reading it and saying "???"


This pull was at 27psi in 3rd gear and about 15* peak timing or so with AFR"s ranging inthe 11.7 to 12.1:1 range (actually from the log i see i can make a bit more power yet at the same boost levels) Temperatures outside were 79* and the umidty was HIGH as hell, and I'm at ~1050 elevation above sea level

details
Holset hybrid hx40 8blade 58mm/hx35 turbine in .63a/r T3 turbine housing
Haltech E6X ECU
J&S safeguard knock monitoring system
bosch 1600cc blue top injectors
ONE wally 255HP (haven't gotten the dual setup back in since the AWD swap)
ACT2600 w/ RPS ful face disk
Greedy FMIC from supra "kit"
2.5" IC pipes
3" turbo-back exhaust
38mm tial externally dumped
complete interior, spare tire, ~80lbs tools, sub box 1 x 12" kicker+amp, n20 bottle, a.k.a lotsa junk weight in the car

The weight of my car is roughly 3450 with stereo, tools and everything else i have in the car like spare tire, alky system with full tank (not used even) and the nitrouse bottle that's empty till back there too .. and i'm weighing in at a hefty 195lbs, so all information is correct..

Also, the log from the pull is attached at the bottom in .csv format and opens in Excel, in there you'll see that from 6500RPM and up i was only at around 89% TPS (not sure why i was lifting either) Real AFR and MAP in PSI (converted from KPA) are on the right hand colums marked with "#value"

LEt me know what you think... I really am pleased with the results and gains since my 57trim-30psi-e85 results on the mustang dyno back when i made the 438/396. ew i was making more power aand felt damn near the 500whp mark a for a while now, it's nice having something to back it up with and to compare.. I made a few back to back pulls and the best pull of the evening netted 486hp and still 429 torque but there was no compensation factored in for the air temps, so i chose to display th lower number of the 2 pulls atthis boost level (27-28psi average on datalog was 27'ish PS).. There's a good boost in power from 27psi to 30-31psi, so once i'm a little more solid on cash after some work and selling a motorcycle this week i may up the ante, turn the boost up to 30 (maybe a tad more) and make a few more pulls in aiming for the 500whp club (i know it's there for damn sure, i just need to get the proof posted up )

EDIT: attached a better graph from the same session, this one's got AFR and Boost graphed as well.

 

[mebetter]

Excellent numbers you're nearly in the 500hp club! I'm curious how much impact the hx40 compressor has to improve your numbers over a hx35 wheel. Also have you tried running a stock 1g intake to see the hp and torque difference?

 

[turboglenn]

Excellent numbers you're nearly in the 500hp club! I'm curious how much impact the hx40 compressor has to improve your numbers over a hx35 wheel. Also have you tried running a stock 1g intake to see the hp and torque difference?

Thanks, i'm quite proud of those numbers honestly (hard earned i can say that ) I can't wait for another chance when the air is good (meaning not90+* and high humidity) I wanna do a few more pulls, but next time i'm gonna start with the boost set at around 30-32psi (32 is where my MAP sensor is maxed out as well as my boost gauge)

EDIT: I think i finally got what you meant abhout the hx40 wheel, I would say it's probably doing a good bit of improvement ovr what a 35 would (but it would have to be tested back to back on the same car to really know) edit & retraction of statement! actually i'm gonna have to eat my words on that one, i did some searching and it seems most hx35's in this range of HP (and yes even 8 blade ones) are all doing about the same power at the same PSI and similar mods-list on the build... I guess at this point i'm hoping for either cooler air at the same PR or hoping that the overall peak amount of airflow is higer.. I mean the wheels are pretty different in size the hx35 8-blade being like 56 inducer and 78mm exducers, and the hx40 8-blade being at 58mm ind & 84mm exd. I mean hell there has to be some advantage to one or the other and a difference in the sizes and family of comp wheels ... i am now baffled to be honest and want to know the REAL difference in their potentials/performance from an hx35 and hx40 8-blade comp wheels respectively, should anyone know please school me on this one!@!!

check this post here..the quoted last paragraph 486hp/420tq at 28psi (i'm making 482/429 @ 27-28psi) and they show a climb to over 500hp by 30psi which i can only hope for at this point with high expectations and a huge grin
http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/dyno-talk/375811-508hp-455tq-hx35-dyno-3.html#post152867934

