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Drivetrain Tech Transmission, clutch, flywheel, driveshaft, gears, differentials, transfer case, shifter, etc.

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Old 04-19-2003, 02:24 PM   #1 (permalink)
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Review, rebuilt tranny, FIdanza Flywheel, eClutchmasters clutch, GVR4 1st gear, etc

So I FINALLY got my DSM back. My tranny took a dump so this is what i have replaced.


1/2-3/4 Hub and sleeve
1/2-3/4 Shift forks
All new seals, snap rings, Trash Magnet
GVR4 1st gear
GVR4 Input shaft
New revers gear
ALL new synchros, 1-reverse
Synchroshift
eClutchmasters 2500 pound pressure plate
eClutchmaster SPRUNG six puck
Fidanza Flywheel
Bearings

So when we finally opened teh tranny, it looked as if i needed a 1/2 hub and sleeve, my 3/4 was TOAST and the fork was broken as well. SO MUCH crap in there from the oil never being changed, it was a sin, the trash magnet was no longer visable as it had so much aluminum in it.

THE GVR4 input shaft goes right in but you need to SHIM it properly or BOOM. A shim is a spacer put in with the bushings to space it out, it is measured to the .001 and needs to be acurate or will dance around teh block and die. You need a micometer to measure it and a press to insert it, a bitch but it went in no problem.


All bolted up and ready to go, the CLUCtch needed to be adjusted, but isn't NEARLY as hard on the left foot as a ACT 2600. It does allow a little slip but not much, it will chatter. Does not need a break in, and will just clamp down like a Pit Bull, car jerks in every gear, I love this clucth and IMHO it is streetable and very strong. The springs make a lot of noise (sprung 6-puck) under deceleration, bvut it should go away and gets rid of the vibration in the tranny.


The fidanza is a GOD SEND, what a great idea. Not only is it top quality, but now my car revs like a bike. BOOST DOES IN FACT COME ON WAY EARILER, another 500RPMS of usable boost, car is also easier to mover around, pulls so much faster in a strait line. EASY to drive around with, and I would not have it any other way. A GREAT idea for AWD cars.

The GVR$ gace me exactly 5mph extra, nothing speacial but it does make a difference. With stock I hit 28MPH, so I am at about 33-34 mph before I shift at 7000. Car can be in 1st gear a little long, launching is more effective, all an all, if you have the extra cash, spring for it, if not, don't worry about it.

My car is running great, granted it does jerk a lot more as that clucth just grabs, I am most impressed with the fidanza, people should just get it, car pulls so much better, faster spoolup and the turbo just loves it.


any questions?
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Old 04-19-2003, 02:32 PM   #2 (permalink)
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This is what I mean for the puck sound.

"Also most puck clutches have a solid hub center that will contribute to horrible coast down gear noise (worse in an AWD)."

I won't deny that there is a sound, it is spring like this...

Sprung Six Puck


I should go away in time, but not all do, i will update
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Old 04-20-2003, 11:20 AM   #3 (permalink)
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Is the spring 6 puck disc lighter than a full face sprung disc? I thought the advantage to going with a unsprung puck disc was that it was lighter and allows for quicker shifts.


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Old 04-20-2003, 12:40 PM   #4 (permalink)
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How much did the setup run you?
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Old 04-20-2003, 12:54 PM   #5 (permalink)
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There is really no point in even trying to run a clutch disk that is not "sprung." You will continue to break the transmission. Look at John Shepherd's car, he runs well into the 9's and he still uses a street disk. That should say alot in itself. I can tell you from personal experience that it is a bad idea. The car will be a bitch to drive around town, and you will get tons of clutch chatter. I was running an ACT 6-puck disk, and i lost 3,4,5,and R one night trying to launch the car (on a fresh rebuild). Something has to give a little with that AWD system, and i would rather my clutch slip a little bit than blow up a tranny.
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Old 04-20-2003, 08:19 PM   #6 (permalink)
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Believe it or not the sPRUNG 6-pUCK can be slipped, not NEARLY as easilly as the Stocker but it will slip. I have to get the RPM's higher then 3000 or it will chatter, but this clutch is great, very little pedal effort compaired to a 2600, holds 2500 so it was worth it. The springs do make noise while downshifting, especially at 3000 RPM's

cost me $1,500 including labor.
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Old 04-20-2003, 09:15 PM   #7 (permalink)
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umiami80,

Ok so what year input shaft did you use and do you have the part number? You didnt have to change your intermediate to match up with the input shaft? Your tranny is a 95, right?

I want to put the later intermediate in so I can have the double synchros but I have to replace my input so I might as well put the GVR4 input in. What do you think? Any advice?
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Old 04-20-2003, 09:43 PM   #8 (permalink)
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You only have too replace the input shaft, the intermediate shaft can stay, no problem. My tranny is a 1995. THE GVR4 gives you soem help, but it isn't mind boggling, but I doo feel a difference, and you do have to launch harder, you get into the 30's as opposed to the late 20's.


If you got the money, go for the TRE Speck 1st gear, get a GS-t 5th gear, and change your shift rails to get EVO forks, DO NOT use the EVO forks with the Nylon inserts, no no no no, make sure they are machined and do not have the Nylon inserts, they will fall off.


It is simply a GVR4 input shaft and gear, bought from TRE< can be bought from Mitsu as well. YOU WILL NEED Custm shims, once you pull out the shaft and put it back in, you will need shims (spacers for the bushings, they are measured out with a Micrometer.) or it will WALK around your tranny and die.
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