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97 Eclipse GSX 'SP Going For High HP'

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eclipsemf

15+ Year Contributor
396
4
Jun 10, 2010
Glen, New Hampshire
Weill my other build it coming to an end, Im just getting the finishing touches on it, here is a link to it.
http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/dsm-build-journals/424707-97-eclipse-gsx-clean-build.html

Now on to the new build, I bought this off of a kid from my high school for 500$, He thought the transmission was gone and I said for 500$ it would be worth the parts at least. Has 113,000 miles had some bad boost leaks and exhaust leaks when I first got it.
This is what it had done when I first bought it.

Slotted Rotors
3" apexi turbo back
VRSF FMIC Kit
Real Greaddy BOV
mishimoto radiator and hoses (going on my other car though)
Stock t-25 for now
glow shift gauges (boost,volt,narrow-band)
prothane motor mounts
NGK plug wires
tubular headers
injen cold air intake
short throw shifer megan
after market 17's
tokico HP coilovers
After market cams (not sure on brand but I think they are 264s or 272s)
Along with a bunch of smaller things radio, speakers, HIDs, new brakes ect...

Here is the state of her when I first got it.
IMAG0225-1.jpg

IMAG0226-1.jpg

IMAG0227-1.jpg


After looking it over we realized that it was just the sifter bracket that was missing two bolts hence why it was stuck in fourth gear! It also only had RWD but that was just because the front CV bracket was not bolted on.. This might have caused some rear end damage but I haven't gotten it to a lift yet.

I took out the Mishimoto radiator out to put in my other car because the one is going for looks with one is just power.

My current plans are to build it up over the summer to handle a hx-35 or similar size turbo.
 
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The next thing was getting the exhaust leaks and boost leaks all fixed. It had some fitment issues with the FMIC the way the owners before had done it so I put on a spare on I had and it fit much better with the bumper and support. Next was replacing the head to exhaust manifold gasket where there was a huge leak making the car run like S**t. We found out that one of the head studs was broken once this was fixed it ran a bit better once it gets some new gas it will be back to normal. I'm going to first move up to a 16g and then to the hx-35. I got an amazing deal on a open dump so I decided to throw that on the ole t-25 for now.

IMAG0251.jpg

IMAG0265.jpg


It obviously didn't make a huge difference in power but the sound of the exhaust is a great tone and cant wait to get it on a bigger turbo.

Here is some of the progress with everything taken out nothing much I didn't think I was going to be making a blog so I didnt take many pictures.
IMAG0248.jpg


My next project was to get a push button start system going with two flip switches and a push button to start it.

IMAG0267.jpg


This is what I have so far and they both work flawlessly, but the push button is not working yet. I need a relay so I can get enough power to it to turn the car over.

IMAG0271.jpg


This is one of my buddies cars jumping mine just thought it was a sick picture that I should throw in.


Right now I have an AFPR to throw on and I going to start getting set up for DSMlink, already have the eprom ECU and cable just need a V3 ship and we will be good to go. I also have 550 injectors to start the 16g off until I can build everything up a bit more. I have a ton of more things to go on it but I cant think of right now, I will update again tomorrow with some more detail on it an what the build will actually consist off.

Stay tuned!
 
For $500, you STOLE( and i mean S-T-O-L-E) that shit. Awesome car. If it was running rwd, it could have damaged the trans, the viscous coupler, and or center diff. Thats dangerous. Also if the front driveshafts were removed, how was oil staying in? That part sounds scarey! However put it together, and see how it drives. Hopefully it wasnt beaten up. Im jealous, youve got an easy 2-4000 in parts right there.
 
The oil stayed in because the shafts were in, They just weren't seated due to the axle bracket had fallen off (because it was rigged on). We are taking the bracket off and be doing it right, rear end might have suffered but I think its due able for now. We've driven it around it is actually pretty smooth.
 
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im a little confused on what you mean. If the axles were in the trans(they will NOT come out with the trans in and suspension assembled), then they were driving. Do you mean the mount that holds the trans to the frame?

either way, great looking car, and glad you got it driving again ;)
 
im a little confused on what you mean. If the axles were in the trans(they will NOT come out with the trans in and suspension assembled), then they were driving. Do you mean the mount that holds the trans to the frame?

either way, great looking car, and glad you got it driving again ;)



The axles were in but the bracket on the back of the block that hold that sides shaft on tight was not on so i was just freely sniping.
 
I'm finally getting some progress on this build and I am changing it up to see how far I can go for 3K including the price of the car! I realize it might not seem like I will make it far but I wheel and deal until I can get it to where I want! I will NOT be using cheap ways out of things, ie ebay, except for things I have testes and trust myself. Plans have changed a lot on this car but this is how its going from now on.

NEEDED
880 injectors
Dsm link v3 for 2g
ARP main studs 60$
BSE kit 60$
OEM Timing belt 83$
ARP Head studs and cosmetic HG 198$
ARP Rod kit 40$
Turbo rebuild kit 60$
OEM TOB 32$
Revised 3g lifters 99$
Oil Return kit 75$
Gasket kit 100$
ALC Rod and main bearing set 100$
Crank shaft spacer for BSE 7$

I also need to figure out the rest of my head and what I want to run which will add a bit to the cost. I'm going run stock crank, rods and piston set up.

WANT
Energy shifter bushing kit 11$
Shifter Cable bushings 30$

This are all retail prices and I will try to trade for some of them or get them new second hand to save a few $ but this should have me near the 3k mark and will end the run for this summer. Here are some pics of the progress.