I ran a 1g manifold for years andonly recently changed to the cyclone and although i haven't had them to compare on paper like this, i can tell you from the changes i had to make to the tne to maintane AFR, that this manifold flows only slightly less than the regular 1g up top, but the flow and gains made in the mid-range, off boost driving and in spoool are well worth the trade off for DD duties



edit: My thoughts and ramblings on the cyclone manifold
On the graph you can see the opening of the 2nd runners,in the torque curve at the 4400 RPM spot.. THat's where the cyclone manifold is set to open on my car and if you zoom in you can see that torque starts to decline in how steeply i'ts rising,then when the extra runnrs open up the curve makes a change and starts to climb more rapidly again (very interesting to me, and looks like it was a good time to open them based on the curve's behaviour) The more i look at it the more i see that boost, hp, and torque are all notably effected by the runners opening at 4400rpm.. strange how boost seems to even ramp up faster at that point... very odd indeeed, I have played with openign RPM's quite a bit and this was the smoothest RPM where it would transition and not have any feeling of the car being held back or anything at any throttle oenings. When the opening point was set higher it almost felt like the timing was retarding or the brakes were draggig for a second before the runners' opened. It was as if i'd found their limit of making an improvement to the curve and where they became a flow restriction in the way the engine wantd to "climb" in RPM... Opening them at any lower RPM and there wasn't as nice of an increase in spool and not quite as nice of a smooth torquey pull into the 5k rpm range (just felt more like a stock 1g maifold and the transition wasn't really felt at all, nor were any real gains)... The best setting seemed to be the least noticeable as far as "feeling" any difference was concerned. I definitely love this manifold and won't go back to a plain 1g setup unless i'm forced to for some odd reason. The improvement in overall drivability around town and getting out up onto the interstate without needing a downshift or much throttle input is what you really come to notice and apreciate about this manifold over time.. ITs' almost as if you don't feel much the first day but as you drive it more you begin to notice that at all the part throttle openings and acceleration levels the car behaves completely different (almost te same as noticing the LSD in a high powered FWD trans, sure they lock up, but it's the little things about driving that really change to the point where you feeel you have to learn a few things over again )

next plans are to lean out the AFR"s into the 12.2-12.5 range through out and then up the boost a little and if everything still looks good start adding a little timing this week.. I feel like i have to break 500 now becuse so many other's have on the same andsimilar turbo's/engne combos, also, being so close already it shuoldn't take much more than a stroke of good luck really

 

[turboglenn]

Damn, tough crown in here figured in 2 days there would have been more than one post in here..

ANyway. today was WAY too hot to go out and make any pulls but tomorrow evening is supposed to cool off a good bit so i'm gonna see if i can make some pulls at ~30psi or so and maybe retard the midrange timing a little and run it on the rich end, which should make much better torque, then ramp up the advance around 6500RPM as well as leaning the mixture a little to the 12.5:1 range and see if i can make good gainsin both areas

From everything i know about fuels and what i've read about Ethanol's burning rates lately (found some good SAE papers on maximum use of ethanol fuel based on burn rates at variouse mixtures.. the rish and low timing in the mid-range SHOULD provide a better enviroment to completely burn allthe oxygen, but then being that the leaner the mixture the harder/longer it takes to light but will burn fast once the flame front propgates, and going by those guidelines i should be able to make somegood advancements over where i'm at right now.. I"m gonna makethe changes at all boost levels from where i'm currently at and above. I'll then see if the same boost makes many gains or not and if the improvements are shopwn i'll then crank it up to ~30-31psi and see how far over 500whp I can get,

WEll, if anyone is reading this and are interested in the SAE paperit's saved on my desktop and i'd be glad to send it to you

 

[streetillEagle]

Good insight and good tech info. Good to read about your setup and should make people respect getting HIGH hp from our cars. Hard earned numbers you have there. Hope you get more than 500 and get to 600 hp soon. I'd like to see How many changes you'll have to do. Bigger injectors,fuel pump, icp etc.

 

[Chicken Patty]

Very nice #'s man! ...and about the dual pumps, it was a bi*** to get my dual pumps to fit in the stock location and have everything work. But do it man, time to let her rip!

Good job!

 

[BrokenTsi]

Glen, do you think you can make more power on timing? 15* seems a little low to me. Have you found that your car does not like any more timing?

