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Best Clutch for 300hp goal

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TampaBlunt

Probationary Member
2
0
Oct 29, 2003
Tampa,
I heard that ACT were the best if so which number 2100, 2600, or 2900. How are the RAM clutches. I don't want something stiff but I need the holding power. Thanks, Craig
 
2100 or 2600. The 2100 has held up in my car pretty good so far (about a year). Depends on what you normally do w/ the car. If you only race once a year, don't increase the chance of CW and get the 2100. If you plan on making a race/street car, get a 2600.
 
I am looking for a clutch...i was wondering what the best clutch for the money is...i want something relatively cheap but not a piece of crap that i am gonna explode in a week...any help would be greatly appreciated..prices and maybe where to buy from would help too!!

Thanks
Chris
 
I just ordered up a act 2600 tonight! I read reviews and forums up the ass, and figured out that is was the best for me. I have a 90 gsx thats ready to tear up some ass! I had a centerforce in it before, but after a couple good launches it got torn up. Gave after around 8k miles. Centerforces are quite a bit less then ACT's but if you want quality, its well worth the extra 70 bucks. There is also the 2100 ACT wich has quite a bit less holding power, but still wamps over the stock one. If you have a lightly modified TSI then that might be the choice for you. But if you plan on makeing serious HP then go with the 2600. Its worth the investment to spend a little extra once then to reaplace it with a whole new cluch in a year! I would say don't go with anything but an ACT. Thats just my opinon. Wait for some more post, and I'll be they say the same thing.
 
I like the 2600, but that may be overkill (depending on the power level you desire.)
 
http://www.dsmparts.com/act_clutches.htm

Heres a selection of the most popular clutchs for our cars, there well known for high performance and streight for turbo aplications...

yep as you can see they are not cheap, but is the best bang for the buck, you figure you got to take the tranny down and do the whole replacing thing (or maybe pay for someone to do it) so having this in mind you definetaly dont want to do this every month... so the best thing you can do is save up for a good clutch and avoid more problem$$ down the road.

You have a TSI AWD right... ACT 2600 is the best choice, a little harder than stock on the pedal, but you get use to it. believe me its worth it.
 
Well, I have exceeded the limits my stock clutch can handle. It is brand new, with only like 1,500 miles on it, but the mods on the engine are even newer! :thumb:

I've read up on a few threads about clutches, and I get mixed feelings. So I wanted some fresh thoughts on what the current "clutch to have" is.

In the near future I expect to have around 400 hp. My car is a daily driver and is fwd. My mods list is recently updated so you can check that out if it helps. Any opinions would be greatly appreciated.
 
ryanman said:
ACT2100 with street disk is my choice on fwd DSM's.

agreed. if you're going to be doing a lot of launching and heavy racing, get the ACT2600 instead then
 
Nahh, I have a 2.3 stroker with over 300hp and 345tq and Ive had my 2100 in my car this whole past year along with being at the track every weekend and multiple abuse sessions on the streets around Denver and now down here in Corpus and my 2100 clutch is just fine. I wouldn't put a 2600 in a fwd car unless it's just an all out track car but even then I'd find something else that's a little easier to control off the line.
 
Wondering where the best, cheapest place to buy a ACT 2100 series clutch or any other slightly tuffer then stock clutches could be found? Look in vehicle profile for info on car.

Thks
 
I have an Exedy stage2 ceramic clutch and it chatters really bad unless i rev it high on 1st gear then it goes smooth. I can't launch cus of this problem so I'm going to redo my clutch and i just need suggestions on what's the best clutch for 2g fwd... I'm considering ACT2600 pro disk or Centerforce dual friction. I have a ACT flywheel just so you guys know. I know I won't have the chatter problem with these clutches but any suggestions will help me out before I buy a clutch. I will boost 20psi or a bit more. Thanks
-Luis
 
Pure ceramic clutches will always chatter unless you engage really on low RPM or high rpm slipping it (like 3000rpms) The problem with ceramic clutches is that its not meant to slip. It wears down quicker that way. Its meant for basically pure race or little street. What usually helps is the enertia of the flywheel but in your case you have a lightened one. Even lighter is the FWD one. I actually have a Twin friction disk from Exedy that enables me to have the strength of a ceramic puck style clutch and the smooth Street style clutch. The Ceramic side (Puck style with 8 pucks) "Bites" on the flywheel while the street side (Organic) slides onto the pressure plate. The tranny needs to slipp for smooth engagement so thats why this works for street setups. I have a lightened stock flywheel and still have no problems with chatter. Though I can make it chatter by engaging quicker. What is the pressure plate rated clamping force that you have.
I have 1940lbs PP. Let me know.
 
GreddyGst said:
I have an Exedy stage2 ceramic clutch and it chatters really bad unless i rev it high on 1st gear then it goes smooth. I can't launch cus of this problem -Luis
Heres a quote from EXEDY...
"With any cerametallic clutch system, there will be some compromise of start up driveability as compared to a stock clutch (chatter on light throttle, low rpm start up). This characteristic is generally felt to be acceptable in modified performance cars. Drivers of cerametallic clutches on the street should be warned not to "ride the clutch" to try to reduce the chatter as this will greatly increase the wear"
 
whoa thats scary, i hate exedy...so i guess i need to switch it as soon as possible. i might stick to act2600 pro disk sense i have a act flywheel. thanks for the info tarantula. anything else i need to know?
 
Heres more...
Quote:
There are two schools of thought concerning upgraded clutches. Some manufacturers use a more aggressive face material for better grip. Others go with a stronger pressure plate, which offers more clamping force. In general, more aggressive material wears into the pressure plate and flywheel a bit quicker, while heavier pressure plates make a clutch harder to modulate and drive in traffic. All clutches are a compromise between these two schools of thought. As you might expect, the stock clutch has a weak pressure plate _and_ with a non-agressive disk.
Well since crankwalk is an issue with 7 Bolt DSM's Than I think that I might always chose an agressive material rather than stonger or more clamping force. Thats the case with the clutch disk I have installed, it may wear into the flywheel (Ceremetallic), but the other side does the same as a regular clutch (Organic)so it won't wear down the pressure plate. Maybe thats good in my case. I got best of both. Though I know its not certain as to the cause of the dreaded "Crankwalk" but most people agree that stronger pressure on the crank is one probable cause. Just my .02 cents as to something we might want to think about if we want to try and prevent it and one of the steps towards prevention (in our minds) is not to get a stronger pressure plate Clutch.
 
After reading some of the stuff in the hangout about how ACT has failed on a lot of people i wanted to know what is the most reliable clutch and flywheel for our cars? I am going to be rebuilding the 6 bolt in a few months and most likely a shep tranny. I was originally going to go with a ACT clutch, but the results of that thread made me think twice. I'm doing be doing a set up that puts me into the low 12s high 11s, 20g or 50 trim, built block, all supporting mods. But which clutch is best?
 
I thought ACT clutches failing was a thing of the past. The last time I heard about problems with them was 3 years ago. Ive ran a 2600 for 3 years now and no problems making low 12 second passes. The only other brand I would consider is possibly a spec, it seems people really like those.
 
I bought a Spec Stage III b/c I didn't want the Act to fail. I can't really comment on it b/c I can't seem to get the thing to disengage.
 
I currently run a fidanza awd flywheel (7 bolt) <=- I DONT WANNA HEar it i dont have crankwalk

and i run clutchmasters fx500 i have no problem with my clutch except a little chatter but its a champ i bang gears and dump the clutch sometimes when i get over anxious at the track its held up for 2 years now
 
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