Here's the PTE compared to the t-25!
IMAG0299-1.jpg


Starting to get the 7bolt pulled out
IMAG0313.jpg

Closer!
IMAG0316.jpg

The 7bolt should be pulled next week when I get some more time to detach the shafts.

IMAG0317.jpg

IMAG0321.jpg


Doing some weight reduction taking out all the sound material and any unneeded brackets and luxuries
IMAG0306.jpg

Here is the 6bolt that I will be rebuilding
IMAG0322.jpg

All the parts from the 6bolt!
IMAG0323.jpg


That where it stands now I will have many more updated in this coming week with the final tear down of the 6bolt and the pulling of the 7bolt.

let me know if you have any suggestions!
 
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I like the custom single DIN mount for the turbo timer, howd you make that!? Regard your DSM looks great!
 
I like the custom single DIN mount for the turbo timer, howd you make that!? Regard your DSM looks great!

Thank you! its actually something my buddy made with the turbo timer part. it is just supported with a small metal plate in the back and the front was just black epoxy. Im not sure where the single din thing came from though.
 
Well plans changed yet again!the 7bolt I had in it was already built so I am going to see how far I can go with it, arp head studs mirror finished on head an block with mls. For the head Im going with some 275 cams from Allen over at SIM and will also have evo 8 S&R.

So far I have tried an engine bay shave and it did not come out as well as I hopped because I ran very short on time where the car has to be up and running in under 2 weeks, I just a quick spray of the engine bay and did ABS delete, Power steering tuck and cruise delete.

I also rebuilt my PTE 3431E and it came out really nice!
IMAG0366.jpg

IMAG0371.jpg


Motor is out
IMAG0343.jpg


Prep
IMAG0357.jpg

Primed
IMAG0359.jpg

First coat
IMAG0360.jpg
 
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I just got the final parts ordered for this build! I am hoping to have the motor finished by the end of the week and put back in the car by Saturday!

I just bought a stage 4 xtd unsprung clutch, dsm link v3 and a ned drivers side axle, I have 2 trades that should be in soon with a light weight flywheel and a set of 1000cc injectors to finish the parts off.

My small bit of progress today!

I got the old S&R out waiting to put the evo 8 beehives in tomorrow and have the cams to follow on Wednesday
IMAG0373.jpg

IMAG0374.jpg

I also finished my turbo I got the oil feed and my new -10An drain line in
IMAG0372.jpg


Thats all today will have some more tomorrow when the evo S&R go in!
 
I got the S&R in and the 275 Cams in along with most of the motor built back up!

here are 2 mock of pictures, need to get some new exhaust studs and find my intake manifold bolts and time it and she will be ready to drop back in.
IMAG0378.jpg

IMAG0377.jpg
 
Just a quick update with my fuel pump the bosch 040. It didnt fit in the tank so I had to custom fit it.

Here's what I came up with...
IMAG0382.jpg


I had to drill out the normal line that comes to the FP, this is where I pushed the top 2" of the Bosch out and just hose clamped it to the side. Looks kinda sketchy but I think it will work out!

Look for another update tomorrow! With the final pic of the motor and everything on for good!
 
ooh ok LOL well I'm in the same boat, its been 4 weeks of having my engine bay down to bare metal and I need to get it done right now. I'm looking to go the a rubberized spray like your idea was, after seeing how tkstoygsx's box liner spray job went I think I'm going to give that a shot and see what happens.
Thanks for the quick answer man, good luck on the build, I'll be keeping tabs on it. :hellyeah:
 
Today I got all the rest of the motor done!!!!!

IMAG0383.jpg


IMAG0384.jpg


I just need to finish up the interior and put the motor in! The dump tube will eventually be heading out the side of bumper but I want to make sure everything runs good before I jump on that.
 
I would so something about your oil drain line too, looks very excessive. Oh and your dumptube could probably be extended a bit lower to avoid hot exhaust gasses from hitting your intercooler pipe or anything else in that area.
 
I would so something about your oil drain line too, looks very excessive. Oh and your dumptube could probably be extended a bit lower to avoid hot exhaust gasses from hitting your intercooler pipe or anything else in that area.


The oil drain was a screw up at an auto parts store, It is a hair long but the oil will drain fine so Im not worried right now, I dont have the 23$ for a new fitting to be pressed on either. As for the dump tube it will be running out the side of the bumper but I want to make sure everything runs a works fine first. I have a new clutch coming in so I wont be seeing boost for atleast 500 miles.
 
Erggg to start off this is what happens when you leave your seats in your shed for a month!
IMAG0386.jpg


I havent updated this in a while but it has come along way!

IMAG0387.jpg

Here is the stage 4 xtd clutch brand new with a act streelight flywheel
IMAG0389.jpg

all bolted up


Interior is a mess! trying to get all the gauges wired up
IMAG0394.jpg

IMAG0395.jpg


The custom center gauge cluster that me and a buddy made. The switches are going to be for ignition and the center will be for my dual stage boost controller.

IMAG0393.jpg


And here is the engine bay...
IMAG0396.jpg


It was all back together and SHE RAN! The 275 cams sounded really aggressive and everything ran nicely! Then I went to do a BLT... I had leaks from every where and have been tracking them down for almost a week! I have it down to the throttle body area but I cant seem to find where it is coming from even with everything there being rebuilt with new gaskets. That's the only thing holding me back from driving it now and I hope to have it finished very soon so I can take it to the track before I leave for school!
 
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