 

[skatershawn]

I'm impressed to see the single wally is holding up to the task! How much more do you think you can squeeze out of it safely? Is it at least rewired?

This only proves more that I made a smart investment for my goals!

 

[Bo0sTdTsI]

Damn, i learn something new everyday. Awesome description, i like all the details you put behind that, was able to picture that real good. Great info and congrats on the numbers Glenn, im ways away from making those numbers anytime soon.

 

[gofer]

Great numbers Glenn, sorry it took so long to respond but I didn't see your post until now.

A few things about the tune that you may try to put down more power. Drew already mentioned peak timing advance being low, which I agree with, too. I don't run much more myself (17* peak), however, were you able to verify on the dyno you weren't seeing any power gains by advancing it more? Also, your AFR's during spool up are fat and timing advance is, again, pretty conservative and if tweaked in the right direction would spin up the turbo sooner.

I'm a ECMLink DSMer so correct me if I'm wrong, but, from what I can tell you go WOT at 2.8k and hit full boost around 5.1k but your timing advance is dipping to 13* at 4.2k and then jumps to 14-15* as you hit peak torque and hangs there through the rest of the RPM band. If it were me I'd advance timing during spool up, dip it at 5.1k (peak torque) and then advance it back to 17-18* peak by 7k if you want to keep it conservative or you car stops making power.

Same goes for those AFR's during spool up, if you lean spool the car will pull harder and spin up the turbo faster. Right now your AFR's during spool up are fat, you're hitting your target WOT AFR (11.9 ~ 12.1:1) by 4k but your turbo isn't hitting full boost until 5.1k. See what it does leaning it out during spool up and try to hit your target AFR's around 4.8k!

In a nutshell, you're at 12:1 AFR by 4k but aren't seeing full boost until roughly 5k and your timing dips during spool up and then advances 2* by redline.

Either way, if you keep the tune as is, the car is pulling hard as hell. How did airflow look?

 

[Chicken Patty]

Glenn, have you thought about making some more power with timing instead? You should be able to go up a decent amount more on timing, doing so will also free up more injector duty and if needed, you can drop the base fuel pressure some to get more out of the single 255 Walbro.

Like instead of maybe 32psi, try 30psi and some more timing, When I tuned for MBT on mine yesterday going from 14* peak timing to 17* peak timing, that alone netted me 37whp in timing changes only. Going from 17* peak to 20* peak, it jumped me from about 440ish to 465whp. Duty cycle went from 88% to 74% with doing this.

 

[turboglenn]

Good insight and good tech info. Good to read about your setup and should make people respect getting HIGH hp from our cars. Hard earned numbers you have there. Hope you get more than 500 and get to 600 hp soon. I'd like to see How many changes you'll have to do. Bigger injectors,fuel pump, icp etc.

I think the only thing i'll have to possibly do is add nother fuel pump, i'm not even barely hitting 60% IDC when i'm rich in the top end at these levels

Very nice #'s man! ...and about the dual pumps, it was a bi*** to get my dual pumps to fit in the stock location and have everything work. But do it man, time to let her rip!

Good job!

Wow, i'd love to see pics, I was actually gonna put my 2nd in-tank outside the "hanger" using a bulkhead drilled through the tank that would allow te pump to still sit in the baffle, and just using blue push-lock -6line and hose clamps o secure the pump in the tank at the correctr height

Glen, do you think you can make more power on timing? 15* seems a little low to me. Have you found that your car does not like any more timing?

yea, i'm sure of it, i normally run much more timing

I'm impressed to see the single wally is holding up to the task! How much more do you think you can squeeze out of it safely? Is it at least rewired?

This only proves more that I made a smart investment for my goals!

The pump is only at 36 base fuel pressure, i think i'm about at the limits of the pump but haven't seen signs to indicate it yet (like having to drastically increase pulse to keep up with AFR"s or anythign like that)

Damn, i learn something new everyday. Awesome description, i like all the details you put behind that, was able to picture that real good. Great info and congrats on the numbers Glenn, im ways away from making those numbers anytime soon.

