SERIOUS axle problems

[95blackGsTurbo]

I went in to have an axle replaced this week. $710.10 later I got my car back. First time in the guys 40 years of working on imports, domestics, you name it, he saw an axle LITERALLY rust to the spindle and hub. They tired pressing it out with a 30 ton press and heated it up til it glowed red. NOTHING. ALWAYS a good idea to replace them and get them checked. He said that this has happened over a course of about 1-2 and 1/2 years. I would recommend making sure that you check to see the the axle will come out. Otherwise its SPENDY. Just a warning.

 

[dave99gst]

hahah -- it takes a BFH to get them out .. man.. the axel it self ,only costs about 80 bucks (after core return) he made alot of profit off you

 

[95blackGsTurbo]

You cant get the axle out, i watched them try and press it with 30 tons of pressure, so i bought a new axle instead of used and had to get a new spindle and wheels bearings and all that good stuff. Im a mechanic and I VERY RARLY take my cars in and i knew what was all wrong and what it was gonna cost and trust me that was very cheap. The only expensive thing was labor on it.

 

[leet]

Lol sounds it got curbed, and bent... They usually will come out with a BFH

 

[95blackGsTurbo]

it didnt get bent at all, its RUSTED in there

 

[ASZRAEL1266]

When i swaped to my 4 bolt rear that end cups were a pita to get out. I have to get a harmonic balancer puller to get that sucker off and still have to beat it with a hammer.

 

[95blackGsTurbo]

like i said before a parts store applied 30 TONS (60.000 pounds) of pressure on the axle and it didnt budge, i was just wondering if anyone ever ran into this serious of a problem before. BTW an average person swinging a 20 pound sledge can only induce 3 tons of pressure so yea... dont think hitting it would help.

 

[SlowSpyder]

actually this happened to me, my driverside axle was just completely rusted in the hub. I tried torching it, beating on it with a sledge hammer then I put it on the press and yes I tried 30 tons and the only thing that happened was that the spindle started to bend. The only way to fix this is that you need to get a nex axle, hub with the wheel studes pressed in and a whole new spindle.

 

[Turbo Monk3y]

wow something similar is going on right now as im trying to take my axel out ... The 34mm big nut that holds the axel on at the end of the hub is rusted i got a breaker bar and was jumping up and down on it and nothing happend and its been drowned in multiple bottles of metal penatrent so i just decided to take the axel out from the transmission instead its easier but i havent found a way to get the green cup axel part out of the tranny yet it sucks

 

[95blackGsTurbo]

Yea its not gonna come out and its not very cheap to fix, im doing both sides tough just to be causious.

 

[95blackGsTurbo]

####ING AWESOME. I just received a letter in the mail from Mitsubishi saying that the lower ball joint recall of April 2001! was never performed on my car. even though I was SPECIFICALLY told but the previous owner it was. Come to find out he was to lazy to get it done. SO.. I talked to his parents and they are gonna make him repay me the $710.00 that it cost me to get all this fixed. Anyone else get one of these letters in the mail.

 

[Peatry85]

Thats great, i had the same problem, had to take back many rachetes cuz the breaker bar would break the rachete before it would move the axel nut. As with the rest of u i tried all the other stuff too, it sucks but at least we dont own honda's.

 

[PogiTSI]

hmmm, I had a hella problem with my axle nut also, use some Pb blaster, and that bi*** flew off.

 

[c5chris]

I have a torn CV Boot on the driver's side and I can attest to how hard that 32mm castle nut was to remove. I sprayed it with PB Blaster and waited overnight. The next day I was struggling with a breaker bar while somebody presses on the brakes. I even stood on the breaker bar and my socket wrench just disengaged.

I used an impact wrench, it was done in less than a minute, even without anybody pressing the brake pedal.

 

[leet]

Originally posted by c5chris
I have a torn CV Boot on the driver's side and I can attest to how hard that 32mm castle nut was to remove. I sprayed it with PB Blaster and waited overnight. The next day I was struggling with a breaker bar while somebody presses on the brakes. I even stood on the breaker bar and my socket wrench just disengaged.

I used an impact wrench, it was done in less than a minute, even without anybody pressing the brake pedal.

I use impacts for those. Goes much quicker.

 

[Peatry85]

Im with 95bLaCkGsTuRbO, I used Pb blaster, fire, this stuff that gaurenteed to take any nut off, And an air powered impact. Nothing. It literally looked like it was welded on but i got my bro in law to use a fire torch at his work and he cut it off.

 

[Staytuned]

I ran into the same problem as you did when doing a bushing swap in my car. The splines on the axle were rust welded in the hub and I could not get it to budge. I ended up taking the axle apart at the outer end and then taking that piece to a shop to have it pressed out. No BFH would work for me. I also tried a gear puller (5 ton) and that still didn't work.

 

[hpycoconut]

Ack, Just got a call that my axle was seized in the hub

I was going to do driver too as preventive maint, but now I may just keep the fresh hub in the parts box

 

[TalonR]

wow.....my car has been in the salted roads of MN most of its life.....i just went to change my axles and they popped right off....hmmm....about 7 hours total and I had axles and ball joints finished.....all for about 200 dollars

 

[Lancer099]

All I wanted to do was replace my driver side axle/halfshaft. Yeah, I ran into the rust weld thing, too. I got the hub nut off fine, but the spindle is rust welded to the hub bearing and the hub bearing is rust welded to the axle. I had to take out the spindle assembly with brake caliper bracket and the axle because it was rust welded to itself. When taking off the control arm suspension parts, I had to use a fork and hammer. That ####ed up my boots really bad. Now, I'm in the process of looking at salvage yards/buying new parts to repair this. It really sucks because new parts are costing more than $500 and I couldn't find a new spindle. I'm going to go to the salvage yard and get the minimum parts to fix the current problem and fix the other suspension parts when I get them all.

 

[Lancer099]

I was wondering, when I took off the ball joints using the separator fork, the boots went to hell. Is there a way to get the ball joints off without damaging the boots? They were fairly stuck in there, does anyone have an idea or have they done this before and not messed up their boots?