how much power is the stock 2G drivetrain good for?

[idt512]

how much hp before strengthening internal tranny parts, driveshafts, CV joints... ? for FWD and /or AWD

 

[FallouT]

im no expert, but

i believe it depends on how you drive. if your hammer#### your tranny everyday it wont last stock. but if you take it easy, i assume it can take some power. how much, im not sure. hard launches and downshifts will kill a tranny quicklike, that goes for most any car

 

[loreak]

i believe the rear ends are good for 1.6+ 60 foots, anything below and you start snapping axles, if your dumping the clutch you will probably blow your center dif out first, wheel hop will kill your tranny in a heartbeat

 

[1gentalonfan]

whats the max power a 1g awd system will handle. i have plans for big power and need to know whats a must to upgrade in the drivetrain. im sending my tranny into john shepherd to be rebuilt and get the center diff welded and a lsd put in the front but other than that is anything else absolutely needed for say like 500 whp

 

[Old Mitsu Tech]

Well, after you get the 500 hp, you will probably be telling others what you broke and how often it broke. While these cars will make a tremendous amount of horse power, you are after all developing it in a small frame. Axles, drive shafts, clutches, etc, will all be found to need to be replaced sooner or later. Depending on your driving habits. If you are racing, it will be more often. Casual or less severe driving will yield longer lasting parts of a lesser strength.

Not much help, but nevertheless the truth.

 

[1gentalonfan]

clutch is going in before any other mods and i wont be launching at 5k and i wont be racing more than the occasional musclehead i see but otherwise boost will be set down around 14 or 15 for daily driving

 

[crazy_skier]

yes you can have your boost around 14-15, but if you have the right set-up and a big enough turbo etc that can still be 300-400 lbs. torque and that is whats going to do more damage than the horsepower alone. What are your plans engine/head/cam/and turbo wise so that we can get a better idea. If you are breaking 400awhp I would highly reccomend upgrading to some driveshaft shop axles, maybe a new driveshaft, and for sure an lsd rear, and probally 4 gear spyder center diff. Thats me looking to cover everything though, since I like the weak point in my drivetran to be the tires and if your to worried run some high performance all seasons, yes it sounds lame but you can do all wheel burn outs all the time, or just break them loose instead of binding up the drivetran. Good luck on the build!

 

[turboglenn]

You'll be fine at 14-15 PSI on daily driving.. Now launching at that could be dangerous though. Drivetrain breakage is all in intitial peak load ( so to speak) basically how much power hits it and how fast. Between gears here's lag or at least the bit it takes from flat shift to get back into normal advance and feul delivery, so that saves the tranny between gears ( to a point). But it's all in how you launch, If you're willing to sacrifice the clutch and slip it a little on the launch, then you should be fine with a Shep trans. The next things to watch for with that trans would be Cv shafts.

 

[1gentalonfan]

my build plans are a 57 trim bb turbo with a tubular mani, o2 housing ext. wg, 3 inch exhaust, 2.3 stroker with 9:1 comp, port and polish head with oversized valve, higher lift cams, gm maf and maft, tranny rebuilt by john shepherd as mentioned with a welded center diffy, and a lsd front diffy, act 2900 clutch with street disc, act exact flywheel, big front mount ic, 850cc injectors, 255 walboro, aem fuel rail and pressure regulator, dsm link, cryo2 fuel line cooler and ic cooler, and a few other things i know im forgetting along with some other susp upgrades and brakes all the necessities

 

[GVR4592]

Baby steps...

 

[1gentalonfan]

no way ive been looking into this since my first talon i had that was just a nt 4g63 and ive got like 6k to dump in this and i want a car that i smoke pretty much anything on the road in especially considering its a 1g so its a sleeper so i can laugh at them even harder because they were stupid and cocky

 

[sbengineering]

my build plans are a 57 trim bb turbo with a tubular mani, o2 housing ext. wg, 3 inch exhaust, 2.3 stroker with 9:1 comp, port and polish head with oversized valve, higher lift cams, gm maf and maft, tranny rebuilt by john shepherd as mentioned with a welded center diffy, and a lsd front diffy, act 2900 clutch with street disc, act exact flywheel, big front mount ic, 850cc injectors, 255 walboro, aem fuel rail and pressure regulator, dsm link, cryo2 fuel line cooler and ic cooler, and a few other things i know im forgetting along with some other susp upgrades and brakes all the necessities

You have left out a lot of stuff. and some of the stuff you have listed should be left out (i.e. aem fuel rail). and why the welded center dif.?

 

[1gentalonfan]

i dont want to deal with any diffy that may break and its cheaper but i know i left some out

 

[GVR4592]

I can go into detail if you want, but your mod list is seriously flawed for your goals.

 

[erald01]

keep in mind that 1g transmissions do go bad easily, but it should be able to hold around 375-400 hp without any problem if you know how to launch it. I dont know about 500hp though. Change all the powertain fluids, before you do any crazy launches.

 

[1gentalonfan]

well i dont usually launch i let out kinda fast at 2k and can it from there and still smoke people around here with how my car is now but its not fast enough but what is flawed about my setup id love some criticism ive never actually done the modding myself to a dsm so any suggestions are more than welcome

 

[crazy_skier]

your going to be less likely to break stuff with a 4 spyder diff over a welded, and you should look into the south bend clutch kevlar sprung disk.. in my opinion it is way better than the act disk and it holds up amazing to launches. also, the oem fuel rail is more than plenty for your goals, and I would reccomend spending the money that you would have used on the gm/maf on something else... maybe look into getting gauges and an egt probe with wideband... Also, I would look into methanol injection before the cyro fuel cooler.

 

[1gentalonfan]

ya i was lookin at methanol too but i want to be able to vent my bov so i need the gm maf plus the 1g maf sucks balls and the intake i want wont work with it either and ya i kinda realized the fuel rail is a waste of money right now but i plan on buying an egt and wideband too

 

[crazy_skier]

I would still reccomend agaist the gm/maf. That is close to $500 that you could have to spend on other stuff... if your using link just run an evo or 2G maf. With the vented bov, I had a vented ssqv on for a long ass time since my intake didnt have the port, and I think my car stalled on me once. I know that it was bad and all but you can still have your car run quite well with a vented bov. Look at my parts list, the bov is still vented (I want to fix it) and I dont have any issues with stalling, but I also have my idle around 1000 rpms because of my cams. I would spend a little more time researching all the parts that you need for your build up so that you dont have a weak point.