Thanks, I try and be as dscriptive as possible and there's not much that i do that i consider "secretive" or a 'trade secret" like some others who won't share maps or logs, tunig isn't magic and there's no special numbers that anyone can plug in to make a car instantly powerfull, tuning is just adjusting fuel and spark to make the best use of the combo of "hard parts" you've assembled, which a cheaper well balanced combo with a good tune will do asmuch if not way more than the guy who just buys all the latestmost expensive and hyped up part and then just tosses a generic downloaded timing map and tune on the car

Great numbers Glenn, sorry it took so long to respond but I didn't see your post until now.

A few things about the tune that you may try to put down more power. Drew already mentioned peak timing advance being low, which I agree with, too. I don't run much more myself (17* peak), however, were you able to verify on the dyno you weren't seeing any power gains by advancing it more? Also, your AFR's during spool up are fat and timing advance is, again, pretty conservative and if tweaked in the right direction would spin up the turbo sooner.

I'm a ECMLink DSMer so correct me if I'm wrong, but, from what I can tell you go WOT at 2.8k and hit full boost around 5.1k but your timing advance is dipping to 13* at 4.2k and then jumps to 14-15* as you hit peak torque and hangs there through the rest of the RPM band. If it were me I'd advance timing during spool up, dip it at 5.1k (peak torque) and then advance it back to 17-18* peak by 7k if you want to keep it conservative or you car stops making power.

Same goes for those AFR's during spool up, if you lean spool the car will pull harder and spin up the turbo faster. Right now your AFR's during spool up are fat, you're hitting your target WOT AFR (11.9 ~ 12.1:1) by 4k but your turbo isn't hitting full boost until 5.1k. See what it does leaning it out during spool up and try to hit your target AFR's around 4.8k!

In a nutshell, you're at 12:1 AFR by 4k but aren't seeing full boost until roughly 5k and your timing dips during spool up and then advances 2* by redline.

Either way, if you keep the tune as is, the car is pulling hard as hell. How did airflow look?

The reason timing is so low is becuse i blew two head gaskets on the old ARP studs at just 2 more PSI than this and so with the new L19's i decided i'd try the tpical DSM apraoch of realy low timing in the get go and advance it up as i go.. As many odf you may have seen in the past i usually run a MUCH more aggressive curve in the timing.

I can't measure airflow because i have no MAF meter, just guesses based on AFR's and HP output

Some reading i've been doing on ethanol though has thought me a LOT, if it's leaner you NEED more timing, if you're richer you don't need near as much. Also youbarely need any more advance than pump for MBT at lower RPM's (torque areas) but benefit from it greatly in cruise closed loop where things are lean and in the higher RPM's where it also pays to lean out the mixture into the mid 12's.

I have noticed that at 11.8:1 and low timing i'm making better torque than i was with 12.5:1 and more timing, and i'm less likely to pick up noise on the J&S knock system.. HOwever if I don't lean out into the 12's past6-6.5k RPM i suffer in HP and show engine noise that registers as knock

This was just a chance to pull a baseline on what i consider "a conservative baseline" that i can drive daily and beat on in any weather without worry... today is cooler but much more humid.. if it's cooler tonight adter i finish putting this kawasaki vulcan together i'm working on today i plan to get out to make some pulls and first try a few more psi (say 2 pulls at ~30psi and this same tune) then i want to lean the top out, add 2 more* or so in the upper RPM's and see how she does

THis turbo is moving a LOT more air than my previous 57 trim and such and like others have mentioned, on the higher airflow even on ethanol i can't run the type of timing numbers you can on the smaller turbos that start to run out of steam up top and need that advance to keep making power... If i DO want a lot of timing i have to start way too low and advance quickl;y which is more likely to produce real knock from the timing attack rate advancing too quickly (my engine is 9:1 and has also had the head andblock cleaned up by surfacing a couple times so my compression is actually safe to say higher than 9:1 at this point) One thing i noticed from before on the 57 trim though was that pst 19* timing i saw no gains worth trading off for the extra pressures and danger of running timing past that on even that mid-framed garrett..

Glenn, have you thought about making some more power with timing instead? You should be able to go up a decent amount more on timing, doing so will also free up more injector duty and if needed, you can drop the base fuel pressure some to get more out of the single 255 Walbro.

Like instead of maybe 32psi, try 30psi and some more timing, When I tuned for MBT on mine yesterday going from 14* peak timing to 17* peak timing, that alone netted me 37whp in timing changes only. Going from 17* peak to 20* peak, it jumped me from about 440ish to 465whp. Duty cycle went from 88% to 74% with doing this.

WOw, those are some great gains on timing at numbers that high, but sweeping for MBT as long as you can do it without knocing is the way to go..congrats onthose numbers again by the way! I am surprised that you got IDC's to drop by 6% with more timing

(but as i've been reading the leaner you run ethanol the more timing you MUST have.. i learned it actually burns faster than regular gas - but cooler - but it takes longer to get the flame propogation going, especially at leaner AFR"s so that actually makes your results make sense.. it also makes moresense of why people who run e85 rich because of fear opf lean AFR's can't get anymore timing than their normal pump gas tunes out of it.. when rich it ignites easily and burns so fast that it uses up all the oxygen in the chamber very fast, completing the burn fast, so in the torque areas, it can cause knock with rich mixtures really easily, not to mention it doestn' really NEED more timing than pump gas for MBT at those RPM's anyway (all of this according to ethanol SAE papers i've been reading,not someone elses tuning thoughts )

Oh yes, this timing was just as stated "a safe conservative baseline" something i could without worry beat daily.. having popped two HG"s in a month and changing out the stretched ARP's (whicvh is i think mostof why they were blowing easily) I haven't hadthe money to surface the head just cheked it but i don't have agood machinist straight edge that i truely trust these days) and same with the block, low money and no time (plus my pain) pulling it tosurface wasn't an option so i'm working on low timing as i test the waters of my judgement or accuracy of the checks i did on the block and head .. i just swapped to L19's keeping the same good fel-pro from the last swap, which i put on with stretched stds at the time,. so te timing numbers which are WAY WAY lower than what i normally run everywhere from 7psi and up, are just temporary while i convince myself that i'm good to go on the HG and L19's having been unable to do an surface work... timingwill be back tonight in the new pulls as long as i getthere

 

[Chicken Patty]

Yeah at that base pressure you should definitely have enough from that one pump. I made 483whp on a buddies car at 43psi of fuel pressure, on a single walbro. Only reason we didn't drop it to get more out of the pump was because car had smaller injectors. So you should be good.

 

[turboglenn]

editing posts

Yeah at that base pressure you should definitely have enough from that one pump. I made 483whp on a buddies car at 43psi of fuel pressure, on a single walbro. Only reason we didn't drop it to get more out of the pump was because car had smaller injectors. So you should be good.

interesting, were you even starting to see any signs of the pump having trouble at those pressures and at that HP level??? funny is that i was running out of fuel pump on one regular wally 255 (non hp) on 720's and 1000's back trying to push the 57 trim to the 438 i made on it (but i had dual pumps in by the time it would let me run th 438)

But being i did dual pumps and the -6 feed from tank to rail (including making th hanger equiped with larger "hard lines") I am not sure what my real limits were from either A.) single non HP 255 B.) factory lines and fuel filter (but new filters) I've been amazed at one single 255hp has been able to let me do with the combo of having -6AN lines all the way from front to back (using OEM feed as teh new return line) Although i'd like to add the 2nd intank pump i almost think i would be easier to hang on to the 2nd wally as a spare ad get an 044 that i can put in line for now and could always eliminate later being thateverything is aircraft fittings now, so patching in a pump and removing it later is just a matter of a short piece of line and a few fittings

 

[bastarddsm]

Glenn, ditch that cyclone for a SMIM. Make one out of a 4" tube and a stock 1g IM. Your losing a lot of top end.

This is 28 psi at 4500 falling to 26 at 7500. So the peak would be a bit higher yet when I fix that.

 

[turboglenn]

I have given a lot of thought top SMIM"s in the past but have usually steered clear because of loss of bottom end, i drive this car daily on the streets and for good economy i tend to barely take the thing over 4k RPM when just driving and I LOVE what the cyclone has given me. All i've ever wanted was to get into the 500WHP club and to have the broadest powerban available at that peak number.

I would like to see the one you're running though because i'vegot a half built one here that i've always wanted to finish and it still might be something i try one day in the future when i'm bored in the spring and the weather is nice enugh to switch out an intake for "someting to do" without suffering in humidity and killer heat to do it

To be honest i had gotten to 530 when i was FWD on that PTE6776RS i use to run, but the power was so peaky (from 5500 to and to keep the lad between shifts down i had to shift past 8500 on 264/272 cams *yikes*) Plus, the bottom end lacked so much that i just hated driving the car. I don't like abusing my old tired clutch because A.) i can't afford to replace it right now and B.) I try and be as easy on the car as i can during the times i'm not just blasting WOT. I'm so close to my goal at this point that i've even decided against a few other mods i had thought about to try and increase WHP. AT this point i'm not even sure i want to swap the intake cam (264) for the 272 to make a pair of 272's lik peepers did on his just because i have a good control of idle with the AC on with my stand alone with the current setup that i don't want to disrupt that. I don't have the luxery of the factory ECU's ability to sense load from the P/S and A/C to up the idle so i have to put it all in the tune to get it to rtun perfect at idle on all condiions

Right now making 300 torque at 4k RPM and making 300hp before 4500 RPM is a nice balance and makes for a broad andpowerfully pulling car when you consider that i'm over 400tq and HP by 5k RPM and pulls that way all the way up until 7500RPM (probably further but i haven'tn been revving her high these days)

 

[Chicken Patty]

Go for your goal as is man, so little is needed, another pound of boost max two and you'll be there bro.

 

[Chicken Patty]

Hey Glenn,

Was just reading back thought this info when I saw that you wanted to see pics of my dual pump setup. I'll email pics when I get home along with the log that I forgot to attach.

 

[GoCanes777]

Different turbo setup for sure I had a odd face on thanks for clearing that up from the start.

CONGRATZ! On the improvement this car has always made me wanna stick with what i got and do an awd swap and now with the numbers to go with it's just flat out beautiful!

 

[turboglenn]

Hey Glenn,

Was just reading back thought this info when I saw that you wanted to see pics of my dual pump setup. I'll email pics when I get home along with the log that I forgot to attach.

\
awesome, i apreciate it.. does your fuel gauge still read correctly? i'm kinda picky about things like that

Different turbo setup for sure I had a odd face on thanks for clearing that up from the start.

CONGRATZ! On the improvement this car has always made me wanna stick with what i got and do an awd swap and now with the numbers to go with it's just flat out beautiful!

Thanks man, it's a weird combo but iut was what iu had and could afford toi work with... I got an H1e off a guy in trade, it came with a HUIGE Supra front mount (supposed to suypport 1150hp worrth of air at 1 psi pressure drop), i also got some bosch 1600's and the 50mm H1e for my old T67 compressor p[ut on a journal bearing CHRA and t3 hotside. Being 50mm it was way too small to wanna use like it was and the turbine housing i was forced to make because the bolt on ones in T3 are 4 bolt and with my manifold that hosing hits the block.. I machined a 5 bolt T3 turbine housing to hold the holset h1e (which has hx35 turbine) and then I bought an Hx40 comp cover and 58mm 8 blade wheel with 84mm exducer (they coime in 84 and 88 i believe) ANd luckily i found that in v-band connection for the comp cover soi had everything i wanted, hx40 8 blde because it moves it's air at lower boosts, hx35 turbine in a .63 a/r housing for spool and the H1e CHRA so i don't have to mess with those damn C-clips most holsets and MHI turbos have I came out with the best holset i could get to match my power goals and the widest possible powerband at that peak HP goal of 500hp


I love my car and didn't want to sell it to go AWD and never thought i would be able to buy the stuff for the swap (hearing it was expensive and that the swap was hard ) so i bought the TRE trans way backj when i blew my first oem FWD trans. now that i've done the swap i wish i would have taken TRE's advice and bought a built AWD trans ffor FWD use becuase i'd still have an awesome trans BUt i'm on an OLD 95 GSX trans that actually shifts awesome at high RPM's (i usually shift in the mid-7k rpm range but sometimes the motor gets going FAST And i end up catching the 1-2 sahift at 8200-8300 RPM and it does fine, I have no clue on the miles on it but it makes noises from loose input and probably other bearings that are old and loose

I actually am using an ODD mix of fluids that some one told me to try because they use it in the trannies they piece together from older units for their budget race car, that's putting in 1/3rd a quart of ATF dex-III with mercron and then adding the rest as either straight GL5 or GL4 (the ATF is a friction modifier than supposeedly makes the synchros work a lot better, hell ford uses in in the old T5 trannies from thye fox body mustangs)

 

[Chicken Patty]

Just like stock.

 

[turboglenn]

fixed ,my A/C today. tried welding the old condensor but it had too many holes in it, so i got a aftermarket one from Keystone automotive, charged it with some walmart R134a (with oil inside) and now i'm back in the lap of luxery.. if it cools off enough tonight or tomorrow during hours i can get things done i'm gonna try 30psi with a little more timing and a different AFR tune as well ..

I ended up pulling timing out in the 5k range and adding 2* back in the 4-4.5k areas, then start advancing back up to 17* by 7000Rpm and holding there through out the rest of the RPM range. I could probabl;y get more timing out of it but honestly the last time i played with timing on the dyno i didn't find much gains after 18-19*, so for the higher ambient temps of summer i usually won't advance over 17* timing, i'd rather make the power with more airflow fired off later as opposed to trying to make a ton of cylinder pressure while the piston is still rising and riskjing blowing more head gaskets..

LEts hope i can get past that mystical 500hp tonight , and hopefully i can generate 450+lb-ft of torque (altho0ugh i might tune to keep the torque lower as to protect my trans a little bit.. but we'll see how i feel when the pedal's too the floor and the laptops sittin shot-gun)

The only thing i've having any real trouble with is that the trans or something is causing a weird phantomknock at times that i can't figure out. I washaving issues with the wastegate setting off the J&S but solved that, now i've got something in the right front suspension or trans making a noise i can audibly hear and watch it set off the J&S (you know when its PK because the J&S shows how much timing it's pulling fromeach cylinder and i've NEVER seen 10+* pulled from ONE cylinder and yet have none other's knocking at all )

Anyway, we'll see how it goes in the next two nights (whichever ends up being the better night for good air) The summer time i always hate beating on my car in the heat, one because the power loss from high ambient temps and second because the added stresses placedpon all the parts with the extra heating or lack of cooling that comes along with the higher temps of summer.

 

[Chicken Patty]

fixed ,my A/C today. tried welding the old condensor but it had too many holes in it, so i got a aftermarket one from Keystone automotive, charged it with some walmart R134a (with oil inside) and now i'm back in the lap of luxery.. if it cools off enough tonight or tomorrow during hours i can get things done i'm gonna try 30psi with a little more timing and a different AFR tune as well ..

I ended up pulling timing out in the 5k range and adding 2* back in the 4-4.5k areas, then start advancing back up to 17* by 7000Rpm and holding there through out the rest of the RPM range. I could probabl;y get more timing out of it but honestly the last time i played with timing on the dyno i didn't find much gains after 18-19*, so for the higher ambient temps of summer i usually won't advance over 17* timing, i'd rather make the power with more airflow fired off later as opposed to trying to make a ton of cylinder pressure while the piston is still rising and riskjing blowing more head gaskets..

LEts hope i can get past that mystical 500hp tonight , and hopefully i can generate 450+lb-ft of torque (altho0ugh i might tune to keep the torque lower as to protect my trans a little bit.. but we'll see how i feel when the pedal's too the floor and the laptops sittin shot-gun)

The only thing i've having any real trouble with is that the trans or something is causing a weird phantomknock at times that i can't figure out. I washaving issues with the wastegate setting off the J&S but solved that, now i've got something in the right front suspension or trans making a noise i can audibly hear and watch it set off the J&S (you know when its PK because the J&S shows how much timing it's pulling fromeach cylinder and i've NEVER seen 10+* pulled from ONE cylinder and yet have none other's knocking at all )

Anyway, we'll see how it goes in the next two nights (whichever ends up being the better night for good air) The summer time i always hate beating on my car in the heat, one because the power loss from high ambient temps and second because the added stresses placedpon all the parts with the extra heating or lack of cooling that comes along with the higher temps of summer.

I just did a vacuum purge and refilled mine. Cooling great till today, now my compressor only engages when it feels like it. I suspect a bad ACCU, was doing some research and it seems like that should be it. But I'm looking to fix that tomorrow. And yeah, I rather use boost to make the power but I like to keep a good balance. For my stock motor I wouldn't want to run over 30psi. I for some reason experience thr biggest gains in timing when going from 16-17*and 17-18*. From 19-20* I still gained good power, but decided to keep it conservative and stop.

Sounds like you got a good plan going for 500whp, wish you the best man, keep us posted.

 

[turboglenn]

WEll, I went tonight but had a few issues..mainly timing, I waspicking up a little knock and i wanted to re-check base timing as i had checked and re-set it a little over aweek or moreago and was unsure because the CAS was cranked all the way clockwise to get it correct. THat's really isn't definitive on my car because i have to set the amount of degrees BTDC that the trigger occurs and since i can use that to set the sync between the engines physical timing of the cAS and the electronic signal of the ECU, a simpple change of that number can really put the cas where ever i want it or make up for where ever it is, but the intake came is advanced 4.5* as well, which equals 8* at the crank as far as timing goes.

Well anyway, I know my idle timing right now is set at 15* BTDC and i didn't have the laptop power cord on me to lock the timing in place in order to set the CAS or adjust the trigger angle in the software to double check things. So i toss the light on it anyway, and when checking it with my light it was reading that i had over 37* advance at idle *WOW*,(but the WEIRD part is i could set my light anywhere from 37* to 22* and it would still be within 3-4* of reading at the "zero degree" mark on the timing cover, which could explain some things i've been bothered with since the last set of numbers were made. unfortunately, there were no other timing lights available and i came hometo get my laptop cable and try and borrow another timing light but didn't find one i could get late on a friday night

I can get back out and do some pulls tonight still but i need to find a timing light that doesn't have the advance compensation built into it (or at least a quality snap on brand unit i can trust, because mine just isn't giving my ANY confidence right now )

I did one more baseline pull at the same boost/timing/AFR and came up still in the same ball park. 484, then another immediately following while heat soaked that showed 476, so at least it's consistant, but i don't wanna hop on a hard 30+ psi pull with optimized timing prgrammed in while i don't know where the actual base timing is sitting at the moment ... it's always something with a DSM, if it's not the car it will be something related to it some how

I wish i could put a dial gauge on the piston, bring it to TDC and "zero" out the CAS manually or something, as it doesn't matter where i set the static timing, as long as i know "where" it's set my ecu will compensate for it. ANd admnit, it's gotten to be SUPER NICE weather out tonight and i know i could easily break 500 and have those bragging rights if i just had a damn timing light that was trustable *i wanna cry*

 

[Chicken Patty]

WEll, I went tonight but had a few issues..mainly timing, I waspicking up a little knock and i wanted to re-check base timing as i had checked and re-set it a little over aweek or moreago and was unsure because the CAS was cranked all the way clockwise to get it correct. THat's really isn't definitive on my car because i have to set the amount of degrees BTDC that the trigger occurs and since i can use that to set the sync between the engines physical timing of the cAS and the electronic signal of the ECU, a simpple change of that number can really put the cas where ever i want it or make up for where ever it is, but the intake came is advanced 4.5* as well, which equals 8* at the crank as far as timing goes.

Well anyway, I know my idle timing right now is set at 15* BTDC and i didn't have the laptop power cord on me to lock the timing in place in order to set the CAS or adjust the trigger angle in the software to double check things. So i toss the light on it anyway, and when checking it with my light it was reading that i had over 37* advance at idle *WOW*,(but the WEIRD part is i could set my light anywhere from 37* to 22* and it would still be within 3-4* of reading at the "zero degree" mark on the timing cover, which could explain some things i've been bothered with since the last set of numbers were made. unfortunately, there were no other timing lights available and i came hometo get my laptop cable and try and borrow another timing light but didn't find one i could get late on a friday night

I can get back out and do some pulls tonight still but i need to find a timing light that doesn't have the advance compensation built into it (or at least a quality snap on brand unit i can trust, because mine just isn't giving my ANY confidence right now )

I did one more baseline pull at the same boost/timing/AFR and came up still in the same ball park. 484, then another immediately following while heat soaked that showed 476, so at least it's consistant, but i don't wanna hop on a hard 30+ psi pull with optimized timing prgrammed in while i don't know where the actual base timing is sitting at the moment ... it's always something with a DSM, if it's not the car it will be something related to it some how

I wish i could put a dial gauge on the piston, bring it to TDC and "zero" out the CAS manually or something, as it doesn't matter where i set the static timing, as long as i know "where" it's set my ecu will compensate for it. ANd admnit, it's gotten to be SUPER NICE weather out tonight and i know i could easily break 500 and have those bragging rights if i just had a damn timing light that was trustable *i wanna cry*

Base timing is so important, so many people don't know about it. It can make it or break it for sure. I check mine periodically just for peace of mind.